Turbo oiling for 2.2 85 Daytona

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Syleng1

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Without getting into the bs I’ve been thru on this turbo 1 to turbo 2 conversion (sons car not mine) I went thru FWDPerformance for the converted turbo.
The company said to keep the warranty I had to buy their ss braided water and oil line kit. So I did. The factory metal line that was junk on disassembly was 1/4” steel tubing line used for our cars for like fuel vapor line or even brake line.
The SS braided line in the kit is like 1/16” inside diameter. I see on line a lot of turbos call for a .040” restriction.

1) why would you restrict the oil to the bearings
2) is there a difference between a restriction and a whole line at least 1/2 as small as what was factory?
3) should I have a local shop make a larger ss braided line for all the obvious reasons or run the 1/16” line. They are telling me it is a -3 an line but I don’t believe it.
I also don’t mess with turbos personally so my experience is diesel only and on trucks
With modified engines it is as big a line as you can fit as long as the drain is 1-1/2 times the oil side.

Currently our oil drain is #10 I think we are good.
 
@318willrun used to play with a couple of K/L turbo cars back when. @TT5.9mag knows more than the average bear on the turbo stuff as well.
We just ran the factory oiling using full synthetic turbo approved oil. ALSO - of note, we would let the car idle for almost a minute if we ran it hard, for the turbo.
 
A 1/16 line at 60-70 psi of oil pressure will flow a ton of oil. Ever forget to put the oil pressure sensor in a block before priming? Journal bearing turbos need only enough oil to maintain a constant film on the journal bearing and thrust surface. Usually 040 is plenty. Roller bearing or ceramic bearing turbos require even less. The reason to restrict the oil inlet is simple, you only want what you need and not more. More oil will only cause problems. IE smoking, puddling, and coking after shut down when hot. Not too mention an overly large feed line is a direct oil pressure leak so if it’s too big you will notice an oil pressure drop on the engine side. You want a big return back to the pan and it should be as straight as possible. FYI the GT55 Garret on my truck has over 350k miles on it and it’s remote mounted (so about 12 feet from the engine) and it’s fed by a -3 SS braided oil feed line with a 030 restrictor. The twin turbo big block for my boat has two -3 braided SS feeds with no restriction, those are VS racing 7875s and Viren (owner of VS) said to not run oil feed restrictors on them.
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You can see basically the turbo whole oil system in this photo.
 
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:eek: Now THAT is a Turbo setup!:steering:
I bet that boat has a whole different kind of thrust…
 
:eek: Now THAT is a Turbo setup!:steering:
I bet that boat has a whole different kind of thrust…
it’s almost ready. It’s been my focus for the last 3 years and Im almost finished completely rebuilding the entire boat. On pump gas with the smallest spring I have in the wastegates (7 psi) it made 800hp so it should be fun. On the water this summer for sure.
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The factory setup worked fine with factory turbos, I've beaten the living piss out of every one I've owned, & Pop has a T1 ShadowES w/ over 212K, & (2)T2's, one pushing 200K. Only head gasket issues & unrelated oil leaks, not one turbo has given up on Us yet. His '87 ShelbyZ just got a Cometic a couple years back. I ran a cat-only w/an open 2.5" pipe all the way out back on the LaserXE, also had put bigger valves in the head, ran great for a TurboI with stock controller. Always let them idle for a bit, usually I wait for the fan to run & shut off, then give it ~10sec. more & kill it.

P.S. Oh yeah, sythetic all the way. I ran Pennzoil PZL in the '88ShelbyZ when I first got it, but switched to Mobil1 & never looked back.
 
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