Streetable 11 second small block

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sic71dart

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Ok this title basically sums up my goals for my car. I want to make it run at least solid high 11s with 91 octane pump gas, street tires and through the mufflers. Basically turn 11s the exact same way it sees street duty. So.. just wanted to see if anybody here has attained this so far with thier cars and if so what have they done to get there? I am considering a supercharged small block but it might be cost prohibative. So I currently am thinking about doing a naturally asperated stroker small block to get me there. My car has is as you'd probably already guessed a 71 Dart with an 8 3/4 with 3.91 gears and posi. Currently with a 318/904 tranny which obviously wont do the job so lets hear what you have to say, thanks.
 
Very easy with a stroker smallblock. You can end up with around 408 to 416 cubes and the smallblock strokers run hard with the right heads. My sons is actually a bigblock. Its a .030 over stock stroke 400 and its just a drive anywhere anytime 93 pump street car. But the smallblock stroker will be more cubes then his 400 with more stroke. I see them in the 11's all the time. His 400 ran 11.60's @ 116 with 3.91's and 11.50's @ 116 with 4.30's and he still drives it 45 miles to the track at 60 mph with the 4.30's and a 28" tall tire. Yes build a nice smallblock stroker and go run 11's. Ron
 
Here he is having a blast running mid 11's at 19 years old. This run was 11.59. And if you build the smallblock stroker you will have more cubes then his 400 does with a lighter eng. Ron

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To run the time, it may require a bit more cam without the cubes and add to a lumpy heavy cammed feeling. I'd go with the stroker if the wallet allows and the fact of the added torque to make the run easier with less revs. Big cubes eat up cam sizes easier. That big cam in a 340 is mellowed a bit in a 400+ cube engine.
You also may consider an overdrive for the hwy. cruise. I do not the limit of only 60 - 65 mph.
 
11.78 @ 118 In a 68 Formula S, 340 (matching # non-stroker), 4 speed and 3.91 Rear (dana 60). I do need to mix my gas with race fuel, but can baby it around on pump gas. Time is with slicks on the street I run E70-14 redlines and full wire wheel covers. As fun as the car is it's a bit much for the street. The car looks 100% stock everyplace except under the hood. Inland shifter and no extra gauges inside to give anything away. My combo is a bunch of compression, port work and a solid roller cam.

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rumblefish360 said:
To run the time, it may require a bit more cam without the cubes and add to a lumpy heavy cammed feeling. I'd go with the stroker if the wallet allows and the fact of the added torque to make the run easier with less revs. Big cubes eat up cam sizes easier. That big cam in a 340 is mellowed a bit in a 400+ cube engine.
You also may consider an overdrive for the hwy. cruise. I do not the limit of only 60 - 65 mph.
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Very true. My cam is very lumpy and I twist it to 8,000rpm. I bet I could have built a stroker for less cash. My engine was last out of the car in 1991.
 
68s340, thats the way I like it!! sleeper.
I too run 12.5:1 , roller, and portwork. like you say , gotta do a little mixing, but it's worth it for a weekend driver.
and I'll bet your car sounds "healthy" to put it mildly.
 
1973 Duster 340 witha 69 340 10.5 comp TRW pistons 92 Octane gas, unported factory 308 casting heads with 1.5 Mopar roller rockers, .508 Mopar hydraulic cam, stock crank, stock rods, 1 5/8 headers 3 inch exhaust, torker II intake 750 HP holley, MSD ignition, 3800 stall, 4.30 gears with 28 inch tall Sportsman Pros. So far 11.99 at 112mph without cracking open the carb or changing the timing, street tune only. I shift at 6000 and go through the traps between 6000-6200RPM. Very docile on the street and cost me $2250 to put together. My time slip is in the data base with more details. Derick

