Which combo Valve should be used??

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JamesRR

JamesRR

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Got a set of kelsey hayes disks for the front on my 66 Barracuda. I have the dual master cylinder with booster. Which proportioning valve should I use?

J
 
Use a proportioning valve from any of the factory 67-72 A Body disc brake cars, or a valve from the 73-76 cars works just as well, also.
Whatever you can find, or buy from these internet web sites, or eBay sellers.
Sent my last one out to a member in PA. last week, so I'm out of stock of them.
 
hemi71x said:
Use a proportioning valve from any of the factory 67-72 A Body disc brake cars, or a valve from the 73-76 cars works just as well, also.
QUOTE]

If you want the original look then the 65-72 version is for you. If you have 4 wheel drums now you need to change the MC to a disc brake version.

If it was me I'd go to a manual disc brake MC and ditch the power brakes. Unless you have some kind of physical limitation, power brakes aren't needed on an A body. Order a power brake MC from a 73 Dart but run it manually. (15/16" bore)


*****

I'll just throw this out there...when I did the BBP conversion on my 8-3/4, and changed to 10" x 2-1/2" drums on the rear. I plumbed the front brakes through a line-loc, then to a Tee and then to each front brake. I ran the rear brake line through an adjustable Summit prop valve. (looks identical to the Wilwood) I do NOT have the factory prop valve/safety switch on the car anymore. the only thing the safety switch does is turn the red brake light on in the dash when there is a hydraulic leak in the system. My foot tells me when there is a leak because the brake pedal slowly heads to the floor instead of being rock hard at stop lights. So now I can adjust the proportion by turning a knob. They used the same factory ones on every model of the car from staion wagons to /6 light weight Valiants.
Click to expand...
 
KosmicKuda said:
hemi71x said:
Use a proportioning valve from any of the factory 67-72 A Body disc brake cars, or a valve from the 73-76 cars works just as well, also.
QUOTE]

If you want the original look then the 65-72 version is for you. If you have 4 wheel drums now you need to change the MC to a disc brake version.

If it was me I'd go to a manual disc brake MC and ditch the power brakes. Unless you have some kind of physical limitation, power brakes aren't needed on an A body. Order a power brake MC from a 73 Dart but run it manually. (15/16" bore)


*****

I'll just throw this out there...when I did the BBP conversion on my 8-3/4, and changed to 10" x 2-1/2" drums on the rear. I plumbed the front brakes through a line-loc, then to a Tee and then to each front brake. I ran the rear brake line through an adjustable Summit prop valve. (looks identical to the Wilwood) I do NOT have the factory prop valve/safety switch on the car anymore. the only thing the safety switch does is turn the red brake light on in the dash when there is a hydraulic leak in the system. My foot tells me when there is a leak because the brake pedal slowly heads to the floor instead of being rock hard at stop lights. So now I can adjust the proportion by turning a knob. They used the same factory ones on every model of the car from staion wagons to /6 light weight Valiants.
Click to expand...

This the one I assume?
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=CM_iyLaB2rUCFQXnnAodrmwA1A
Click to expand...
 
I prefer an adjustable proportioning valve. Got one from Jegs w/ logo off ebay ~$25. I what looks like the same model for up to $80 elsewhere. I don't see how a fixed one could work optimally since the split needed depends on the rear wheel cylinder size vs front calipers, even the friction materials. The fixed one you link has an imbalance switch, but you have no wiring or lamp for that.

As many have, I used my distribution block for just the fronts, plugging the rear port. If so, get a 1/4 to 3/16 inv. flare adapter for the top port. I used a coupler for the rear line and put the prop valve next to the booster (out of the mud). You can almost see it in my avator, or search my posts. Still running drum-drum, but ready for disks.
 
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