Which distributor should I use?

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Looks like I need to throw two more in here. Of course I've had points distributors and never had a problem with them or adjusting them. But I usually do this in a case-by-case. If the OP has a 318 2 Barrel meant for the street and is asking whether he had to put points or electronic distributor on I'm no Sherlock Holmes but by deduction I'm saying this person is probably not one who's going to want to adjust points even though they will have the same performance as an electronic distributor. when I go along my clues here I think if someone's asking this question they're probably not someone who's going to want to adjust points? Now as far as trying to squeeze better performance and better starting out of a 2 Barrel 318 for daily driving an occasional spirited I think we're just overthinking it or you guys are. I'm saying just go get a $79 distributor and never look back for the rest of your life. And that's my two more.

I agree completely, and is why I suggested the set that I did.
Yep, it's overkill for that car but it's also a heck of a deal on a complete ignition set.
One of our cars is a stock teener with a two barrel and I put an HEI kit on it.
Waste of time and parts basically.:D
 
Right now there is a 600cfm Holley on a street master intake.
Stock manifolds
Stock cam
Stock points distributor with blaster coil and really old stock wires.

What I have going on is a set of headman short headers with 2.5 dual exhaust. The headers and double roller chain are not installed yet.
I'm working on a performer intake to get rid of the streetmaster.

Ahead I will port the exhaust side and mild port the intake
Maybe some milled 302 with bigger valves and some nice valve springs. Run the 262 or 270 cam and be done with it. I'd like to get about 250-275 out of it and leave it there. Run some 3.55 locker gears and have a cool spirited street car. Stock wheels and tires with some sway bars and Be done won't it. I'm not going overkill with this car at all. I used to have a 440 in it and it was just too much for what I was looking for. Its suspension and brakes are all upgraded for the bigger engine and its still 440 ready.

The 2 barrel description was only to show which electronic distributor I had that came from a smog era car with no performance additives somyou all would know what I was working with. This is a budget build.
In a sense I'm trying to understand the parts I'm dealing with and how they need to be chosen and modified.
I'm ok with points adjustment but I'm really looking for the best option between these two distributors

It was a lot more info than I expected and was very welcomed.
I've still got that flat spot off idle and I figured that upgrading the ignition system would at least isolate that as not the problem.
I think it's in the primary transfer slot. The ignition system needs to be upgraded anyway. I've not even looked at the problem in a while.
I was trying to sort out here whether I was going to put the electronic ignition in or keep the points.

I also like simplicity that The pertronix eradicates the box and the ballast resistor . With what trailbeast said in that the coil really does a lot of the hotter spark kernel. That hei coil upgrade looks like a nice upgrade. It's the coil that reall does this hotter spark and not the module?

Performance wires are a must.

I can always add to this later. I am looking to get this done without back tracking after the cam install. Like buying that streetmaster intake just to remove it and go with a performer intake which I'll be staying with. I don't want to get into the 360 head edelbrock performer rpm stuff.

Now I'm looking at
1. pertronix in the points with a hei coil
2.Leaving the points and adjusting gap and dwell with hei coil
3.Recurving the electronic with a hei module and hei coil
4. adjusting the points with the blaster 2
5. Recurving the electronic with the factory box

Either way it sounds like I'm going to end up recurving eirher of these distributors for a faster advance.

Thank you guys for your patience. all of this and the other posts really help and I'm really getting a lot out of all of it.
 
Neither would be my answer!

Lean burn has no advance mechanism IIRC

I'd find a cheap electronic unit, fine tune it to your build and run a stock box or one of the kits out there like what trailbeast does.
 
I was looking at that link that white punk posted.
Below 4000 they all performed the same. I'm not sure I'll run it even to 5000 that much. Makes me wonder if the streetmaster with a 250 would be fine.

The 76 electronic is not a lean burn then. It's got an advance on there

I have a better understanding anout this than I did before this thread
 
The stock distributors you can do a lot with, different advance cams, lighter spring to hit faster mechanically and there are a bunch of adjustable (which means limiting) vacuum advances out there for adjusting total advance sounds hard actually pretty easy.
 
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