Polishing Paint

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MrJLR

Built, not bought
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This weekend I'm going to try to polish the paint on my 68 Barracuda.
There are several areas that look rather "flat" and don't really shine well.....
Paint job is of unknown age and I don't even know if it was clear coated.....
Hoping to bring some shine, depth and color back out...

Any advice before I start?

20150823_134632_zpsbis8fpwh.jpg


Jeff
 
Don't know much myself but I do know from a little bit of experience and watching a buddy of mine do the paint on my survivor car is to keep the surface wet, especially if you are using a buffing machine. I will also say the brand of polish he used was called Menzerna. I don't remember the type of polish he used off the top of my head though.
 
Don't know much myself but I do know from a little bit of experience and watching a buddy of mine do the paint on my survivor car is to keep the surface wet, especially if you are using a buffing machine. I will also say the brand of polish he used was called Menzerna. I don't remember the type of polish he used off the top of my head though.
Good tip #1....thanks!

Jeff
 
I would do A small section of dull area first.
Wouldn't even wetsand to start. You don't know how much paint material is there. Use a medium cut buff compound at most.
Do a 1 foot by 2 foot flat area first. If you don't have experience with
A real buffing machine, have someone do it who does.
They will know after 2 minutes if that finish will shine and be
Acceptable.you will know in a hurry if buffer starts to remove paint through to sealer or primer.
You could certainly try to do by hand but takes forever.

Good luck
 
I always cruise the Meguiars forum, lots of good info there.
 
I'm gonna do my best to get some real good before and after pics. ....

Jeff
 
Porter cable orbitor buffer. Griots garage pads. 3m compound. Meguires Polish and finally mequires wax. Take your time. Takes me 8 hours for all three steps for one car.
 
I would use a non orbital speed adjustable buffer with a 7" pad and sheepskin cover. Start with medium cut compound and a garden hose at the ready. Keep it soaked good then go to fine compound, do whole car and wash with clear water. Then I would do the whole car again with fresh pad and glaze compound, washing with clear water as I went. Finish and dry, wax as desired and you have it!
I tape the sharp edges so I don't rub through. Just how I do it.
 
I would use a non orbital speed adjustable buffer with a 7" pad and sheepskin cover. Start with medium cut compound and a garden hose at the ready. Keep it soaked good then go to fine compound, do whole car and wash with clear water. Then I would do the whole car again with fresh pad and glaze compound, washing with clear water as I went. Finish and dry, wax as desired and you have it!
I tape the sharp edges so I don't rub through. Just how I do it.

Good point on the non orbital buffer. The orbital ones are hard to control and keep even pressure
 
OK this is going to be a bit long because polishing is more than just polishing...

I do polishing/paint correction for family and friends as more of hobby than anything else, but I have done show cars for Sema and other shows in the past to make some side cash.

Definitely at least get the Porter Cable polisher like someone else suggested. It's a good mid-level polisher that will get the job done and is fairly easy to use. I personally use a Cyclo Dual Orbital and love it.

I'd recommend washing the car with Dawn dish soap to strip off any existing waxes and/or sealants.

After that, use a clay bar to remove and contaminants that might be embedded in the paint. If you don't feel like doing the whole car (could take an hour or so), just hit the major areas susceptible to contaminants (front bumper, hood, front fenders and at panels behind wheels). You can pick up a cheap Meguiars clay bar at Auto Zone or O'Reilly for around $5 or so. With a latex glove on (or even bare handed) rip it in half, spray it with your favorite quick detailer to get it nice and slick, and start going to town on the areas you want to, while spraying the areas your working on with the quick detailer. Make sure to keep the surface slick. You'll be amazed at how much gunk you'll pick up with the clay bar. After you're done, you want to wash the car again, this time with your regular car, wash soap (I personally love Poorboys Super Slick n Suds Super Slick & Suds Car Wash - Poorboy's World™ Inc.

