360 4bbl "getting well" (video)

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318willrun

318willrun

Utube channel 318willrun
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When I bought the '77 Ramcharger, I was able to drive it home but it really had no power, snapped through the carb if you gave it any amount of acceleration other than just creeping out of the hole. I found several things not right including spark jumping in weird spot in the dizzy, ignition timing off, vacuum leaks and the such. Got it sounding pretty good now, although I decided to put a new master cylinder on it so the old one is off. It has hardly been driven since 1999, so gotta chase some cobs.... LOL
 
Wow, you have that running nice. When you first hit the key I didn't even know it was running. Good job!
 
Nice looking toy! Started up crisp after you fixed it. Curious, is it part time 4x4 or full time?
 
racerdan80 said:
Nice looking toy! Started up crisp after you fixed it. Curious, is it part time 4x4 or full time?
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Full time. I'm not a 4x4 expert at all, but it has hi-loc and lo-loc along with the normal hi and lo. I guess Dodge changed that in 1981 ???? Also, 1980 was the last year for the removable top.
 
I had a 1978 Power Wagon pickup and it was full time 4 wheel drive, no free wheeling hubs.
 
Have heard the 203 can be a noisy transfer case due to the long chain internally. I still think it's cool that you can have full time 4wd. Kinda jealous
 
I thought about taking off the drive shaft to the front axle for the rest of the summer. does anyone know if there would be a negative effect from doing this???? My thinking is it would relieve the constant negotiations between the front and rear axles, for example like turning a sharp corner. Again, 4x4's aren't my fast draw shootin' iron, so any knowledgeable input would help.
 
Have manual locking hubs installed instead. Hubs unlocked, trans in hi loc, front drive shaft will spin but front wheels will free spin. In hi or lo unlock there is a differential in the transfer case. That is how the front and rear axles survive in full time on dry roads
 
racerdan80 said:
Have manual locking hubs installed instead. Hubs unlocked, trans in hi loc, front drive shaft will spin but front wheels will free spin. In hi or lo unlock there is a differential in the transfer case. That is how the front and rear axles survive in full time on dry roads
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But do you know if removing the front drive shaft for the "short term" will affect anything else? I did this once on a '99 Durango, but that was a total different set up. I'm not very 4x4 savy.... thanks
 
318willrun said:
But do you know if removing the front drive shaft for the "short term" will affect anything else? I did this once on a '99 Durango, but that was a total different set up. I'm not very 4x4 savy.... thanks
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You can absolutely remove the front shaft without any damage at all.
People did it all the time for exactly the reasons you want to.
(4x4 drivetrain certified here) well, used to be :D

It'll be easier on the front tires as well.
 
Sounds good! Time for a big block. LOL
 
I have the front removed in my durango right now while waiting for some more funds for parts.

Isnt there a conversion for that transfer case where the full time can be converted to part time? Also, I believe the hi and lo loc locks the transfer case up so the front and rear axles are locked just as a locker would do each side of an axle. Been awhile though.
 
TrailBeast said:
You can absolutely remove the front shaft without any damage at all.
People did it all the time for exactly the reasons you want to.
(4x4 drivetrain certified here) well, used to be :D

It'll be easier on the front tires as well.
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Thanks TrailBeast!!!
RustyRatRod said:
Sounds good! Time for a big block. LOL
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Yeah, gas mileage is going to be shot anyways, might as well have 440, right?? LOL
 
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