get a glide..... I hear it often. I understand the reasons.... but I want to know what is required? Presently I can swap from my W8 combo back to my iron head 360 and run the 727 or if I get another driveshaft fabbed, my tbrake equipped 904. Everything is pretty much a bolt in deal between the two. So what have you done to support the trans? Modified stock trans crossmember? do you have to fab up something in a new location? Obviously I know I'd have to have my shifter reconfigured also. How much does the rear gear change? Mid plate required?
those that have gone Glide.... come on in!
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This is gonna be a long post with detail. I hope you decide to go with a glide after all the typing that I'm gonna do here, lol.
It is simple, and easy. Best thing I ever did on my bracket car. This will sound like a lot of work, but it only takes about two evenings after work, and you are done.
I will tell you from the get go, DO NOT buy an Ultra Bell adaptor. It requires you to cut the entire bell housing off of your powerglide and use the front pump bolts to bolt the bell housing on. This makes selling the glide almost impossible if you decide to later.
Buy the TCI adaptor plate kit. It comes with every single piece needed and has very clear instructions. It looks like a mid plate and can be used as one if desired. However, I simply cut my plate out on a band saw and smoothed the edges round with a Roloc wheel on a die grinder. It is barely visible sticking out from behind the engine.
Heres what you will need:
TCI KIT #149180 at a cost of $507.97 from Summit
A trans mount for a powerglide. I used the solid mount.
A piece of 1/4'' flat bar a little wider than the trans mount holes. Cant remember if I used 3'' or 4''.
A yoke for a Powerglide tailshaft housing.
A GM torque convertor.
Follow this procedure, and it will be done right and save you a lot of time.
With the Mopar engine and tranny in the car, get underneath and take some measurements with the driveshaft out. You are looking to get a measurement from the top of the tranny tunnel to the center of the output shaft. This is going to help you locate the GM tranny at the correct height when making your trans mount.
Once you have that measurement, write it down. Now just follow the instructions from TCI and get your glide mounted behind the engine and in the car. With the trans jack under the tranny and the GM trans mount bolted to the tranny, jack the trans up and take your measurement to the center of the output shaft from the top of the trans tunnel. jack the tranny up until the measurement is the same as the one you took with the Mopar trans in the car. Now take your factory mopar crossmember and put it in place.
Now take your piece of flat bar, and with it pushed flat up against the GM tranny mount, slide it back until it hits your Mopar cross member. Now mark the cross member with a marker around the flat bar so that you can notch out the front of it just enough to let the flat bar slide through and hit the back of the cross member. Once you notch it out, bolt it back in place, and slide the flat bar through until it bottoms out on the back of the cross member. Now tack weld the flat bar to the cross member while keeping it pushed up tight to the GM trans mount.
Now, mark your flat bar so it is flush or just past flush with the front of your GM tranny mount, and cut it off. Now all that is left is to mark your flat bar where you need to drill the two holes so you can bolt it to the GM trans mount, and you are done. Take it off and weld the bar to the cross member in every place that it makes contact. There will be plenty of welds on it.
That's it, you are done.
All that's left is to measure for your new driveshaft length and use a yoke for the powerglide. You still use a mopar mini starter on the front of the TCI plate.
WHICH JUST REMINDED ME. CHECK STARTER FITMENT BEFORE YOU BOLT EVERY THING IN THE CAR. YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A DIE GRINDER TO CLEARENCE THE INSIDE OF THE POWERGLIDE BELL HOUSING ENOUGH TO LET THE STARTER SEAT FULLY WHEN MOUNTED.
Its not a big deal and only took me about 15 minutes to do. The TCI instructions tell you that you may have to do it on some trannys.
Now you just order a Convertor for a powerglide. nothing special, because the TCI kit has all the right spacing and adaptation done so that it bolts right up.
If you got any questions, ask them here so I can answer them and anyone else considering the swap can see it.
