Vavoline VR1 20W50 Racing Oil

-
JTG

JTG

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2010
Messages
799
Reaction score
46
Just would please like to verify, does Vavoline 20w50 VR1 racing oil
part# VV211 have enough zinc in it already that I will not be required to use a zinc additive.
 

Attachments

  • VR1.jpg
    12.9 KB · Views: 843
Used oil test come back about 1200 ppm i hear, just got a second case for $29.88
 
There are two versions, the one with the SM or SN API rating does not.
 
dgc333 said:
There are two versions, the one with the SM or SN API rating does not.
Click to expand...

yea i just learned there is two versions... if they will say where they got a case of racing @ for 30 bucks all get some or i'll be going back to penn...
 
Don't laugh but I have used Shell Rotella in my duster from breakin to today. it has all the zinc and additives anyone could need , and it costs less the. just my thoughts to your question, check it out.
 
DUSTERDOWNS said:
Don't laugh but I have used Shell Rotella in my duster from breakin to today. it has all the zinc and additives anyone could need , and it costs less the. just my thoughts to your question, check it out.
Click to expand...

i would check the bake cuz the last i heard they had just taken everything out of it within the last yr...
 
Like the other post on this, there's some confusion between the types of VR1. Below are pics. Left is Not For Street Use 20-50. Note that it has NO API label...That has tons of zink, similar to Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs. Center is VR1 straight 30. Note the API circle on the label. This bottle is SJ which has a lot of zink. But it's also several years old. The current standard is SM which does NOT have anywhere near the zink that a fast rate lift camshaft needs. On the right is typical CarQuest (Valvoline) 20-50 which has the API-SM grade label.
The NFS 20-30 is about $6.50 a bottle. The VR1 straight 30 which carries the API label and may have SM rating is the stuff on sale. If you can find SL grade VR1 then it's still pretty good. Once they reach SM it can have no more zink than any other plain oil.
 

Attachments

  • 100_2180.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 856
  • 100_2181.jpg
    104.5 KB · Views: 862
I think, from what I have heard, you can run motorcycle oil...Use what the major Japanese four recommend for there street bikes...I heard that oil has everything you would need and more for you car's engine...
 
I just bought VR1 at AutoZone for $2.49 a quart. (Thanks Joe) I'm still going to use the zink additive though.
 
I get so tired of these damn oil threads!!

I'm fixing to change my oil and everytime I see a oil thread it's like "What am I going to use this time!" Because I have seen something different.

I guess I'm going with VR-1 10W-30 (if they have it) and a bottle of the GM E.O.S that I have bought recently.
 
I found this while browsing

"Be cautious with the Valvoline VR-1. I too used it in my drag bikes and collector cars, because of the need for ZDDP for the flat tappet cams. VR-1 had the ZDDP greatly reduced if not eliminated to meet the later API ratings (SL & SM I believe). At that point I switched to Valvoline motorcycle specific because it maintained the ZDDP. But now it too has had the ZDDP removed. There are a few companies now marketing oils for 60's collector cars, Brad Penn & Summit Racing for example that maintain the ZDDP because they meet the older API SG grade. They are labeled not to be used in emmission control equipped vehicles. Personnally I have switched to one of these in my bikes and old car. The Nautique I just inherited will get the same treatment."

Summit racing oil .............. almost $5 a qt!

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...g-Oil/?keyword=summit+racing+oil&autoview=SKU
 
Thank you everyone for the input, will definitely be using zinc additive with the VR1.
 
Why using such a heavy-weight oil as 20w50 or SAE 30? Only good reason to do so is that your engine is worn out, and if your engine is worn out it doesn't matter how much zinc is in the oil.

(And no, you don't need Zinc additive.)
 
Hi Dan, engine is a fresh rebuild with about 60feet of driving on it at the moment, I have quit a bit of performance work done to it, I expect it to run hotter and to breakdown the viscosity of the oil faster, the reason for the 20w50.
 
just bought a case of VR 1 ill be checking it to see the label,, i hope this tread is wrong,,,last time i talked to a tech at valvoline they told me vr1 had 1200 ppm zddp,,,the case cost me 58 bucks,,ouch
 
JTG said:
Hi Dan, engine is a fresh rebuild with about 60feet of driving on it at the moment, I have quit a bit of performance work done to it, I expect it to run hotter and to breakdown the viscosity of the oil faster, the reason for the 20w50.
Click to expand...


Ahhh, fresh rebuild does warrant zinc break-in additive such as GM EOS.

