Polishing Paint

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you seem pretty knowledgable o

u seem pretty knowledgable on this subject. what would u recommend for the first wax job on a new 2 stage paint job? deep blue w/ a clear coat. it was polished w/ purple haize before leaving the body shop. ??bob

Like Tim recommended, let it sit for some time to allow the paint to cure properly.

Purple Haze is a Dodo Juice product - very good stuff!

Dodo Juice Purple Haze Soft Wax - 250 ml | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

For your first wax, I'd say wash it with Dawn to strip off the original wax the body shop applied. Dry the car, then apply a sealant. I personally am a big fan of Blackfire products so I'd recommend their Wet Diamond.

Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection - 16 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

After you're, done, wax it with a good Carnauba wax. With your color being a deep blue, I'd recommend staying with a Dodo Juice product, either with the Purple Haze they used or with their Blue Velvet. Dodo Juice makes a great product.

Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard Wax - 250 ml | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

Yes, I know the products I provided links to are a bit on the pricey side, but you definitely get what you pay for. Believe me, I'd rather spend more on stuff that I'm confident will definitely protect a fresh paint job. Oh and in no way shape or form do I work for Detailed Image, they are just my go to shop for all my detailing needs and have been for years.
 
@MrJLR - You're in Chino, right? My parents live in Norco, not too far from you. Let me know if you'd like me to take a look at your car before you start rollin' up the sleeves to see if I can identify any questionable areas. I plan to be up there the weekend of the Auto Club 400 (3/25 & 3/26).

Or if you'd rather post up some shots of any areas you might be worried about, we can all offer our help.
 
famous bob, usually its a 60 day wait before applying any sealant based wax to a new paint job. Its ok in the meantime to apply a "glaze" type product thats specific for brand new paint so your paint is allowed to "gas" off. Its important when applying vinyl stripe to allow paint cure also. There is a ton of different waxes to use but I've found "New Finish" liquid wax is a great product. Easy to use and wipe off. Keep a good coat of wax on your new paint every 3 months and your set.
Correct, you could damage the metallics if the paint has been cut/buffed several times and is almost exposing the flake or been sun baked. You definately DO Not want to wetsand single stage metallic paint or its garbage,however most finishes in the recent years are clearcoated. If OP has a clearcoat, hes got not too much to worry about.......
 
@MrJLR - You're in Chino, right? My parents live in Norco, not too far from you. Let me know if you'd like me to take a look at your car before you start rollin' up the sleeves to see if I can identify any questionable areas. I plan to be up there the weekend of the Auto Club 400 (3/25 & 3/26).

Or if you'd rather post up some shots of any areas you might be worried about, we can all offer our help.
Absolutely....if I don't start this weekend....thank you!

Jeff
 
Like Tim recommended, let it sit for some time to allow the paint to cure properly.

Purple Haze is a Dodo Juice product - very good stuff!

Dodo Juice Purple Haze Soft Wax - 250 ml | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

For your first wax, I'd say wash it with Dawn to strip off the original wax the body shop applied. Dry the car, then apply a sealant. I personally am a big fan of Blackfire products so I'd recommend their Wet Diamond.

Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection - 16 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

After you're, done, wax it with a good Carnauba wax. With your color being a deep blue, I'd recommend staying with a Dodo Juice product, either with the Purple Haze they used or with their Blue Velvet. Dodo Juice makes a great product.

Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard Wax - 250 ml | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

Yes, I know the products I provided links to are a bit on the pricey side, but you definitely get what you pay for. Believe me, I'd rather spend more on stuff that I'm confident will definitely protect a fresh paint job. Oh and in no way shape or form do I work for Detailed Image, they are just my go to shop for all my detailing needs and have been for years.
thanks guys. it is well gassed out, it`s only been out of the garage 4-5 times while I`ve been finishing the build. painted about 6-7 months ago. Only have about 150 miles on it
 
@MrJLR - You're in Chino, right? My parents live in Norco, not too far from you. Let me know if you'd like me to take a look at your car before you start rollin' up the sleeves to see if I can identify any questionable areas. I plan to be up there the weekend of the Auto Club 400 (3/25 & 3/26).