After washing, break out the Porter Cable, throw on a white or blue pad (lighter cutting), out a few drops of a light cutting polishing compound (something like Meguiars M205 Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 8 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image) and start off with a small area. Work slow, moving the pad an inch or so per second with little pressure. After you're done with a 2'x2' area, shut it off and wipe it down with a microfiber towel to see what you've got going on. Use a good halogen lamp or even an LED flashlight to look for imperfections still showing through the paint. If you see good enough results just using the light cutting compound, by all means, move forward with it around the entire car using the same method. You'll likely use a few pads and a decent amount of microfiber towels (they get saturated with product) so be sure to stock up.

If you notice a lot of imperfections, slap on a yellow pad and use Meguiars M105, which is a deeper cutting compound. Use the same method. Know that of you do this, you'll have to follow it with M205 after you're done as the paint will have a hazing to it.

Once you're done, you can apply what ever carnauba based wax you desire. I do most of my wax application by hand, but some like to use the Porter Cable too.

After you're done, you should have a dam good looking car!

Note - I usually spend anywhere from 10 to 30 hours on one car, so be sure to be patient when doing this. It'll all be worth it in the end!
 
you seem pretty knowledgable o
OK this is going to be a bit long because polishing is more than just polishing...

I do polishing/paint correction for family and friends as more of hobby than anything else, but I have done show cars for Sema and other shows in the past to make some side cash.

Definitely at least get the Porter Cable polisher like someone else suggested. It's a good mid-level polisher that will get the job done and is fairly easy to use. I personally use a Cyclo Dual Orbital and love it.

I'd recommend washing the car with Dawn dish soap to strip off any existing waxes and/or sealants.

After that, use a clay bar to remove and contaminants that might be embedded in the paint. If you don't feel like doing the whole car (could take an hour or so), just hit the major areas susceptible to contaminants (front bumper, hood, front fenders and at panels behind wheels). You can pick up a cheap Meguiars clay bar at Auto Zone or O'Reilly for around $5 or so. With a latex glove on (or even bare handed) rip it in half, spray it with your favorite quick detailer to get it nice and slick, and start going to town on the areas you want to, while spraying the areas your working on with the quick detailer. Make sure to keep the surface slick. You'll be amazed at how much gunk you'll pick up with the clay bar. After you're done, you want to wash the car again, this time with your regular car, wash soap (I personally love Poorboys Super Slick n Suds Super Slick & Suds Car Wash - Poorboy's World™ Inc.

After washing, break out the Porter Cable, throw on a white or blue pad (lighter cutting), out a few drops of a light cutting polishing compound (something like Meguiars M205 Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 8 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image) and start off with a small area. Work slow, moving the pad an inch or so per second with little pressure. After you're done with a 2'x2' area, shut it off and wipe it down with a microfiber towel to see what you've got going on. Use a good halogen lamp or even an LED flashlight to look for imperfections still showing through the paint. If you see good enough results just using the light cutting compound, by all means, move forward with it around the entire car using the same method. You'll likely use a few pads and a decent amount of microfiber towels (they get saturated with product) so be sure to stock up.

If you notice a lot of imperfections, slap on a yellow pad and use Meguiars M105, which is a deeper cutting compound. Use the same method. Know that of you do this, you'll have to follow it with M205 after you're done as the paint will have a hazing to it.

Once you're done, you can apply what ever carnauba based wax you desire. I do most of my wax application by hand, but some like to use the Porter Cable too.

After you're done, you should have a dam good looking car!

Note - I usually spend anywhere from 10 to 30 hours on one car, so be sure to be patient when doing this. It'll all be worth it in the end!
u seem pretty knowledgable on this subject. what would u recommend for the first wax job on a new 2 stage paint job? deep blue w/ a clear coat. it was polished w/ purple haize before leaving the body shop. ??bob
 
OK this is going to be a bit long because polishing is more than just polishing...

I do polishing/paint correction for family and friends as more of hobby than anything else, but I have done show cars for Sema and other shows in the past to make some side cash.

Definitely at least get the Porter Cable polisher like someone else suggested. It's a good mid-level polisher that will get the job done and is fairly easy to use. I personally use a Cyclo Dual Orbital and love it.

I'd recommend washing the car with Dawn dish soap to strip off any existing waxes and/or sealants.

