So close but....

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greenswinger

greenswinger

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Ok guys, long story short. Pulled the slant out to paint the engine bay before my 360 swap. I unplugged the bulkhead connectors and found them to be in good shape. Got the bay painted and reinstalled the harness and dropped in the 360. Bumped the starter and all is well. Got all the wiring installed on the engine leaving some of the unused wiring intact until the engine starts and runs the way it should. I had my digital 6al on the slant before swapping with no problems. MSD box works but now the original Coil + feeding the small 12v switched wire is only hot while spinning the motor over. As soon as the key is released to "run" it dies obviously. Jumper 12v straight from the battery and whammo it runs. WTH would make it drop voltage after the key is in run??? Is there another good source of 12v through the key cycle? I would appreciate my fellow FABO members ideas....:banghead:
 
The ballast resistor and old ECU were pulled per the MSD istructions. Wiring still there and the slant ran perfectly for three years like this. I must have done something to the harness when I reinstalled it but im at a loss. Id really rather not run more wire to fix "around" the problem. Guess this is to be expected but I've been so careful and now Im frustrated!!! I'm trying my best to have it running and reliable for Cruisin' the Coast in October!!
 
Factory switch has 2 circuits. One wire ( brown ) hot in start. the other ( blue ) hot in run. I assume the 2 were spliced together somewhere before you started and now they aren't.
 
RedFish said:
Factory switch has 2 circuits. One wire ( brown ) hot in start. the other ( blue ) hot in run. I assume the 2 were spliced together somewhere before you started and now they aren't.
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Quite possible, and those are the two wires that fed the ballast so they are right next to each other.
 
Agree to all above. How did you connect the IGN & IGN1 wires (or such) together when you installed the MSD years ago? I hope not the "twist & wrap with scotch tape" job I have seen in other's cars.
 
BillGrissom said:
Agree to all above. How did you connect the IGN & IGN1 wires (or such) together when you installed the MSD years ago? I hope not the "twist & wrap with scotch tape" job I have seen in other's cars.
Click to expand...

ok this is great stuff!!!! All I did was use a female spade connector provided in the MSD kit and crimp and shrink it to the original coil+. Removed the ballast and Control box. I didnt tie the ballast wires at all and I promise it ran!! Thank you all !!! Now I have something to check on. Im at work lol but Im sure that wire is brown (coil+)
 
The relationship between the brown blue and the ballast can throw you for a loop when brand X is telling you what to do....
e-ign1.gif
 
So there isnt anything in the circuit that would be smoked if I tie the blue and brown for a constant 12v through the run-start positions? I dont see anything.....
 
Look in your shop manual. You DO have one

"ign1" and "ign2" ign1 is "run" and is ONLY HOT in run. ign2 is "bypass" and is ONLY hot in start. They have to be jumpered together. Those are the ONLY 2 sources of switched 12V ignition "under the hood." IGN1, depending on the year, also feeds VR and 70/ later, feeds the alternator field. If present, it feeds the electric choke, the idle solenoid, and distributor retard. Some smog doo-dads on some cars
 
OK cool so somewhere somehow they had to be tied. I'll tie it again. I may have removed the jumper when I pulled the harness to paint. Thank you all for the replies and help. Yep, I do need a mopar shop manual 67Dart273!!
 
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