Starter sticking

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BigBlockMopar28

BigBlockMopar28

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Wiring up an electronic ign setup on a former lean burn vehicle, from what I understand the starter relay wire that only gets power when cranking goes to the coil + wire along with the ballast resisted keyed hot correct? That way the coil gets full power when cranking and resisted power when running? Tried to wire everything up that way and the starter cranks when the key is at crank but will continue to crank after the key falls back to run. Probably something simple but I have no clue
 
The wire from ignition switch that signals the starter relay is separate from ign' 1 or 2. Its a yellow wire. Ign' 1 and 2 are brown and blue and attached to the ballast resistor. So either one can/will backfeed through the resistor. That backfeed would energize the starter relay in run. That's why starter relay signal is a seperate wire.
 
BigBlockMopar28 said:
Wiring up an electronic ign setup on a former lean burn vehicle, from what I understand the starter relay wire that only gets power when cranking goes to the coil + wire along with the ballast resisted keyed hot correct? That way the coil gets full power when cranking and resisted power when running? Tried to wire everything up that way and the starter cranks when the key is at crank but will continue to crank after the key falls back to run. Probably something simple but I have no clue
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Sounds like you have something feeding "start" when in the "start" position.
Something is looping back to the relay causing it to stay engaged.

That's what it sounds like anyway.

Starter relays can also stick "weld" itself in the start position due to low cranking voltage, but that usually won't happen every time you try it, and what you are describing will if it's getting power looped back to the starter relay when cranked.
 
The way I have this setup is that the keyed hot supplying the box with power goes to a ballast prong (not the resisted side) and jumps to the box power wire while the other one (ign run), goes to the opposing ballast prong so that it is resisted, it runs to coil +. IOW 1 keyed hot goes to a ballast prong, that prong jumps to box power, opposing prong has coil run. My starter relay seems to have less wires than those that have a factory electronic harness, there are 2 or 3 prongs (to the best of my memory) that have no wire running to them on my relay, yet the relay plug has spots for those wires.
 
TrailBeast said:
Starter relays can also stick "weld" itself in the start position due to low cranking voltage, but that usually won't happen every time you try it,
Click to expand...
100% Correct.
Had same issue recently. Car sitting most of the time dont help.....

D.
 
The starter relay likely has 2 smaller terminals for signal wires. One of them gets a yellow wire from ignition switch. The other gets ground. If its automatic trans, that ground comes from the neutral safety switch in park or neutral. That can be a brown wire, a brown with yellow tracer? Yellow with brown tracer? Depends on year model.
If its a manual trans, the OEM relay didn't have a 4th terminal. The relay for automatic can and has be used, just jumper the 4th terminal to ground at the relay mounting bolt.
 
RedFish said:
The starter relay likely has 2 smaller terminals for signal wires. One of them gets a yellow wire from ignition switch. The other gets ground. If its automatic trans, that ground comes from the neutral safety switch in park or neutral. That can be a brown wire, a brown with yellow tracer? Yellow with brown tracer? Depends on year model.
If its a manual trans, the OEM relay didn't have a 4th terminal. The relay for automatic can and has be used, just jumper the 4th terminal to ground at the relay mounting bolt.
Click to expand...
This is true, actually tested that one and with no power the starter wont crank at all
 
In any case, brown or blue from ignition switch cant go to the starter relay.
 
RED has this!!! The yellow and the brown bypass are both "hot" in start. THEY ARE BOTH ISOLATED because they originate from separate distinct switch poles in the ignition switch.
 
67Dart273 said:
RED has this!!! The yellow and the brown bypass are both "hot" in start. THEY ARE BOTH ISOLATED because they originate from separate distinct switch poles in the ignition switch.
Click to expand...
So.. red should be used for coil start, and find another keyed hot for this? Sorry for the stupid questions but im in over my head on this one LOL
 
Ended up running my own hot wire from the battery to a switch in the interior, going to use this for box power and coil run, then wire up the cranking power wire so that this doesn't loop.
 
Do you not have the OEM ignition switch or any of the OEM wiring?
 
Sort of, the factory wiring is there but it was a hackjob when I got it and I can't seem to find a keyed hot that doesn't screw something up when I use it.
 
RedFish said:
I see. What I know may not apply. I would have to find the connector from the column mounted switch and see what wires are there and which are hot in what switch positions.
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I had originally tried to use a couple keyed hots from the lean burn wires itself that go to where the computer used to be, They would't put enough power out for what I needed. Then came the dark blue wire (we all know how that went lol), the only other factory keyed hot I would know to try is the alternators keyed hot, and now that I think about it, that might be that dark blue wire (im pretty sure it runs to the voltage regulator too? Memory isnt serving me too well atm). A local guy said to use the keyed hot from starter relay but as previously stated there isn't one on mine
 
Yeah the same blue hot in run powers voltage regulator, alternator field, ignition in run, etc... A different wire ( brown? ) powers ignition in start. A different wire ( yellow? ) powers starter relay in start. I just looked at a wiring diagram on google images and saw yellow from ignition switch to starter relay. I didn't follow every wire from that switch and there's a bunch of them. At this point I guess I can only wish you good luck with it.
 
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