But 20w50, absolutely not. This is 2011, not 1961 when engine oils were primitive and film strength was a direct function of viscosity. That is just plain not the case any more. Running thick oil like this in a brand-new engine is a great way to put a lot of wear on it in a big hurry; it'll take forever to get proper oil volume to the nice, tight clearances you just finished achieving. You are making a large error based on a faulty understanding of how engine oil works and how it responds to heat. This error will cost you engine life and performance. Do some research. Get on bobistheoilguy.com and ask people who actually know. The thickest oil you want in that engine is 10w30, and a very good (sound, scientific) case can be made for 5w30 or 0w30.
 
I use lucas break in additive for the first 500 miles and then use regular oil.

I don't think it matters untill you are running very high spring pressures and even then it might not if the cam was broken in correctly in the first place and the right zinc additive was in the engine during the break in period.

I buy regular oil and add my additives to it.
I use marvel mystery oil and a additive such as lucas oil or fram oil treatment and stabilizer.
The fram stabilizer is 2.50 at big lots for a 32 oz bottle.
It has zinc in it.


(Picture of TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Oil Additive (16 oz.) )
Hover over the image to zoom in


email_a_frnd.png

print_page_prod.png


TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Oil Additive (16 oz.) by Lucas Oil Products - part# 10063


Part No. 10063 Warranty
| View Customer Q&A

Be the first to write a review
| View Customer Q&A



enter_your_zip_wht.png



va_atc_grey.jpg

Check Availability






closeandX_ymme.gif

Check a Store near you
QTY



No, this part does not fit your vehicle. Change vehicle
Search for similar parts that fit your vehicle

Brand: Lucas Oil Products
Manufacturer Part#: 10063
Advance Auto Parts Part#: 7660006




Designed for race applications, Lucas TB Zinc-Plus Engine Break-In Oil Additive protects the camshaft lifters and valve train during the break-in period of a new motor.

Product Features:
  • Designed for race applications requiring additional extreme-pressure additives; not designed for passenger car use
  • Formulated for flat tappet camshafts during break-in or as an additive to any motor oil to help prevent premature wear
  • Helps seat new rings while providing an extreme-pressure additive to help protect the entire valve train
  • Add 1 bottle with every oil change
  • -----------------------------------------------------------------------
PictureFram.png


10351.png







Product Files



Marvel Mystery Oil -
 
Lucas = scam. Does not belong in your crankcase. See here.

Fram? Those jokers can't make an oil filter worth a damn, and they're not an oil company. I can't imagine why I'd pour anything with their name on it into my crankcase.

I'm not a petrochemist, so I don't try to play one in the driveway, mucking with the engineered chemistry of engine oil by dumping in random goop because the advertising makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

But that's just me.
redbeard.gif
If you gotta-just-gotta pour extra stuff in your crankcase, read post #4 in this thread.
 
slantsixdan said:
Why using such a heavy-weight oil as 20w50 or SAE 30? Only good reason to do so is that your engine is worn out, and if your engine is worn out it doesn't matter how much zinc is in the oil.

(And no, you don't need Zinc additive.)
Click to expand...


Dan, as the builder, it's my choice. IMO, it's no different than checking your tire pressure before you leave for a long trip. Cheap insurance against the unseens that can ruin the camshaft. It's not usually a choice in oil that does the damage, but using the right oil can help guard against failure for the actual reasons. As far as VR-1 NFS that's the only two grades they make it in but it's not the only oil I use. It's the oil I believe the original poster was asking about. I break engines in with heavy oils, then depending on the cam once the breakin's done, they get regular 10-30, 15/40 fleet (API-SM), or possibly one of the NFS VR1s depending exclusively on the camshaft. I have never lost a cam, I'm uber-careful with setup, and I built a running stand to make sure they are broken in properly just because of my concern over losing one. I'm also not one of those "HV oil pump" guys. I run enough pressure and std volume. Not "way more than enough" of either. But a lot of guys don't have those options or the technical know-how to get things perfect. The result of that has been mixed and over protecting with a better oil is an insurance I see no problem with.
 
slantsixdan said:
Lucas = scam. Does not belong in your crankcase. See here.

Fram? Those jokers can't make an oil filter worth a damn, and they're not an oil company. I can't imagine why I'd pour anything with their name on it into my crankcase.

I'm not a petrochemist, so I don't try to play one in the driveway, mucking with the engineered chemistry of engine oil by dumping in random goop because the advertising makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

But that's just me.
redbeard.gif
If you gotta-just-gotta pour extra stuff in your crankcase, read post #4 in this thread.
Click to expand...

True. I had a Fram PH8A implode itself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top