The field is up to 41 wild and crazy Cheapo speed freaks, er. Competitors.
1973_Scamp, 318willrun, 340, 440outlawdart, 4spdragtop, 89on35s, Abodybomber, alcronk, BB4-speed, beebeeri000, BWDart, Cazbah362, CichliDart, Dartnut, derrangedgadgeteer, halifaxhops, hustonr123, Jaime97, jeepers007, jgiljum, jippek, jrlegacy23, justme, Lead foot, metallidart, mikesdart, Mopar to ya, mopar4, ohiocowboy1277, pishta, RaniDart70, Robbie2734, rumblefish360, RustyRatRod, Teedog, thesiren74, tqfastfish, Triple J, TXDart, william, yeah
The FABO Friendly Drag competition
( rumblefish360 )
What is this?
This is a
Competition for fun with no prize money, just bragging rights. This is your chance to be a show off and say I told ya so!. This group wants to reach engage "newbies" to the Hobby in a FUN, Friendly way and show what can be accomplished with bare bones Budget minded type builds.
Who is it for?
This is a friendly competition open to everyone but especially newcomers to the hobby.
How does it work?
It relies on the
"Honor system." That should be easy, right? Just remember your actually helping your MoPar family out when you
DON'T LIE! Your entry should be done as
"CHEAPLY AS POSSIBLE!" THE CHEAPER THE BETTER. SHOW OFF YOUR SCROOGE!!!!! Show the world what a cheap S.O.B. you are! Do your best to keep costs down where ever possible, use what you have laying around, get in trade, or find used. It's okay if you have to buy new Just keep in mind this is a low cost budget minded competition.
New parts carry the price. So, if you can get used headers, great. If not, new ones are not a shame item or expenditure. Building your own exhaust is "Awesome hero work" while dropping $700 on a tti exhaust is "Hall of Shame". Also, The extra cost for slowing down or safety is understandable and should not be considered in the build cost
Once your build is complete
Race your local track and report back!
Most
IMPORTANTLY, Have fun!
Requirements:
From top to bottom, seems like a good place to start; The car should also be street worthy.
Carb/F.I.:
* A single 4bbl. to keep it simple and cheap. (Stock and stock replacement carbs are acceptable).
In example; Edelbrock carbs, basic Holley carbs. 4160/4150 & Avengers. Rebuilt TQ's, QJ's No Pro built or after market carbs like AED. Modify it yourself and be a good fella, start a thread and show us how! Let's see this baby on your bench being done. And so do the new guys!
* F.I. is okay to run.
e.g. If the car came with it or, If you come across a beat up Ram with a 5.2 or a 5.9 and raid everything you need from it.
* There is no limiting PSI rule for carbs or fuel injection.
*
NO power adders such as
turbo's or
nitrous or
blowers
Fuel:
* The octane requirement is pump gas that you get at your local gas station and available everywhere. For some it is 91 octane, others, 93 octane.
* If 100 octane is available to you, realize that it is not readily available to everyone else and not the normal nation wide normal high octane and therefore
not good to use.
*
NO electric fuel pumps UNLESS you swapped in a Magnum engine (Which has no provision for a mechanical pump) or if it's the only way to make your build work.
Intake:
* Any 4bbl. will do. Mods? Same as above.
* Scoop, anything goes
* Air cleaner; Anything goes.
Heads:
* Run the heads the car came with if you can, or if you don't have the heads it came with it should be an OE head.
* Swapping heads is OK. IE: LA for Magnum heads
* Stock or replacement style valves
*
NO porting or die grinder work
* Any valve job is OK
* "Back-cutting" valves OK
* Mill the head until your happy, or have a door stop from going too far!
* Stock rocker arms are preferred, but, open for discussion.
Camshaft:
* Whatever you shove in there! LOL! (Roller cams aren't cheap, but they can be used.)
Exhaust:
* Whatever you have
CHEAP! Manifolds, or headers!
Ignition:
* Any
Cooling:
*
NO electric water pumps UNLESS it's the only way to make your build work.
Trans:
* Manual, scatter shield OK
* Single disc clutch
* OE trans 3 or 4 speed
* Auto; No Manual valve bodies or trans brakes
* Shift kits, deep trans pan, extra cooling, high stall converters OK
Rear end:
* Any OE rear,
* Any gear
* Swap for sure grips & bigger rear, OK, (if you wanna be a one leg warrior and hero, go for it.)
Suspension:
* OE and Cal Tracs
Body:
* Any hood scoop will do.
* Remove and replace what you want/need to. Fiberglass parts are the norm right?!?!?
*
NO Lexan
Interior;
* Full street like. Not gutted to high heaven.
* You could remove the back and passenger seat.
2 of them actually. 71 and 72. The 72 I'm fixing up for a pro-touring-ish cruiser and the 71 I will eventually go to a more period correct bud for it. But the body is solid, needs a hood (bent) and a passenger fender (got stolen) I actually bought the car off a FABO member for $400. Could throw the 318 from my 72 in it when I swap the 5.9 into my 72. Or.... I can buy the 67 4 door valiant from the junk yard (super solid body) for $250!! It was a slant car but droppin the 318 in that could be fun! Nothin like surprising mustangs and camaros with a granny car!!