Or if you'd rather post up some shots of any areas you might be worried about, we can all offer our help.
I have been detailing, paint correction and painting for quite a few years now. Gamedog has given you some very solid advice, as my polish of choice is always menzerna the 105 and 205 recommendations gamedog posted are right up there with the menzernas and they are more locally available. its hard to damage paint, single stage or 2k with an orbital, its all about starting with the lightest cut and pad you have and working your way to more aggressive until you find the winning combo to correct the marring.

if you want to absolutely fix your marring you will not use anything that says glaze. glaze is an oil bath that "hides" imperfections. they only last a few weeks, or 1 rain. then here come the imperfections back.

there is alot i could write but like i said gamedog has very similar process to mine. and most of it would be just repeating him.
if you are really interested in good products that work and seeing how to's i would suggest you go to autopia.org join the forums. you will learn alot there.

paint correction is a process that takes practice, dont expect to get it right the first time. but once you do, you will be grinning. LOL
 
@kris hines I agree, what I posted is literally just a snippet of what the wonderful world of detailing entails. Like you said, when done correctly, it can make a world of a difference.

Here's a fun 50/50 shot of what it can do to an old tired paint job just for ***** and gigs:

IMG_2437.jpg


Did this paint correction on my brother in law's Ford Ranger for a 30 pack of Miller Lites and a rare Porterhouse Steak :) Dude was ready to repaint his truck. I told him to let me get after it to see what happened...

Paint conditions before:

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After :

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Fun stuff!
 
@kris hines I agree, what I posted is literally just a snippet of what the wonderful world of detailing entails. Like you said, when done correctly, it can make a world of a difference.

Here's a fun 50/50 shot of what it can do to an old tired paint job just for ***** and gigs:

View attachment 1715028627

Did this paint correction on my brother in law's Ford Ranger for a 30 pack of Miller Lites and a rare Porterhouse Steak :) Dude was ready to repaint his truck. I told him to let me get after it to see what happened...

Paint conditions before:

View attachment 1715028628

View attachment 1715028629

View attachment 1715028630



After :

View attachment 1715028631

View attachment 1715028632

View attachment 1715028633

View attachment 1715028634

View attachment 1715028635

Fun stuff!
Thats what were talkin 'bout! Never know until you try a spot, nicely done
 
The one kid that works for me flips cars on the side. He can literally polish turds. Amazing what a cut and polish can do.
 
Jeff, there is one thing nobody has mentioned yet. Please tape off or hand polish around the cowl vent because if you get any compound, polish or wax in between the ribs its there forever!!
 
Jeff, there is one thing nobody has mentioned yet. Please tape off or hand polish around the cowl vent because if you get any compound, polish or wax in between the ribs its there forever!!
Good point!

Jeff
 
Jeff, there is one thing nobody has mentioned yet. Please tape off or hand polish around the cowl vent because if you get any compound, polish or wax in between the ribs its there forever!!
agreed, you wouldn`t believe how many hrs I worked and sanded on those little grooves, trying to get them level, spaced the same w/ each other and sanded properly.
 
This weekend I'm going to try to polish the paint on my 68 Barracuda.
There are several areas that look rather "flat" and don't really shine well.....
Paint job is of unknown age and I don't even know if it was clear coated.....
Hoping to bring some shine, depth and color back out...

Any advice before I start?

View attachment 1715028455

Jeff

I wash my car with a terry cloth rag and a green can of Comet. It won't scratch delicate surfaces, use it in the shade and work a 3' x3' section at a time. Rinse and rub the surface with a bare hand. Takes about 30 minutes. Figure double that the first time you do it.

I use it on all parts of the car, glass, chrome, paint and rubber. It looks like I spent 2 days with a buffer. Been doing it on light colored cars for 30+ years. Nothing cleans better. Put the Comet on the wet terry cloth, not directly on the car.

