Windage Tray Stud kit install Q's

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70Hardtop

70Hardtop

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Hi, i'm installing a Miloden windage tray stud kit in my LA engine. On Caps #2 and #4. ARP main bolts on the other ones. When installing these 4 studs -should i use Loctite on the threads or not? Two people have told me yes, two others say no. Some say all the way down by hand until it bottoms out and leave it there, others say back out 3/4 turn. Which is what and what is best or is it not really that critical? Its not being raced.

Also, stock torque setting is 85ft lbs, which is also what Miloden say for their main stud nuts. ARP (bolts) is 95 ft lbs. So why does Larry Shepard say 100ft lbs in his book "How to HotRod Small Block Mopars" (page 102) showing a picture of factory main bolts (!)

thanks
 
70Hardtop said:
Hi, i'm installing a Miloden windage tray stud kit in my LA engine. On Caps #2 and #4. ARP main bolts on the other ones. When installing these 4 studs -should i use Loctite on the threads or not? Two people have told me yes, two others say no. Some say all the way down by hand until it bottoms out and leave it there, others say back out 3/4 turn. Which is what and what is best or is it not really that critical? Its not being raced.

Also, stock torque setting is 85ft lbs, which is also what Miloden say for their main stud nuts. ARP (bolts) is 95 ft lbs. So why does Larry Shepard say 100ft lbs in his book "How to HotRod Small Block Mopars" (page 102) showing a picture of factory main bolts (!)

thanks
Click to expand...

Split the difference? :read2:
 
You will need to check the distance. The tray needs to be close to the crank. I try to get it within 1/4 " of the rods and crank. The studs should have had flange nuts with them. You sandwich the tray between the nuts. No locktite needs to be used.
 
hand tight the stud into the block

and torque the main nut to 95 pounds

the windage tray need to be as close as possible
of the rotating assembly about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch

the nut will sandwich the windage tray torque
those nut to 35 pounds

and make sure to try the dipstick before sealing the
oil panne mine didnt goes correctly and it chew up the
dipstick and the help of rotating assembly
 
What a machine shop told me about the main bolts: put 30 wt. oil on the threads and torque to specs.
What I have gleaned from FABO regarding the bolts to hang the windage tray: use loctite and torque to specs.
I wish crazy 340 had made his findings public sooner, my oil pan has already been installed.
C
 
Why not just install arp windage tray bolts. You'll have to drill they tray to fit but arp makes the strongest bolts. This is what I did but swapped out for a stud girdle (my motor is a 340)
 
Thanks for replies, but lets go through them...

1: HemiMark: Split the difference...(what?) Manufacturers put torque values to their fasteners for good reason. The Mildoden studs are 85, which is the same as stock factory bolts. ARP BOLTS are 95. Larry Shepherd has obviously made a fundamental mistake saying 100ftlbs and showing a picture of factory bolts - i bet he got roasted by plenty of people for that

2: Moper....i am talking about the main studs for #2 and #4 - installation into the block. There's nothing there in my question about the windage tray setup. But thanks anyway.

3: Green1 "Never bottom out a bolt". True...but i asked about studs.

4: Crazy340...This is the best answer, but torque is not 95 but what Miloden say, which is 85. I am sure they would tolerate 95, but being studs the clamping force on caps #2 and #4 would be much greater than the others which have ARP BOLTS. This could lead to rotating friction problems. Great advice on checking dipstick before pan goes on -i appreciate that advice

5: Clhyer - i am talking about studs not bolts. But i will definitely use Loctite on the tray hang nuts and torque to 35

6: 1970 Duster "Why not just install arp windage tray bolts"...Because i bought Miloden...they were half the price of the ARP, which wern't in stock a year ago when i wanted to buy them.
 
The studs are replacing the bolts, therefore torque to the same specs. Use the oil, not locktite. You sure wouldn't want to tighten them and then back them out 3/4 turn! Bolts are engineered to stretch the threads at a particular torque to lock them in place. If Miloden says 85 ft.# that's what I would use. If I were using the ARP's, I would torque to ARP specs. Can you say that your torque wrench is right on the money? Or that the original installer of the main bolts had his wrench right on the money?

Also, fwiw - I was advised to use a hardened flat washer between the windage tray and the stud for clearance issues.
C
 
You still might want to use the arp bolt because you said you are using them in the (other) main cap locations, not having a uniformed torque pressure across the crank is a very bad idea
 
I used the arp studs on my 410.
What I did with the windage tray ]milodon[ was trial and error finding the right height, even grinding some clearance [keep in mind it's stroker] then stacking the flanged tray nuts and tightening them together [double nut them underneath the tray] and then used a lil blue loc tite when torquing them dowm, I just made tight like a slant intake manifold nut 'by feel'

On the studs...motor oil, in by hand, then made sure they screwed in all the way by gently, and with a rag between, using pliers. Then I backed them out and screwed them back in by hand. I torqued them to the required 95lbs.

I recommend you use the torque spec given by the manufacture, despite being a lil diff it is supposed to give the same required clamp force.

like if you were to only use the 2-4 studs and spec them to 85lbs or 95lbs... you would still only torque the rest [stock bolts] to the 85lbs or whatever the stock spec is to get the desired clamp force.

go by manufactures spec and skip the 'my way' books.
jmo
 
What do you do to get the oil pump to fit?
 
Tarr said:
What do you do to get the oil pump to fit?
Click to expand...

1st use the arp 12 point nut and then grind a lil off the pump body and aslso grind down the stud flush with the 12 point nut [fully torqued 1st].

You might even grind about .020 off the top of the nut/stud, like I did.
 
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