As far as gear, I run a 4.86 in my car. Car weighs about 3250 with me in it, and I shift my 408 at 6400rpm. 60ft times are around 1.45-1.48 depending on the air.
I don't mind helping you with this if you have questions. I wish a post like this had been here when I did mine.
It is simple, and easy. Best thing I ever did on my bracket car. This will sound like a lot of work, but it only takes about two evenings after work, and you are done.
I will tell you from the get go, DO NOT buy an Ultra Bell adaptor. It requires you to cut the entire bell housing off of your powerglide and use the front pump bolts to bolt the bell housing on. This makes selling the glide almost impossible if you decide to later.
Buy the TCI adaptor plate kit. It comes with every single piece needed and has very clear instructions. It looks like a mid plate and can be used as one if desired. However, I simply cut my plate out on a band saw and smoothed the edges round with a Roloc wheel on a die grinder. It is barely visible sticking out from behind the engine.
Heres what you will need:
TCI KIT #149180 at a cost of $507.97 from Summit
A trans mount for a powerglide. I used the solid mount.
A piece of 1/4'' flat bar a little wider than the trans mount holes. Cant remember if I used 3'' or 4''.
A yoke for a Powerglide tailshaft housing.
A GM torque convertor.
Follow this procedure, and it will be done right and save you a lot of time.
With the Mopar engine and tranny in the car, get underneath and take some measurements with the driveshaft out. You are looking to get a measurement from the top of the tranny tunnel to the center of the output shaft. This is going to help you locate the GM tranny at the correct height when making your trans mount.
Once you have that measurement, write it down. Now just follow the instructions from TCI and get your glide mounted behind the engine and in the car. With the trans jack under the tranny and the GM trans mount bolted to the tranny, jack the trans up and take your measurement to the center of the output shaft from the top of the trans tunnel. jack the tranny up until the measurement is the same as the one you took with the Mopar trans in the car. Now take your factory mopar crossmember and put it in place.
Now take your piece of flat bar, and with it pushed flat up against the GM tranny mount, slide it back until it hits your Mopar cross member. Now mark the cross member with a marker around the flat bar so that you can notch out the front of it just enough to let the flat bar slide through and hit the back of the cross member. Once you notch it out, bolt it back in place, and slide the flat bar through until it bottoms out on the back of the cross member. Now tack weld the flat bar to the cross member while keeping it pushed up tight to the GM trans mount.
Now, mark your flat bar so it is flush or just past flush with the front of your GM tranny mount, and cut it off. Now all that is left is to mark your flat bar where you need to drill the two holes so you can bolt it to the GM trans mount, and you are done. Take it off and weld the bar to the cross member in every place that it makes contact. There will be plenty of welds on it.
That's it, you are done.
All that's left is to measure for your new driveshaft length and use a yoke for the powerglide. You still use a mopar mini starter on the front of the TCI plate.
WHICH JUST REMINDED ME. CHECK STARTER FITMENT BEFORE YOU BOLT EVERY THING IN THE CAR. YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A DIE GRINDER TO CLEARENCE THE INSIDE OF THE POWERGLIDE BELL HOUSING ENOUGH TO LET THE STARTER SEAT FULLY WHEN MOUNTED.
Its not a big deal and only took me about 15 minutes to do. The TCI instructions tell you that you may have to do it on some trannys.
Now you just order a Convertor for a powerglide. nothing special, because the TCI kit has all the right spacing and adaptation done so that it bolts right up.
If you got any questions, ask them here so I can answer them and anyone else considering the swap can see it.
As far as gear, I run a 4.86 in my car. Car weighs about 3250 with me in it, and I shift my 408 at 6400rpm. 60ft times are around 1.45-1.48 depending on the air.
I don't mind helping you with this if you have questions. I wish a post like this had been here when I did mine.
Why are you switching to a glide? Are you having problems with the mopar trans holding up? I have been running a stock 727 with a manual valve body with no breakage for years. I am just wondering why people want to run a 2 speed when a 3 speed would be quicker.