Spring Fling.PNG
 
I wash my car with a terry cloth rag and a green can of Comet. It won't scratch delicate surfaces, use it in the shade and work a 3' x3' section at a time. Rinse and rub the surface with a bare hand. Takes about 30 minutes. Figure double that the first time you do it.

I use it on all parts of the car, glass, chrome, paint and rubber. It looks like I spent 2 days with a buffer. Been doing it on light colored cars for 30+ years. Nothing cleans better. Put the Comet on the wet terry cloth, not directly on the car.

View attachment 1715028955
You do realize comet is an abrasive, as well as a terry cloth. anytime you rub your car with anything, you are causing micro marring. scratch yeah it doesnt scratch , but marring, it will mar badly. on light color cars you wont notice this as easily (someone that details and does paint correction will undoubtedly notice), but any metallic, pearl or dark color car this will be very noticeable. another thing people do that increases the marring and swirl intensity is the Mr. Miygai technique. dont do circles........paint the fence when washing and drying cars.... left and right straight motions.

why not use the things made to do a certain job? car wash and washing sponges/microfiber towels are all designed for a reason. they cut down on the micro marring you are doing.......... just because gear oil lubricates doesnt mean you would replace your engine oil with it.........right?
 
I wash my car with a terry cloth rag and a green can of Comet. It won't scratch delicate surfaces, use it in the shade and work a 3' x3' section at a time. Rinse and rub the surface with a bare hand. Takes about 30 minutes. Figure double that the first time you do it.

I use it on all parts of the car, glass, chrome, paint and rubber. It looks like I spent 2 days with a buffer. Been doing it on light colored cars for 30+ years. Nothing cleans better. Put the Comet on the wet terry cloth, not directly on the car.

View attachment 1715028955

Huh?
 
I wash my car with a terry cloth rag and a green can of Comet. It won't scratch delicate surfaces, use it in the shade and work a 3' x3' section at a time. Rinse and rub the surface with a bare hand. Takes about 30 minutes. Figure double that the first time you do it.

I use it on all parts of the car, glass, chrome, paint and rubber. It looks like I spent 2 days with a buffer. Been doing it on light colored cars for 30+ years. Nothing cleans better. Put the Comet on the wet terry cloth, not directly on the car.

View attachment 1715028955

wtf042.gif
 
Comet,
Not that much different then what we used to call a compound bath. Used ol' Tiger Cut lacquer rubbing compound, Bon Ami, Comet. When you pull your wash mit out the bucket load it with compound and go to scrubbing. Works wonders on a light colored car that's been stained up. Done in 20 minutes and skip the whole compounding step, straight to polishing. It's an old school dealer toss it on the lot trick. It works. I still do it. Works great on fiberglass rv's boats etc.

Don't knock it till you tried it. Great detailing trick that can save a ton of time in the right circumstance. Not much different then pushing a clay bar and less abrasive then buffing with compound.
 
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Ok...well I did the passenger side of the hood....huge difference!
Swirls are 99% gone...reflectivity is way up...

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Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish
I think it's worth the effort!

Jeff
 
Comet,
Not that much different then what we used to call a compound bath. Used ol' Tiger Cut lacquer rubbing compound, Bon Ami, Comet. When you pull your wash mit out the bucket load it with compound and go to scrubbing. Works wonders on a light colored car that's been stained up. Done in 20 minutes and skip the whole compounding step, straight to polishing. It's an old school dealer toss it on the lot trick. It works. I still do it. Works great on fiberglass rv's boats etc.

Don't knock it till you tried it. Great detailing trick that can save a ton of time in the right circumstance.

old dealer detailing trick........doesn't say much about the trick, no dealer i have ever been to has been able to properly detail a car. I have used comet 2 times, both were to remove full car heavy oxidation off of single stage paint because it clogs up a detailing pad something bad. the only occasions i have ever had to compound an entire car was after it was freshly painted and wetsanded, any other time it has been spot compounding followed by polishing.

Just because its an old trick doesn't mean its a good trick. it should never be used on a clear coat. ever........ you only have so much clear. dont sand it down with comet.....LOL
 
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