How Hot Should My Ignition Coil Get

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Sick_Six225

Sick_Six225

72 Dodge Dart Swinger
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Clarksville TN
72 Dodge Dart Swinger, 225CI runs great no problems but I seen that my Ignition coil is really hot to the touch. Should it be like that? Dart starts up great and runs perfect but just hot.
 
3
This Is what I am talking about that is getting hot. I am running Mopar Electronic.
 
Sick_Six225 said:
3
This Is what I am talking about that is getting hot. I am running Mopar Electronic.
Click to expand...

i know what a coil is. what i ment is what brand and style. if you have the wrong coil the ohm will be wrong, causing it to get hot.
 
Duralas Gold/Ignition Coil is the brand. Its a 12 Volt Coil that connects straight to the 12 volts. Again running mopar electronic. Running a balast resistor, voltage regulator and ignition module. Is this the information you needed?
 
there is your problem... you need to run that coil using the stock hot wire. the stock coil i think is only 1.6 ohms, in order to run straight 12v thru a coil you need a 3 ohm coil.

let me ask you this. did you add wire to get direct 12v to the coil or bypass the ballast resistor?
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
That was my first thought. You need to run through the ballast resistor.
Click to expand...

i run a 3ohm coil so i can run straight 12v and a hot a** spark. but the best bang for the buck on a stock setup is the petronix 45K coil.

also a must to run a

Blue streak CH-410 brass contact cap
Echlin MO-3000 long tip brass rotor
Ebay 500ohm Wires (im on my third car with them, great fit and price!)
hot coil
 

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EDIT---I see I was typing this as others were, as well

Without knowing the specific part number, impossible to say

You say it operates "directly off 12V" Are you CERTAIN that is correct? Do you have specific document that states this? The fact is that NORMAL U.S. automobiles all the way from the first 12V cars to well into the 80's when EFI finally began to change things, do NOT use a coil which runs directly off 12V and there IS A VERY good reason for this

Whether GM, Ford, AMC, or Mopar, all systems used to work exactly the same----

You use a coil in combination with a ballast resistor or in-harness resistance wire which "runs" off the RUNNING SYSTEM (which runs at 14V, not 12)

The entire reason for this is so that when CRANKING, when battery voltage is LOW, especially if the battery is a little low, in wintertime, or flooded, etc, you need a hot spark for starting. So all these cars had a circuit DURING CRANK which bypassed the resistor.

GM, Ford, AMC did this with the starter solenoid. Ma did it right in the ignition switch, the infamous brown "IGN 2" circuit.

What this all boils down to, in a NORMAL vehicle with a ballast / coil combo, and with the system PROPERLY running / charging at 14V, the coil actually sees about 11-12V under some conditions.

In other words, you must be careful about proclaiming something as "12 volts"
 
Is it laying on its side or is it vertical? Despite those built in brackets on the manifold, they're supposed to sit upright because they're full of oil.
 
No, he said it's a Duralast coil. From Autozone. It;s not full of oil. It's full of crap.
 
Done the ballast bypass thing before...burned up coil more than once. Not a good idea on stock type ignition system.
 
Ok tomorrow I am going to run it back from the ballast resistor to the ignition coil. Another question I have is I have a push button start. I have a switch for power then turn on with push button. Question do I just run it one side of the ballast with 12v and then on the other end of the ballast connect to the + side of the ignition coil? is that were I am getting the power to the ignition coil?
 
805moparkid said:
Blue streak CH-410 brass contact cap
Echlin MO-3000 long tip brass rotor
Ebay 500ohm Wires (im on my third car with them, great fit and price!)
hot coil
Click to expand...

Any chance you have either a link to, or more info on specifically which 500ohm wires you got on ebay? I see many choices on there when I search. Thanks.
 
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