head gasket

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I soaked them in 30w oil for a while before installing and yes coating the entire bolt. Using a click style torque wrench.
 
How about going with the standard blue fel pro .039 compressed head gaskets? May provide a better seal is case things aren't perfect. The 1/4-1/2 point loss you probably won't notice but maybe you won't have to tear into anytime soon. Some more food for thought.
 
How about going with the standard blue fel pro .039 compressed head gaskets? May provide a better seal is case things aren't perfect. The 1/4-1/2 point loss you probably won't notice but maybe you won't have to tear into anytime soon. Some more food for thought.


I had actually thought of that to be honest. A fel pro blue would put me in the 9.5 range now im in about 9.8. I have those gaskets here on hand from the gasket kit I bought. Just didnt want to lose compression is all.
 
You'll never know the difference.
 
72 Scamp Tramp

Your order form looks complete......
* Cylinder Head Bolts w/Washers {12-Point Hex-Head}
* Intake Gasket
* Exhaust Header Gasket
* Mr. Gasket .020" Steel Shim 'Embossed' Head Gasket.
* Copper Coat Gasket Sealant

Just have that 'Cylinder Head' {Pressure Tested} before assembly.

And 'run' your fingernails down that Cylinder Bore to make sure you do not
feel any hairline cracks.
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-8519pt1/overview/

Them would be the one that came in my kit. After looking it seems they have a compressed thickness of .039. I come up with 9.4 to 1 with them and 9.78 to 1 with the others. So about .4 tenths of compression loss.


Also this kit came with exhaust gaskets... Are header and manifold gaskets the same. Could I use these i have in the kit?
 
Remember,

440's 'love compression'.

If the 'Block' and 'Cylinder Head' surfaces are 'true' and show no signs of
abnormalities, the 'Steel Shim Gasket' is the way to go.

The Fel-Pro 'Perma-Torque' head gasket is by far the best sealing gasket out there,
and would use if there are imperfections in the block and head surfaces.

Also, the 'new' Cylinder Head Bolts will make about a {15%} tightening difference
over the 'older' and most likely stretched out Head Bolts.
 
Remember,

440's 'love compression'.

If the 'Block' and 'Cylinder Head' surfaces are 'true' and show no signs of
abnormalities, the 'Steel Shim Gasket is the way to go.

The Fel-Pro 'Perma-Torque' head gasket is by far the best sealing gasket out there,
and would use if there are imperfections in the block and head surfaces.

The 'new' Cylinder Head Bolts will make a difference over the 'older' and most likely stretched units.

You need to go read Jim Laroy's low compression 440 thread, if you haven't already. Good stuff. Started at 7.45:1 and ended with a whopping 7.85:1. lol Great numbers, though.
 
Get a good straightedge & really look at the deck & head. If you really don't come up with any sort of gap then you may be just fine with the steel shim & new bolts. Just wanted to give you another option.
 
Im already turning in circles lol. So many different levels of advice. Id like to keep the compression but then like the idea of using parts i have and saving money. Not to mention the idea of not having to tear it down again..... My reading suggest a 3-4% loss per pt of compression im at maybe a half.... Figuring 480hp and max loss of 4% puts me about 19hp.... if i were to cut that in half per say only 10hp loss. Im just thinking out loud here. Im really green in this area i guess.
 
Sorry bro, didn't mean to confuse you. You were on a roll. It's only gaskets & time. Either way.
 
You know something,

I've seen guys run Cylinder Heads with a 5 CC difference on each side of
an RB-Engine, and if it had good stuff {Cam, Pistons, Carb, Intake and Headers}
the Engine still ran great, with no problems.

One bank running 10.0 Compression, and the other at 9.4 Compression.

Nobody cared,,,,,,It's not that big of a deal.
 
You know something,

I've seen guys run Cylinder Heads with a 5 CC difference on each side of
an RB-Engine, and if it had good stuff {Cam, Pistons, Carb, Intake and Headers}
the Engine still ran great, with no problems.

One bank running 10.0 Compression, and the other at 9.4 Compression.

Nobody cared,,,,,,It's not that big of a deal.


Good to know. I guess either its 9.8 or 9.4 still gonna have a bad motor in a light A body right!:burnout:
 
Good to know. I guess either its 9.8 or 9.4 still gonna have a bad motor in a light A body right!:burnout:
Correct, I've seen guys run a 67' Hi-Po Closed Chamber Head on one bank, and an Open-Chamber on the other bank.

You couldn't hear any change in the Engine, and there was maybe only
slight difference in HP Output.
 
Correct, I've seen guys run a 67' Hi-Po Closed Chamber Head on one bank, and an Open-Chamber on the other bank.

You couldn't hear any change in the Engine, and there was maybe only
slight difference in HP Output.


My calculations arnt exact. Given the fact that 452 heads are listed at 88-92cc mine were milled flat just a skim.. Im guessing id be closer to that 88cc but who knows. I never had them cc'ed.. guess in theory my compression could be off a few tenths any how.
 
72 Scamp Tramp,

If you were running tight tolerances for NHRA specifications,
or 12.0-1 High Compression Racing Pistons, that would be a different issue.

For 'Street/Strip' applications under 10.0-1, you will not have any problems......
 
Absolutely erroneous. That's the stupidest thing I've ever heard. Your horsepower "loss" would barely show up on a dyno.

Wow. Tell us how you really feel.

I don't think you'd be able to tell the difference either unless you were looking for that extra tenth at the track.
 
ok ok. To drop 25 HP, you would have to lower compression by probably around one full point. Does that give you some perspective, Josh?
 
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