Finally, my first 360 and goals for it! I'll be asking a lot of questions.

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stixx said:
Are those double springs or single? Really hard to make out on the image...
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From what I could tell yesterday they are single, but I agree, some of them looked like they would be double. I'm gonna give them a closer look.
 
Alright. My plan was to have the heads milled some. After looking around for shops and getting quotes that would cost as much as getting speed pro pistons here in Sweden. Would it be wiser to get the pistons? I've never changed pistons before so I dont know what tools and work it requires. Im not scared to do it, I'm sure I will manage if I do the homework and go slow. Main concern is budget, and will it be worth it considering my goals for this engine as stated in post 1?
 
trebor75 said:
Do you have more info on that cam? And how you tell from the valve springs?
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If everything is on your motor is still factory stock, then the dampers on valve springs indicate it is a hi-pro engine. I'm not sure but I believe the hi-pro 360 used the same cam as the 340 which is .430/.444 lift 268/276 duration. Having said that this motor is over 40 yrs old it's hard to be certain if anything has been changed on since, it does have an aftermarket intake.
 
trebor75 said:
Alright. My plan was to have the heads milled some. After looking around for shops and getting quotes that would cost as much as getting speed pro pistons here in Sweden. Would it be wiser to get the pistons? I've never changed pistons before so I dont know what tools and work it requires. Im not scared to do it, I'm sure I will manage if I do the homework and go slow. Main concern is budget, and will it be worth it considering my goals for this engine as stated in post 1?
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The pistons on a 360 have a fixed pin, so they are a little trickier to replace. Watch some YouTube videos on it and you'll get a better idea on what's involved.
 
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How much is it to mow .030" off the heads there? To cost more than pistons + labor+ don't forget the balance may change w/the piston You chose........ man!!!
 
The places I found that have a good reputation costs about 160usd for milling the heads. How much can I take of the heads before I will need to mill the intake too?
 
318willrun said in some other thread that he had heads milled 0.040 without having to cut the intake. But every engine is a bit different so you'll have to see. 160$ for milling the heads is not that much... or did you plan to just slap the new pistons in there without going one size over (bore-hone-balance)?
 
stixx said:
318willrun said in some other thread that he had heads milled 0.040 without having to cut the intake. But every engine is a bit different so you'll have to see. 160$ for milling the heads is not that much... or did you plan to just slap the new pistons in there without going one size over (bore-hone-balance)?
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No, If I were doing pistons I would do it all the way. What I meant was head work equals pistons in price, not the actual job involved though. Pistons will end up being more pricey then just head work.
 
Pretty much,^^^^^^^^^,.040" is safe. Just test fit the intake w/the gaskets You're using, You may have to trim the bottom of the intake bolt holes a little, & port match the
heads to the intake gasket esp. at the very top. Those are dished pistons, but they look shallow, You should cc them before taking that eng. apart.
Many just seal the end rails w/a fat bead of black RTV, it works.
 
So, it looks like the most cost effective way would be to have the heads milled and reuse my solid 282s and valvetrain from my 273. I asked this before but got no answer. Could my Valve train from the 273 with adjustable rockers also be used with a hydralic cam, if I should choose to use that some other time?
 
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This is how they look. (Old photo)

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_25e2.jpg
 
- As mentioned, I've done .040 off heads several times, no issues. I will suggest you leave the cork gaskets off the end of the intake and just use a thick bead of RTV. I also use RTV around the water jackets and Indian Head shellac around the intake ports.
- Yes, your adjustable rockers/push rods will work bolt on those heads. It is what you need if going solid lift cam.
- I would suggest some mild home porting while your working over those heads. You could do that at home.
Here is a video that I made of an example of home porting heads with just common house hold tools.



 
318willrun said:
- As mentioned, I've done .040 off heads several times, no issues. I will suggest you leave the cork gaskets off the end of the intake and just use a thick bead of RTV. I also use RTV around the water jackets and Indian Head shellac around the intake ports.
- Yes, your adjustable rockers/push rods will work bolt on those heads. It is what you need if going solid lift cam.
- I would suggest some mild home porting while your working over those heads. You could do that at home.
Here is a video that I made of an example of home porting heads with just common house hold tools.



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Awesome with videos. Thanks! About the valvetrain, I know I need to use it for my solid cam, what I meant was, could it also be used for a hydralic cam?
 
Yes, but you may have change push rods (check the length) if you go hydraulic. I think the stamped rockers will work just as well thought, that is if you don't go to wild with the cam.
 
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Called the shop today. Asked if they could take 1.01600 millimeters (0.040"). He was VERY sceptical about milling the heads that much. Said I'd run into trouble with the intake manifold and every other thing that has been mentioned here before. Sounded on him that he would not go that far. I told him I would remove the head gaskets, place the heads in place again and then the intake manifold to see how that would work.

I'm planning on using the thin Mr. Gasket Head Gaskets 1121G. Is that thinner then the stock gasket? How much would I need to take of the heads to even see a change in compression using the 1121G?
 
trebor75 said:
How much would I need to take of the heads to even see a change in compression using the 1121G?
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The math on what is to gain with cutting the head has been posted on FABO quite a few times, and I am not even a regular... :)

There are calculators for that, or try the search function. Quick result for example is--> Head work questions
 
stixx said:
The math on what is to gain with cutting the head has been posted on FABO quite a few times, and I am not even a regular... :)

There are calculators for that, or try the search function. Quick result for example is--> Head work questions
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Sorry bout that, I get carried away some times. Also I'm a bit uncertain about the science behind this.
 
Now I have a question, how can you tell if your head have been already milled?
 
Your machinist must not do performance very often. Years ago I had a machinist say the same thing, he went blah blah blah and I said do it anyway. He did it and put on the receipt really big "cut .040 at customer request" and I had to sign it. LOL..... That project was about 20 years ago and those 360 heads are still on that 318 (I know the guy I sold that Dart to) and runs fine.
 
318willrun said:
Your machinist must not do performance very often. Years ago I had a machinist say the same thing, he went blah blah blah and I said do it anyway. He did it and put on the receipt really big "cut .040 at customer request" and I had to sign it. LOL..... That project was about 20 years ago and those 360 heads are still on that 318 (I know the guy I sold that Dart to) and runs fine.
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Now that the heads are removed I measured the gasket that was installed, it was about 0.035". I put the heads back on without gaskets and then put the intake back (with the gaskets that mounts to the heads, not the china wall). The intake now hits the two pins on the china walls. Do I remove them, if so, how, do they pull out with a plier?
 
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