Its just as strong or stronger than our Mopar stuff, and can be build with a trans brake and all the goodies for WAY less than a 727 or 904.
Another reason is that its one shift. Means you just cut the chance of human error in half, because you are not having to hit 2 perfect shifts.
Even in a bracket car that shifts with a solenoid I think it is still more consistent.
The 3 speed is faster MOST OF THE TIME. In some cases the glide is faster if it is set up right, because it has a WAY lighter rotating mass. Glide cars normally mph a little higher than 3 speed cars running the same ET.
Another reason is traction. You will get way more consistent passes with the glide just based on the fact that the 1.76 first gear will not hit the tires as hard as the 2.42 gear ratios of a torque flight. It really helps cars with smaller tires and stroker motors.
I am as Mopar as any man on this website. Heck, if somebody comes in my driveway in a Chevrolet, I will call the law, lol.
However, I like winning races too, and a glide has more advantages in that department.
I do not see how mine could be more consistent. All my friends run chevy's with a glide and they complain because mine runs the same thing down to the hundredths and theirs don't. I am running a drag radial and they are running slicks. And they say a stock glide will not hold up with any power.
Stock glide may not hold up to any power if it has a factory 1.82 first gear. They were pressed together. The 1.76 gear glides will hold up to a lot of abuse, as they are made different.
I'm not trying to make anyone switch. Just putting the info out there.
There are 3 speed cars that are consistent. My Volare wagon has a 904 and ran five 7.13's in a row the other night in a two hour period. However, I think some of that has to do with having 3.73 gears and all the good weight transfer of a wagon.
How about if I put it like this.
As a general rule, The glide is more consistent, but there are exceptions.
drugster
Well-Known Member
Great info, any picture of the crossmember?
mikedevore
Well-Known Member
I tried the power glide deal for one race weekend.
This was along time ago.
I had a mild 440 that ran 10.60's in a back half Duster.
Weighed 3100lbs with me in it.
I was running Super Street in it, all my Chevy buddies told me it needed a P/G.
So, I pull all my T/F stuff out, transbrake 727 with a T/A 8"convertor.
I purchased a P/G had it built, installed all TransKing componets, including a shift module to shift it by a MSD chip.
That was the most boring car I had ever driven.
It would hook up in dirt, it was consistent & solved my wheel stand issues.
Also, it slowed the car down to 10.80's.
That lasted for a week, I convinced the guy I sold my T/F stuff too, that he needed the P/G setup.
Put the T/F back in it.
The P/G does all the thing it says it will do, But I just preferred the wheels up exciting ride. LOL.
My kid now races, both cars have 904's in them. One has a brake, but we don't use it.
He has won quite a lot with both cars.
He does keep pushing for the P/G to be installed in our faster car.
This was along time ago.
I had a mild 440 that ran 10.60's in a back half Duster.
Weighed 3100lbs with me in it.
I was running Super Street in it, all my Chevy buddies told me it needed a P/G.
So, I pull all my T/F stuff out, transbrake 727 with a T/A 8"convertor.
I purchased a P/G had it built, installed all TransKing componets, including a shift module to shift it by a MSD chip.
That was the most boring car I had ever driven.
It would hook up in dirt, it was consistent & solved my wheel stand issues.
Also, it slowed the car down to 10.80's.
That lasted for a week, I convinced the guy I sold my T/F stuff too, that he needed the P/G setup.
Put the T/F back in it.
The P/G does all the thing it says it will do, But I just preferred the wheels up exciting ride. LOL.
My kid now races, both cars have 904's in them. One has a brake, but we don't use it.
He has won quite a lot with both cars.
He does keep pushing for the P/G to be installed in our faster car.
Mike,
did you change the gear in your duster when you went to a glide? I went to a 4.86 in my dart, where I would have ran a 4.30 or 4.56 had I kept the torqueflite.
2 tenths is a lot of slow down.
about 7 hundredths to a tenth slow down is normal from my experience, provided that a gear change was made.
did you change the gear in your duster when you went to a glide? I went to a 4.86 in my dart, where I would have ran a 4.30 or 4.56 had I kept the torqueflite.
