[WANTED] Stock V8 Radiator for A-body
- Thread starter Pateras
- Start date
-
- Status
340 demon 72
Well-Known Member
azmopar
rust free parts guy
I have a stock sized one from a 72 dart v8 car a/c as well
Pateras
Well-Known Member
Ok cool. Let me go measure and verify hose configuration, then I'll let you know. Thanks.
What water pump system are you using? 69 down or 70 up? What is the short story on the engine and trans? I have a couple from our 67 Cuda Fastback.
Pateras
Well-Known Member
Hi there. BRB conversion with an 833. believe the engine is a 67. I'm running too hot and need a thinner RAD. Here's a pic of my RAD I now have for sale..
Griffin Rad fitment issues
Are you running a Drivers side lower radiator hose? I can't tell from the picture. I have a 68 383 727 Formula S, with a factory 3 row core and it runs cool all day long, even in the summer. I used it as a daily driver for years. Let me know and I'll see what I have laying around.
Pateras
Well-Known Member
Yes sir, Drivers lower, sorry for the horrible pic. Mine is a 383 with a mild cam and heads, i should really be fine, but im far from it. I'd love for you to look, I'm in desperate need. Thank you.
Pateras
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the info and link. Anything helps, as numerous people have looked at this issue with me for a spell now..
I just went through is with a chevy 400 sb aluminum head 11:1 and could not get the heat out of the motor. Tried a couple different elec fans rated 3000cfm just couldn't keep it cool then I bought a air flow meter and found nether fan was pushing 1500 cfm, Finally got a fan & shroud that pushed 2600 cfm and it never gets over 180 degrees. Correct fan and shroud made the difference.
Pateras
Well-Known Member
Absolutely. You can see it placed in front of the rad, making it a "pusher." Thanks.
Pateras
Well-Known Member
This is where my problem comes in. There's no room for a fan on the water pump. In fact, not sure if you can tell, but the rad had to be shimmed aft to allow for th fan in the front, only allowing 1.5 inches of room. If you got a fan and shroud, th n you must have had a ton of room between the pump and rad., correct?
Pateras
Well-Known Member
that's the same fan I had on the 400 chevy claimed 3000 cfm wouldn't move 1500 cfm I think the best I got out of it was running it off a battery charger at 16 volts I got about 1480 cfm. theirs plenty of room for a flex fan and find a nice shroud and you will be set. the fan I ran on the 400 was from cooling components in tenn.
Cooling Components |
Cooling Components |
Treblig
Well-Known Member
You didn't say if your over heating problem occurs sitting at a light or on the high way?? When you moved the radiator towards the rear you opened up a large gap so that air can flow around (instead of through) the radiator (going down the road). I had to move my radiator aft as well but I blocked off all the open spaces around the perimeter of the radiator so that air is forced "through" the radiator instead of around it. Fans lose a lot of efficiency when you use them as pushers. They get the most CFMs as pullers.
Treblig
Pateras
Well-Known Member
Ok, thanks. I sincerely appreciate it. Since I don't know anything about it, do I always need a fan clutch? And if so, will there be room if I move the rad forward again?
Pateras
Well-Known Member
It cools down going down the road, but jumps up at stop lights. Guess I need to figure out if I need a clutch, and find a setup that fits my small gap. Thank you!
No don't use a clutch, bolt the fan to the water pump.
remove the fan you have, remove the spacers and bolt the rad to the core support
get a flat front flex fan it will add about 1/4" to the front of the waterpump.
remove the fan you have, remove the spacers and bolt the rad to the core support
get a flat front flex fan it will add about 1/4" to the front of the waterpump.
Last edited:
- Status
-