After that, use a clay bar to remove and contaminants that might be embedded in the paint. If you don't feel like doing the whole car (could take an hour or so), just hit the major areas susceptible to contaminants (front bumper, hood, front fenders and at panels behind wheels). You can pick up a cheap Meguiars clay bar at Auto Zone or O'Reilly for around $5 or so. With a latex glove on (or even bare handed) rip it in half, spray it with your favorite quick detailer to get it nice and slick, and start going to town on the areas you want to, while spraying the areas your working on with the quick detailer. Make sure to keep the surface slick. You'll be amazed at how much gunk you'll pick up with the clay bar. After you're done, you want to wash the car again, this time with your regular car, wash soap (I personally love Poorboys Super Slick n Suds Super Slick & Suds Car Wash - Poorboy's World™ Inc.

After washing, break out the Porter Cable, throw on a white or blue pad (lighter cutting), out a few drops of a light cutting polishing compound (something like Meguiars M205 Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 8 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image) and start off with a small area. Work slow, moving the pad an inch or so per second with little pressure. After you're done with a 2'x2' area, shut it off and wipe it down with a microfiber towel to see what you've got going on. Use a good halogen lamp or even an LED flashlight to look for imperfections still showing through the paint. If you see good enough results just using the light cutting compound, by all means, move forward with it around the entire car using the same method. You'll likely use a few pads and a decent amount of microfiber towels (they get saturated with product) so be sure to stock up.

If you notice a lot of imperfections, slap on a yellow pad and use Meguiars M105, which is a deeper cutting compound. Use the same method. Know that of you do this, you'll have to follow it with M205 after you're done as the paint will have a hazing to it.

Once you're done, you can apply what ever carnauba based wax you desire. I do most of my wax application by hand, but some like to use the Porter Cable too.

After you're done, you should have a dam good looking car!

Note - I usually spend anywhere from 10 to 30 hours on one car, so be sure to be patient when doing this. It'll all be worth it in the end!
Google tips there !
Thank you!

Jeff
 
After buying the buffer, pads, towels, compounds, ect, wouldn't it be a break even to get it professionally done? Kinda like when I had my gutters done. @$500 for materials, probably turn out ok, and I have to do it. Instead the pro did it for $420 with better materials, it came out perfect, and I didn't have to do it. I think my friends shop used to charge a couple hundred bucks.
 
you seem pretty knowledgable o

u seem pretty knowledgable on this subject. what would u recommend for the first wax job on a new 2 stage paint job? deep blue w/ a clear coat. it was polished w/ purple haize before leaving the body shop. ??bob
famous bob, usually its a 60 day wait before applying any sealant based wax to a new paint job. Its ok in the meantime to apply a "glaze" type product thats specific for brand new paint so your paint is allowed to "gas" off. Its important when applying vinyl stripe to allow paint cure also.
There is a ton of different waxes to use but I've found "New Finish" liquid wax is a great product. Easy to use and wipe off. Keep a good coat of wax on your new paint every 3 months and your set.
 
I'm going to advise you to take the car to a professional detailer or body shop.

I pay 200-250 for a full strip/cut if needed/polish/wax/ seal and that includes the inside of the car as well. I can read the letter on the insulation on the ceiling in the hood of my car. This isn't worth doing yourself. buff through and you just spent 500$ at least.
 
Don't be afraid to try some version of the above and learn something. No need to get carried away with your first attempt. I have brought a lot of cars back with a $50 Walmart buffer and $10 worth of compound. 4-5 hours and you are on your way. And you learn something. Write the check and learn nothing except how to deplete your checking account.
JMHO------------------Rat---------------------:)
 
It looks fine to me.
I would not do a thing.
If you feel you must work on some spots, do it by hand.
Lots less chance of damage. (And it's more cost efficient with one car.)
Never might the truism "Perfect is the enemy of good" apply more.
 
If your car is a single stage metallic (it looks like it is a metallic.), if you cut and/or buff it, you could discolor and basically ruin your paint.

Correct, you could damage the metallics if the paint has been cut/buffed several times and
is almost exposing the flake or been sun baked. You definately DO Not want to wetsand single
stage metallic paint or its garbage,however most finishes in the recent years are clearcoated.
If OP has a clearcoat, hes got not too much to worry about.......
 
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