2 tenths is a lot of slow down.
about 7 hundredths to a tenth slow down is normal from my experience, provided that a gear change was made.
mikedevore
Well-Known Member
No, I did't. It had a 4:88 in it
sorry... start up a post and disappear. Graduation week has kept me busy! just fyi. my car is small block powered and has ran a best of 9.43 so far, so slowing down some isn't too big a concern really. Limiting factor would probably be the 10.5 tire I run. I presently have 4.3 gears and looking at the data they are the wrong tool for the job so a gear change would be optimal anyways. My last car I bought a very nice well put together 727 from a friend that got out of racing for awile. Fully roller, lightweight everything, Transact non LBA tbrake, ported pump and mods to increase fluid volume.... it worked great and was lightning quick. Torqueflight in this car.... basically a rebuild with a good front drum. I did change to a Pro Trans clean N trans brake, but the trans just isn't "there" like I've experienced. I'm to the point where I just want to haul it across the desert and have it DONE.... I also have a 9" and a 8" converter that we ran behind the W5 mill. That combo never 60 footed real well despite having the grunt to run into the 9's. Now that I have a data recorder on the car it's pretty plain to see how the converter is pulling the engine down, and the W8 is making more power than the W5 was so they were probably a mile off for that combo. My dad was content with running 10's, so the 4.30 gear, tall slick and low shift point worked fine for him (W5 era). So...... at this point I'm looking at the cost of having either one or both converters changed to match our combo better, and getting the trans "updated" at Pro Trans which I'm betting isn't going to be cheap. I'll most likely go that route, but I guess I need to try and look to see a route that will most likely improve my bracket racing experience. I know in an all out deal the three speed would prevail (can look at about any of the heads up N/A cars and you'll find three speeds) but let's face it...... the available arena calls for consistency, and you can't argue that a 2 speed holds an advantage there. On the other hand, I don't have any desire to run "super street", "super pro" or the box classes..... just an expensive hobby, and it's a lot of fun running fast.
The 904 is not for sale.... it and the converter is matched to our iron head 360 which has gone 10.8's in Vegas. It's always my "ace in the hole" if our fun, but temperamental, "fast" engines give us grief. As it sits the whole other combo is plug and play and can be swapped quite easily.
The 904 is not for sale.... it and the converter is matched to our iron head 360 which has gone 10.8's in Vegas. It's always my "ace in the hole" if our fun, but temperamental, "fast" engines give us grief. As it sits the whole other combo is plug and play and can be swapped quite easily.
68cudaauto
original mopar man
71 gt, what does your convertor flash at, 4500 or higher?
Woods74
Broke Senior
Grass isn't greener.
71GTDart, nice write up!
I just switched from a glide to a 904 with a 2.77 first gear and picked up .3 in the qtr. My car ( 71 duster)picked up .2 in 60 foot. I ran a 10.07 at 130 with my 408 with eddy heads, last time out last week. My 904 is 15 lbs lighter than the glide. my car scales at 3188#s. I ran between 10.07 to 10.10 out of 9 passes I made. Very consistant considering the temp went up 20 degrees from the runs in the morning to afternoon. My 60 varied from 1.32 to 1.34. I thought id add that I run 10 inch tires.
Your car was supposed to pick up .2 in 60 ft. You went from a 1.76 or 1.82 first gear to a 2.77 first.
What kind of case do you have for your 904?
I've picked up 904's and power glides and loaded them in the back of pick up trucks.
The 904 is heavier to me for sure.
Not saying yours wasn't lighter than the glide, but its a longer transmission and has more gears and guts inside.
What kind of case do you have for your 904?
I've picked up 904's and power glides and loaded them in the back of pick up trucks.
The 904 is heavier to me for sure.
Not saying yours wasn't lighter than the glide, but its a longer transmission and has more gears and guts inside.
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