turbo AR

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70wayfarer

70wayfarer

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well autumn is here for us and have decided to remove the Vortech and replace it with a S475 turbo. should be straight forward as everything is in place for boost.
been poring over the info here and all I can say is wow, this forum rocks with info.
anywho, this is for a 360la/727 in a '70 Chrysler Wayfarer Ute weighing 1650kg with me in it. best et 11.56 @119mph on the 1/4. was 14's NA.

been looking at Turbokits.coms bullseye S475 1.10 AR. the 360 will see forged internals over winter as well. heads are smoggers with 1.6 / 2.02 ss valves moderately ported.

looking at low 10's at least.

I had enough trouble getting my head around the boost thing when I set up the Vortech, so please any info/help/advice will go a long way and be much appreciated.

regards Andy
 

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I can't help with the turbo info as I have a 6-71 on my 340. But I was wondering why you wouldn't turn up the wick on the Vortech instead of going turbo?

Jack
 
Yeah, what was your experience like with the Vortech? The installation looks good.
 
Coyote Jack said:
I can't help with the turbo info as I have a 6-71 on my 340. But I was wondering why you wouldn't turn up the wick on the Vortech instead of going turbo?

Jack
Click to expand...
I was going to do the turbo thing, but was talked into the Vortech by a mate the had a similar setup. great on the street, but have gone through 4 8 rib belts now for no apparent reason. alignment is sweet. at $114 NZ bucks a belt it adds up. all belt issues have been at the track. 2.87 head pulley and 7" crank pulley is already up to max head unit capacity.

am going to stoke the 360 to 408 and top that with a s475 borg warner turbo. been wanting to get in the 10's for a while now and that should do it.
should be fairly straight forward as the ute is already set up for boost.

cheers
 
For a 400+ ci engine id definately run a T6 rear housing of some sort. Something around the .96+AR range would work well.

The engine will flow a **** tonne of exhaust gas, and remember you are trying to shove it all through a single cast housing (running twins you could get away with smaller T4 units) . Too small of a housing and your exhaust temps will be through the roof and you will be choking the engine.

My advise is to do some research on how to read turbo maps. And go from there.. Choosing the right turbo is just as important as the right convertor or camshaft.

I've got a 76mm turbo with a 1.05ar T4 on my 360 (not yet running) and I'm looking at stroking it now. So a turbo upgrade is in the future.

Need to know anything else feel free to pm me :)

Wardy

 
that pic does it for me in so many ways.......
is that ve you got there. that's pretty much what I am aiming for. s475 is 1.32 AR. was offered a 365 forged kit at a good price so will prob go that way. see you have 2x 50mm bov's, is that a must, or will 1 do.
have ProSystems 750 BT carb capable of 950hp, and single Tial 50mm bov, will get Tial 60mm gate.
cam and converter next things to look into.

cheers Andy
 
On a side note I really like your ute.. Nice work!

The s475 is a 75mm turbo from memory? (Compressor inducer size)
In my opinion anything over 360ci can really benefit from at least a 80mm turbo, T6 in the 1.00 range.
Of course the s475 will work and make plenty of power, and will definately put a smile on the dial! But a good matched turbo will produce more power easier and be more efficient.

An PT88 precision, Garrett GT4788 or borgwarner s480 would be a great match for yours, with the correct housings and trims

Only reason I have my 76mm is because I originally planned on using a 318 lol, how plans change!
But once all up and running I plan to run a PT88 and some custom headers.

The twin 50mm bovs are not really needed as such, more a cosmetic thing I wanted, but I've gone overboard with most things, bovs, 4" dump pipe, aeromotive fuel system, 2000cc injectors, 1500hp rotating assembly..All so I don't have to upgrade when the wick is turned up :)
I plan to get a Ritter block in the future and shoot for over 1000hp at the tyres.

Yep it's a ve regal sedan, have a build thread on here if you wanna search for it

Wardy
 
70wayfarer said:
I was going to do the turbo thing, but was talked into the Vortech by a mate the had a similar setup. great on the street, but have gone through 4 8 rib belts now for no apparent reason. alignment is sweet. at $114 NZ bucks a belt it adds up. all belt issues have been at the track. 2.87 head pulley and 7" crank pulley is already up to max head unit capacity.

am going to stoke the 360 to 408 and top that with a s475 borg warner turbo. been wanting to get in the 10's for a while now and that should do it.
should be fairly straight forward as the ute is already set up for boost.

cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer. Goes to prove for every question there is a good answer.

