Size of ball joint hole in center link.

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dusterbnb

dusterbnb

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I was wondering if anyone knows the reem size to use for the center link for the ball joint?


I need more room under the pan on my project and would like to use the 73 and up pitman and idler arm on my 72 dart with the 72 center link, because it has a bigger curve to it than the 73 and up one has, and would drop the center link as far as possible.

Correct me if I'm wrong. I figure if I have the hole for the pitman and idler up and have them retaped from the top so they would fit on the 73 and new pitman and idler arms.
 
Not sure what size it is, but Speedway Motors sells the correct reamer.
 
dusterbnb said:
Ok why not then?
Click to expand...

For one thing the tapers on the early vs late center links are opposite each other. That means on your "new" link, the intended "small" end of the taper is already "big." Other than welding / brazing up the hole and re-boring it, I don't know how you would deal with that

73/ later, the pitman / idler studs point DOWN

attachment.php


72/ earlier, the pitman / idler studs point UPhttp://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714612653&stc=1&d=1366597817[/img]

 
so to do this he would have to change everything... K frame and all right?
67Dart273 said:
For one thing the tapers on the early vs late center links are opposite each other. That means on your "new" link, the intended "small" end of the taper is already "big." Other than welding / brazing up the hole and re-boring it, I don't know how you would deal with that

73/ later, the pitman / idler studs point DOWN

attachment.php


72/ earlier, the pitman / idler studs point UPhttp://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php?attachmentid=1714612653&stc=1&d=1366597817[/img]

quote]
Click to expand...
 
more directly to the issue here - what engine and pan are you using? this stuff has been sussed out for years - it sounds like you have wrong parts...
 
67Dart273 said:
For one thing the tapers on the early vs late center links are opposite each other. That means on your "new" link, the intended "small" end of the taper is already "big." Other than welding / brazing up the hole and re-boring it, I don't know how you would deal with that

73/ later, the pitman / idler studs point DOWN

attachment.php


72/ earlier, the pitman / idler studs point UPhttp://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachment.php? It attachmentid=1714612653&stc=1&d=1366597817[/img]

[/quote]


Sorry if I was confusing that way I wrote that up earlier.

The idea was.... I have a 72 dart with a 72 center link. I was going to have the pitman and idler arm holes welded up and retap them from the opposit side. So, that when I installed the 73 style pitman and idler arm, the bores in my currant center link would except them in the opposite direction, to give me more clearance.

I'm am installing a 4bt out of a bread truck into it and I'm trying to get it low enough to not have to chop into the floor to much for the trans to fit.


[url]http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=331758&highlight=4bt+dart[/url]

If the link works that's where I'm at so far.
Click to expand...
 
I see. "I guess" as long as you are careful to do a "good fit" then this would work OK. I'm no expert on stuff like tapered reamers. That is what you would need. I also have no idea what angle you would want.

Here's the thing, tho...........

I don't know what mixing those parts would do to the POSITION of the center link, vertically, when you rework it. You may very well severely change the bump steer properties of the vehicle.
 
67Dart273 said:
I see. "I guess" as long as you are careful to do a "good fit" then this would work OK. I'm no expert on stuff like tapered reamers. That is what you would need. I also have no idea what angle you would want.

Here's the thing, tho...........

I don't know what mixing those parts would do to the POSITION of the center link, vertically, when you rework it. You may very well severely change the bump steer properties of the vehicle.
Click to expand...

Yeah talked to one of the guys at Firm Feel this morning , and that is what he said. He said that the bump steer would be messed up badly because of the angle of the tie rod position. He suggested that I have one welded up with a larger arc in it, and that mild steel would be fine to use.
 
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