Spring Relocation without mini tub...

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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Has anyone done the 3in inboard spring kit without mini tub? I want to get some more space for a 315/60/15 tire which is Tire Diameter:30.00 in.
Section Width:12.90 in.
Tread Width:11.90 in.

I want to also be able to lower the rear so that the lip of the wheel well covers part of the tire for the pro street look. Is this possible to do with only the spring relocation kit and possibly moving the rear back 1 inch?

The reason for not wanting to mini tub is, I have the fold down rear seat option and there isn't that much room to work with when trying to keep that and cutting the original wheel wells.

I kinda want this look below:
 

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I would like to know as well. Subscribed

I think the best thing to get the diameter of tire in there would be to center the rerar end in the wheel arch
 
74DartSwinger360 said:
I would like to know as well. Subscribed

I think the best thing to get the diameter of tire in there would be to center the rerar end in the wheel arch
Click to expand...

I have a B body Rear end also...So I need at least 4.5 backspacing because the 4in I have now will not work.
 
Rhe off set shackle and hanger kit moves the springs in to the same depth as the wheel wells. And you can still get an exhaust on with the factory fuel tank.

These can be made and installed easy. I have some of the original kits here if you need pics. It moves the springs in 1 inch per side. The kits have the nuts welded on the wrong side on the front mounts. There is a better way to install these without slotting the frame. I have done many. This would be the the way to do your car and not do any mods to the frame or body except for enlarging one inner hole on each side of the front inner side of the rail.

This car came to me with one of these kits that was done in the early 70's. You can see they didn't even move the perches on the rearhousing. They drilled a hole 1 inch over and slotted the perch for the U-bolt. When I got this car it was a drag car with 10 inch slicks on it on 9 inch wheels. On a lay down back seat car this would be the way to go. These are not being used on this car I am restoring it to original.

I do have a mini tubbed car myself. I like big tires . The difference is 12 inch wheels with a 7 inch back space minitubbed . 10 inch wide wheel with a 5 inch back space with just the springs moved in. 8 inch wide with a 4 inch back space stock. Steve
 

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Oldmanmopar said:
Rhe off set shackle and hanger kit moves the springs in to the same depth as the wheel wells. And you can still get an exhaust on with the factory fuel tank.

These can be made and installed easy. I have some of the original kits here if you need pics. It moves the springs in 1 inch per side. The kits have the nuts welded on the wrong side on the front mounts. There is a better way to install these without slotting the frame. I have done many. This would be the the way to do your car and not do any mods to the frame or body except for enlarging one inner hole on each side of the front inner side of the rail.

This car came to me with one of these kits that was done in the early 70's. You can see they didn't even move the perches on the rearhousing. They drilled a hole 1 inch over and slotted the perch for the U-bolt. When I got this car it was a drag car with 10 inch slicks on it on 9 inch wheels. On a lay down back seat car this would be the way to go. These are not being used on this car I am restoring it to original.

I do have a mini tubbed car myself. I like big tires . The difference is 12 inch wheels with a 7 inch back space minitubbed . 10 inch wide wheel with a 5 inch back space with just the springs moved in. 8 inch wide with a 4 inch back space stock. Steve
Click to expand...

Thank you. Which picture is which tire? Also I wanted to do the 3in kit with notching the frame because I will be going to 4 link later and figured might as well do the relocation kit now, that way I don't have to do this all late when I go 4 link.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
...The kits have the nuts welded on the wrong side on the front mounts. There is a better way to install these without slotting the frame. I have done many. This would be the the way to do your car and not do any mods to the frame or body except for enlarging one inner hole on each side of the front inner side of the rail.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hi-jack thread but, Steve, what mod are you doing so you don't need to cut the hole in the frame? I've already flipped my front hangers and moved to opposite side of car to lower the stance. I'm using the Mopar offset kit so when you flip the bracket and move to the other side of the car the welded nut stays to the inside (against the frame rail).
 
I moved my springs into the frame. I used the mopar kit as it was the cheapest. I only needed about 1.5 inchs, but the kit moves a minumum of 3 inches or nothing. I tried the offset shacle kit but it only moved the spring 3/8 of an inch. This is on a 65 Cuda. I now can run a 275 in the stock wheel well. My my rear rims are 17 X 9, +24mm offset with a 5.95 back space. I'm using a stock width 8 3/4 rear from a 69 dart.
 
