JamesRR
Well-Known Member
Got a set of kelsey hayes disks for the front on my 66 Barracuda. I have the dual master cylinder with booster. Which proportioning valve should I use?
J
J
i think they are $89 at inline tube. fine lines probably has them as well if you want to check their prices. mancini has them for $85 http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/propbrakval.html
they are all over
Use a proportioning valve from any of the factory 67-72 A Body disc brake cars, or a valve from the 73-76 cars works just as well, also.
QUOTE]
If you want the original look then the 65-72 version is for you. If you have 4 wheel drums now you need to change the MC to a disc brake version.
If it was me I'd go to a manual disc brake MC and ditch the power brakes. Unless you have some kind of physical limitation, power brakes aren't needed on an A body. Order a power brake MC from a 73 Dart but run it manually. (15/16" bore)
*****
I'll just throw this out there...when I did the BBP conversion on my 8-3/4, and changed to 10" x 2-1/2" drums on the rear. I plumbed the front brakes through a line-loc, then to a Tee and then to each front brake. I ran the rear brake line through an adjustable Summit prop valve. (looks identical to the Wilwood) I do NOT have the factory prop valve/safety switch on the car anymore. the only thing the safety switch does is turn the red brake light on in the dash when there is a hydraulic leak in the system. My foot tells me when there is a leak because the brake pedal slowly heads to the floor instead of being rock hard at stop lights. So now I can adjust the proportion by turning a knob. They used the same factory ones on every model of the car from staion wagons to /6 light weight Valiants.
Use a proportioning valve from any of the factory 67-72 A Body disc brake cars, or a valve from the 73-76 cars works just as well, also.
QUOTE]
If you want the original look then the 65-72 version is for you. If you have 4 wheel drums now you need to change the MC to a disc brake version.
If it was me I'd go to a manual disc brake MC and ditch the power brakes. Unless you have some kind of physical limitation, power brakes aren't needed on an A body. Order a power brake MC from a 73 Dart but run it manually. (15/16" bore)
*****
I'll just throw this out there...when I did the BBP conversion on my 8-3/4, and changed to 10" x 2-1/2" drums on the rear. I plumbed the front brakes through a line-loc, then to a Tee and then to each front brake. I ran the rear brake line through an adjustable Summit prop valve. (looks identical to the Wilwood) I do NOT have the factory prop valve/safety switch on the car anymore. the only thing the safety switch does is turn the red brake light on in the dash when there is a hydraulic leak in the system. My foot tells me when there is a leak because the brake pedal slowly heads to the floor instead of being rock hard at stop lights. So now I can adjust the proportion by turning a knob. They used the same factory ones on every model of the car from staion wagons to /6 light weight Valiants.
This the one I assume?
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=CM_iyLaB2rUCFQXnnAodrmwA1A