what can be done to lower 60ft time?

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Valvebounce

Valvebounce

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There are lots of people here with many years expierence. So I'm hoping to draw on your experiences. What mods can I do to lower my 60ft times?
I can't seem to run quicker than two point two seconds.
 
a ton of stuff can be done.... gotta let these guys know about the car first though... whats your engine,trans and rear combo? whats your suspension set up as of now? what tires are you running at the track??
 
Indeed. Without some idea of your current setup we are like a blind man behind the wheel.
 
Lets start with the rear tires & suspension in your car....tell us about it.

Next, tell us about your front tires and suspension.

Now tell us about the engine, it's possible or known power output
"..........................." Tranny and rear gear (If not allready mentioned)

From these known things, help should be easy to suggest. The been there and done that crew of like/similar or used to have it builds can help you alot from there.
 
My first ? would be are you launching the car as hard as you can, or at least hard? I would think working backwards from there could help.
 
I must have been drunk when I started this thread. I have no recollection of doing it. lol (Although I do vaguely recall thinking I might ask you guys for help)

Anyway, that aside, here's my set up as it stands.

I'm running a manual trans, with a three point nine to one diff, with a home made spring loaded locker center. (Kinda like a poor mans cone type lsd) With basically standard leaf spring rear end.
The front end has been lowered, so the car isn't level (It used to be lowered front and rear, but I took out the flattened out rear leaves and replaced them with stock items as they couldn't put any power to the ground at all.)

ATM I'm doing a modest burnout to warm up the tires, and then I try to launch as hard as I can without shocking the tyres and losing grip completely. (I don't alway succeed at that) The tyres I ran at the last meeting were a well used pair of street performance dunlops. Although they didn't offer any improvement over the cheap nasty asian 205/60s that I ran proir to that.
I'm sure I read on hear somewhere that every X tenths off the 60ft, was worth Y tenths off the total ET. However my ET seems to only differ by the same amount that my 60ft varys by.
Last meet was a cold day (Like around 10*C) and the track wasn't really grippy. I managed to run [email protected]. My PB in this car is 14.1@96, but that was on one of those freak days when the wind was blowing the right way, and the track was freakishly good.

Anyways, I've set up a nitrous kit on my engine to try and bring down my ET/raise my trap speed. BUt I feel like it'll be a waste of money (a 10lb bottle fill costs 250 bucks here) if I'm not getting the best 60ft 1st.


Since starting this thread (and since I didn't know I'd even started it) I got a bit of advise from a bloke at another forum.
He suggested,
Raise the front up so the car sits level. (no brainer really)
Wder tyres. (I've got a pair of 245s lined up)
Leave the spare tyre in, and replace the air with water. (Try get more weight over the rear wheels)
I've also found a new diff head which is welded up, and is 4.375:1. A freind took a vid of my last run, and while I was doing my burnout, I got the see the spring loaded locker diff unlock, and go open. So a locker should help things too.
 
Yeah, get the locker working. Lots there.
Don't put a bigger tire on than needed, they'll slow you down at a certain point.
If it's not a street car, get the front end "loose", i.e. no sway bar, 90-10 shock, you can even work on the bushings to allow for easier lift.
Be careful about putting water in the spare, if you hit something (wall or?) that thing could easily bust the little bolt holding it and be a lethal, flying weapon. I'd stay away from adding weight. Make the car work. Weight will slow you down. Take weight off the front of the car. Sounds like the guy who made those suggestions is an old stock-type racer. (I.E. "rule bender")
Lots to be done. Have fun.
 
Firstoff lose the "street" tires thats what they're ,get yourself a set of m/t drag radials,front and rear drag shocks and a pinion snubber..trust me your 60's will greatly improve...
 
MT ET streets will help a ton. You may wind up the leaf springs though. There are several ways to address that. $250 to fill a nitrous bottle, Ouch! 100 HP squirt can take a second or more off of the ET but only after you add the traction. The bottle can't be cold or it will lose half its pressure at 10 C and you will run way rich. A bottle heater may be required. You will also have to purge before every run. Can your motor spin fast enough to get a 4.37 gear through the traps? Warning as you start running faster you start having more fun!
 
Thanks for the replies guys.
MT's would be fantastic, but they're a luxury I can ill afford. (you can probably tell by my modest ET and trap speed it's a low buck set up) I do have a roll bar which will pass tech, that'll enable me to use some cheaper non DOT slicks, But the back seat is too handy to lose the use of.
The car is about 50/50 street and strip. (ie, I barely drive it) So I don't want to do anything to do too many mods that I can't undo for street use.
I shouldn't have too much trouble running out of revs. ATM I'm hooking forth gear around 40-50 metres before the finish line.
 
ok when you pull up to the burn out box and you have a street tire drive around the water. If you go through it you just pick up water and then in the burnout you through it up in the wheel wells. Then while your waiting on the tree the water drips back down on the tire. Avoid the water box at all costs with street tires

next the burnout, with street tires you just need to spin them over to clean them off a little. A big burnout will actually hurt you as it will make the tire greasy and it will not hook as well.

There are 2 free things you can do right there. Next you need to look at weight transfer. Get the front end as light as possible. If you can relocate as much weight as possible to the rear. Ie move the battery. Look at spring clams to stiffen up the rear springs if they are wraping up on the launch. Or go with the pinion snubber like mentioned earlier. A welded rear end is not an option for an nhra event, (according to what I have read in the ruel book) but if it's ok where you are, then by all means go for it if you want. Good luck and be safe
 
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