[I do have a mini tubbed car myself. I like big tires . The difference is 12 inch wheels with a 7 inch back space minitubbed . 10 inch wide wheel with a 5 inch back space with just the springs moved in. 8 inch wide with a 4 inch back space stock. Steve[/QUOTE]
Dead nuts Oldmanmopar!
Fst73_360, If you plan on doing the 3'' frame notch/pockets and a 4 link in the future why not do the mini tubs? You may find that leaf springs and some Cal Tracks is all you need and forgo the 4 link all together. I did minis on my 63, and too like big tires so I narrowed my 8 3/4. I run 15 x 12 with 3 1/2'' BS and 26/12-15 MTs. Of course this is just an opinion.
Sory about the crappy photo. I will look for some better ones.
Larry
 

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63 MorePar said:
[I do have a mini tubbed car myself. I like big tires . The difference is 12 inch wheels with a 7 inch back space minitubbed . 10 inch wide wheel with a 5 inch back space with just the springs moved in. 8 inch wide with a 4 inch back space stock. Steve
Click to expand...
Dead nuts Oldmanmopar!
Fst73_360, If you plan on doing the 3'' frame notch/pockets and a 4 link in the future why not do the mini tubs? You may find that leaf springs and some Cal Tracks is all you need and forgo the 4 link all together. I did minis on my 63, and too like big tires so I narrowed my 8 3/4. I run 15 x 12 with 3 1/2'' BS and 26/12-15 MTs. Of course this is just an opinion.
Sory about the crappy photo. I will look for some better ones.
Larry[/QUOTE]

I don't have the ability to do the mini tub myself at this moment. And I don't want to mini tub, if I don't need t0. 7172duster has a good size tire and he didn't do anything but trim the wheel well...I don't wanna touch anything that I don't have to...I just want a 315 tire in there with the lip cover part of the tire or tucked.
 
One thing you need to keep in mind, moving the springs in, that it adversely affects cornering/ handling of your car on the road. You can offset with a rear sway bar
 
No way are you going to fit a 315 in a stock tub and lower the car over the tire.

Do the math... You have about 15" of wheelwell space AFTER doing a mini tub on a duster.
 
I'm subscribed, I'd like to mini tub my 67 Valiant and move the spring into the frame.

Great thread :cheers:
 
What are you smokin' man? If you already haven't noticed, the leaf springs are directly below the lip of the inside wheel well, if it hit's the springs, it will hit the tub.

Just do the tub, its fun. I know you don't believe in your welding skills blahblahblah. That's something you can get over. Take some time to practice and do it big, you only need to blob a glue weld every 1/2 inch. Turn up the welder nice and hot on the tub wire speed about 3 and go to town, turn it down to minimum when your welding tub to floor and floor to frame rail. No need for full welds. 1k urethane seam sealer is your friend. :D
 
67Dart273 said:
One thing you need to keep in mind, moving the springs in, that it adversely affects cornering/ handling of your car on the road. You can offset with a rear sway bar
Click to expand...

This is a straight line car.
 
If he want to keep the fold down rear seat, that's a chore with a mini tub.
 
crackedback said:
No way are you going to fit a 315 in a stock tub and lower the car over the tire.

Do the math... You have about 15" of wheelwell space AFTER doing a mini tub on a duster.
Click to expand...

And only about 12-13 before?
 
It's 12.5 if you are lucky. The tire you want is 12.9 on a 10" rim. Put it on a 12 and it around 13.5-13.7.
 
My demon is the first picture and it is mini tubed and springs relocated. it is nice to have all that room in the wheel wells and not have to worry about rubbing on any thing.
 
I think I am just going to stay 275 on the street. Seems a little pointless to mini tub if I am only going to use 275 on the track also, but bigger on the street. I will move springs in for the 4-link, but just tuck the 275s unless I go to a 285/70 since a taller tire is what I really wanted to lower RPMS on the street.
 
67Dart273 said:
One thing you need to keep in mind, moving the springs in, that it adversely affects cornering/ handling of your car on the road. You can offset with a rear sway bar
Click to expand...

my car drives fine on the street mini tubbed with no sway bars at all.
 
-Sledgehammer- said:
my car drives fine on the street mini tubbed with no sway bars at all.
Click to expand...

You can claim that if you want but the simple fact is that the more you move the springs inboard, the worse the car corners. You cannot argue with physics. These cars didn't handle all that great to start with --my 67 didn't have a front bar from the factory, but it will have both a front and rear bar if I live long enough.
 
67Dart273 said:
You can claim that if you want but the simple fact is that the more you move the springs inboard, the worse the car corners. You cannot argue with physics. These cars didn't handle all that great to start with --my 67 didn't have a front bar from the factory, but it will have both a front and rear bar if I live long enough.
Click to expand...

Yup. You thought about just getting a sticky summer performance tire, or a drag radial and calling it a day?
 
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