http://media.putfile.com/Duster
 
Well so far here is what I was thinking : resto 340 block with a 4 inch crank, forged H beam rods, forged 10:1 pistons to give me say 410 + cubes. Some Edelbrock heads with a full port race port and polish. A comp cams camshaft with maybe 550-560 lift/250 duration give or take. Performer rpm edelbrock intake ported out a little bit. 750-850 cfm speed demon carb. TTI 1 3/4 or 1 7/8ths headers going through 3 inch pipes. Maybe a really really well build up 904 with 3000 rpm stall, reverse manual valve body. My current 8 3/4s with the 3.91 with my 235 BFG drag radial tires and SS leaf springs. I also want to get a fiberglass hood to loose 30-40 lbs, light weight bucket seats to loose another 30-40 lbs, aluminium driveshaft to loose maybe another 5-10 lbs plus reduce drivetrain rotating mass. Ill also have the battery in the trunk for weight distribution.. maybe a pinion snubber to hook up even better?
I know this wont be cheap but I figure its worth the peice of mind to have the rock solid bottom end and sturdy engine block. I hear that ShadyDellSpeedshop has a really good reputation so I might have them do my motor.
 
I thought you wanted high 11's??? if that combo doesnt go high 10's in a properly tuned car you would be doing something wrong....
 
Well I kinda wanted to over build the combo so I am not dissapointed with the results, plus we got crap 91 octane gas here in Cali.

Also heres one out of left field, I just saw on the Street and Performance crate 6.1 hemis for like 7300 bucks ! What do you guys think of that ? It would probably be a few grand extra with all the odds and ends but I think thats a pretty good deal for 425 net hp and daily driver streetablity. Adapter motor mounts are now out there as well has headers, oil pans ect making a swap like that reasonable. Still more money and more of a challenge then a stroker but am I thinking too big here? I knew they had the 5.7s out for awhile but they didnt have the power to really justify the price, this is very very temping indeed !
 
I killed several 8 3/4 rear ends running high 11s (but I was launching at 8000rpm). Dana 60 is the way to go.
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Yeah Id imagine 8000 rpm launches would do that, how does the tranny cope with that by the way? My 8 3/4s literally just got installed a week ago and I put a good amount of money into it, (742 center section, new axles, disk brakes) so itll have to stay. Plus with an automatic there wont be that much of a strain on the gears like a hard launching manual.
 
hello :drinkers: I am getting all of this :book: thanks :thumblef:
 
sic71dart said:
Well so far here is what I was thinking : resto 340 block with a 4 inch crank, forged H beam rods, forged 10:1 pistons to give me say 410 + cubes. Some Edelbrock heads with a full port race port and polish. A comp cams camshaft with maybe 550-560 lift/250 duration give or take. Performer rpm edelbrock intake ported out a little bit. 750-850 cfm speed demon carb. TTI 1 3/4 or 1 7/8ths headers going through 3 inch pipes. Maybe a really really well build up 904 with 3000 rpm stall, reverse manual valve body. My current 8 3/4s with the 3.91 with my 235 BFG drag radial tires and SS leaf springs. I also want to get a fiberglass hood to loose 30-40 lbs, light weight bucket seats to loose another 30-40 lbs, aluminium driveshaft to loose maybe another 5-10 lbs plus reduce drivetrain rotating mass. Ill also have the battery in the trunk for weight distribution.. maybe a pinion snubber to hook up even better?
I know this wont be cheap but I figure its worth the peice of mind to have the rock solid bottom end and sturdy engine block. I hear that ShadyDellSpeedshop has a really good reputation so I might have them do my motor.
Click to expand...

From what I've heard, ShadyDell is THE place to get your Eddy heads ported. I know he does engines too, but I saw on his website he is catering more to the high end (read high dollar) crowd.

For the cam, don't settle for an off the shelf Comp grind. Get a custom designed cam tailored for your exact combination from Scott Brown at StraightlinePerformance.
 
I already got the subframe connectors, just waiting to get them welded in place. Already have the SS leafs with BFG drag radial tires which should get me off to a good start. Yeah and judging by ShadyDells site I am sure he does do alot of high end business, alot of R block motors with W8 heads ect, looking at the labor costs though as far as head porting ect his prices do seem pretty fair to me.
 
Only 1 7/8 headers I know of are Heddmen Hustlers ( I have some still in box ) but they are one tube over frame ala cut car. I nbeed to know how you folks are fitting a tire under 67 thru 69 fishs to leave the line.
 
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