Jack
 
1500hp rotating assembly...sounds like you're set up for severe track duty Wardy.
i'll be more than happy with low 10's.
 
Yeh it will see plenty of track time. Prob 90/10 race/streetcar. Wether it will get close to 1500 I don't know, but at least it'll be strong enough.

I'm only planning to run in the 9's this year sometime, if it goes faster then I'll be stoked
 
I had a S480 BW T6 and they are big. Worst thing is they are set up for a 5 inch downpipe. Hard to get that past the engine.
I would think with 360 cubes with the right heads, you could go with a T4 based turbo and only have to deal with a 3 - 3.5 inch downpipe, much easier.
The PT7675 turbo is very popular , lots of LS guys with 5.3's making huge power with them,8-900 HP with a 5.3.
Gives you an idea what that turbo is capable of .

http://ls1tech.com/forums/tags/pt7675.html
 
70wayfarer said:
been looking at Turbokits.coms bullseye S475 1.10 AR. the 360 will see forged internals over winter as well. heads are smoggers with 1.6 / 2.02 ss valves moderately ported.
Click to expand...

???? 'cold side' A/R ????
 
This is true, you can also get the S475 in a T4 housing as well. I would stick with 360 cubic inches, an T6 S475 (1.32A/R), and have at it. You will make more than enough power to split the block in this combination. Make sure you have 1/2"-5/8" forward fuel line, along with 5/8"-3/4" return. Twin Walbro 255 external fuel pumps or a single A1000 work well. 50MM WG/50MM BOV is all that is necessary. Aeromotive Boost Referenced FPR is a must. Make sure your converter is up to the task, many companies such as hughes, Transmission specialties, etc. offer great turbo converters with anti-ballooning plates.

Blown71duster is correct about the 5" DP issue, you can run a split 4" DP if needed into twin 3" pipes. It is difficult to do front mount on daily driven Mopars due to torsion bar suspension with limited clearance. In a race application, dumping it into/out of the inner fender is all that is necessary.

You are already forced inducted, so I am sure you have a majority of this covered. Just trying to cover all the bases as their is a big leap from an 11 second car running 119MPH to a low 10 second car running 130+MPH.

If you have any questions, just ask, or join 'theturboforums.com' and start a build thread in the Mopar section.
 
There is a 360 in a 62 valiant with a S475 1.32A/R exhaust housing on the forum running low 10's now!
 
yes yes....the Votech is gone and a bloody big turbo now resides in it's place.
 

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Sweet5ltr said:
This is true, you can also get the S475 in a T4 housing as well. I would stick with 360 cubic inches, an T6 S475 (1.32A/R), and have at it. You will make more than enough power to split the block in this combination. Make sure you have 1/2"-5/8" forward fuel line, along with 5/8"-3/4" return. Twin Walbro 255 external fuel pumps or a single A1000 work well. 50MM WG/50MM BOV is all that is necessary. Aeromotive Boost Referenced FPR is a must. Make sure your converter is up to the task, many companies such as hughes, Transmission specialties, etc. offer great turbo converters with anti-ballooning plates.

Blown71duster is correct about the 5" DP issue, you can run a split 4" DP if needed into twin 3" pipes. It is difficult to do front mount on daily driven Mopars due to torsion bar suspension with limited clearance. In a race application, dumping it into/out of the inner fender is all that is necessary.

You are already forced inducted, so I am sure you have a majority of this covered. Just trying to cover all the bases as their is a big leap from an 11 second car running 119MPH to a low 10 second car running 130+MPH.

If you have any questions, just ask, or join 'theturboforums.com' and start a build thread in the Mopar section.
Click to expand...

good info...
I already have 1/2" fuel line to a Mallory boost referenced regulator and 3/8" return. is my return too small now?
DP is 5" but I have used a 5"-4" eccentric reducer and will go out through the fender well. this is work i'm doing at the mo. 60mm Tial WG and 50mm Tial BOV, 3.5" intercooler piping now done.
have also removed my 6AL and BTM into the cabin now to keep them away from heat and clean up the engine bay.
will post more pics.






everything is coming together nicely. as parts arrive more gets done.
 
You will be fine with 1/2 feed and 3/8 return I'm glad to see you went with the turbo from my experience and proven on two builds one of my own the turbo set up made more HP on lower boost PSI so good luck!BTW the build is looking great!
 
My thoughts are your a little too large for a 360 or even a 408. not saying it wont get you what you want, but I feel its going to be laggy. I would have went with a T4 and small AR something around .96AR or 1.05AR for a 408. WARDY's turbo mentioned would have been a better fit.
 
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