340 Oil filter adapter

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69swinger340391

69swinger340391

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I have a 69 Dart Swinger 340 with original exhaust manifolds. Could someone post a picture of the correct position to mount the 90 degree oil filter adapter?

Thanks
 
you dont want to use the adapter unless absolutely necessary, and it shouldnt be with you stock manifolds, use the short filter
 
Sanguine said:
you don't want to use the adapter unless absolutely necessary, and it shouldn't be with you stock manifolds, use the short filter
Click to expand...

I am wondering what is the purpose of the 90 degree adapter? I was thinking maybe later getting one so I can avoid the mess that happens when I unscrew the filter straight from the block. At least the 90 degree wouldn't make such a mess with oil running down the filter.
 
mullinax95 said:
I am wondering what is the purpose of the 90 degree adapter? I was thinking maybe later getting one so I can avoid the mess that happens when I unscrew the filter straight from the block. At least the 90 degree wouldn't make such a mess with oil running down the filter.
Click to expand...


well on some body types it was needed because the room for the filter was not there. That being said the 90s do casue some restriction and for most engines though are not a big deal. In a high rev track car yep is an issue, oh and some people have issues with oil leaks from incorect supplied seals etc. If you must stay with a 90 I think canton makes the best unit I have seen.
 
Got pictures of these Canton's? I have never heard that they are restrictive. I've seen guys have leaks with the regular style also.

Really they are still messy. You can't take them straight down cause then the filter will hit the pan. I tried, I tilted my down as far as I could though. I also took an aluminum one off a 88 fifth avenue and put on mine instead of the cast iron one that I had.

Lee
 
Im just using a short filter this time.. My last 340 had the 90* adapter on it and I never had a problem with it.

IM000910.jpg
 
Never had issues either on my street car. But at a constant high RPM there are restrictions in the oil flow, can be an issue on some applications. We mostly talk about pressure, but it is the flow that is most important, and a restriction will cause high pressure, but can result in low flow. The more flow to a point will allow better lube, and cooler parts.

Anyway here is the straight plate: You can call them and they have a billet unit as well in a 90 with higher than stock flow, and the swivel remove adapters are nice. That is what I went for, dont want oil dripping on headers any more. So i went with a remote mount and it also helped me to add 2 qts to my 6 qt pan.

SB Mopar Aluminum Oil Filter Plate
(#22-575)
Direct replacement for Mopar part # 2402-103 filter plate. Improved design compared to OEM steel plate. CNC machined from billet aluminum for a precise fit. O-ring seal eliminates failure prone to flat paper gasket. Oil flow capacity increased by 100%. This part is compatible with OEM style spin on filters, Our CM spin on filter #'s 25-262 and 25-462, and our 90 deg. remote filter adapter # 22-595.
 
If you want even more room use a 2.2 or 2.5 filter like off of a Shadow/Omni/Spirit etc. basically and 2.2 or 2.5 4 cylinder. I use them on my cars and it is a ton more room.


Chuck
 
340mopar said:
If you want even more room use a 2.2 or 2.5 filter like off of a Shadow/Omni/Spirit etc. basically and 2.2 or 2.5 4 cylinder. I use them on my cars and it is a ton more room.


Chuck
Click to expand...

do you change your oil/filter more offten now
 
I needed one on mine because the regular filter would hit the headers. You can clock it almost any way you like.

47b7da26b3127cce8331f46355c200000016100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg


-dave
 
littleman66 said:
do you change your oil/filter more offten now
Click to expand...

No, The oil change interval on the 2.2/2.5 is the same as the other motors. With the advent of sealed motors, more refined/cleaner oils the need for large filters is not like it used to be. Most all cars now have much smaller filters than the older counterparts. But if it did bother someone you could change the filter twice for every oil change. But there isn't the need too.


Chuck
 
djwhog said:
So i went with a remote mount and it also helped me to add 2 qts to my 6 qt pan.
Click to expand...

I have either some parts or all of them for a remote mount oil filter but it was for a 383 engine. The mounting plate might be a little different since now I have a small block. I'll have check it out and see.
 
There are some better adapters now (remote, etc.) and headers that are designed to clear the filters better in the first place, so many times adapters aren't even required. But when I first started fooling with the small blocks, you either ran the 90 degree adapter or the short filter. And guys I've been running the 90 degree adapter for 35 years on many different small blocks, and have NEVER had a single problem that could be attributed to the 90 degree adapter use.
 
every 90 degree turn the oil makes it cuts the flow down a significant amount

I use a short filter and i drilled an extra 4 holes in the plate, so it has 8 rather than 4
 
Sanguine said:
every 90 degree turn the oil makes it cuts the flow down a significant amount

I use a short filter and i drilled an extra 4 holes in the plate, so it has 8 rather than 4
Click to expand...

Yes, that will certainly work. But I stand by my post, in that a 90 degree oil filter adapter can and has been used very effectively over a long period of time with no ill effects. I would not hesitate in the least to use one again if needed to overcome clearance issues etc.
 
what is this short filter you guys are talking about, i know with my adaptor i use the ph43(thats frams pn) how can i make the filter bolt right to the block isnt the whole to big to just screw the filter to the block, also i dont have the right screw to make the block a male so i can screw the oil filter(female) to it. where can i get the parts to do this.
 
I've got the longest one I could get for mine it lacks a 1/2 in from hitting my torsion bar.

Lee
 
I run the Dakota/Durango V6 filter...Napa P/N 1348. It's half the size of the 1086 filter which is the factory filter for the V8 Duster. I don't change my oil any sooner either. I also use the 90* adaptor but I champhered all the holes and smoothed the walls where the oil flows.
 
AdamR said:
Im just using a short filter this time.. My last 340 had the 90* adapter on it and I never had a problem with it.

IM000910.jpg
Click to expand...
hey adam , maybe it is just me but isn't the heat from the header pipes going to be kind close to the filter? looks like it would cook the filter like that. i would think a 90* adapter would help you at least move it back away from some of that heat from those pipes. just my 2 cents....
 
Theres more room then it looks but Im sure moving it further away would keep it cooler. 6 of one half dozen of the other I guess.
 
Years ago when I had one on my 360 with headers, the long and short filter would not clear ( changing them was always an oily mess on the headers and frame rail) so I used a Fram 3600 ( i believe) it was the same length of the PH8a but just a lot smaller in diameter almost identical flow and operation rates. With that said; fram filters internally are no long the same as they were before the by out. I run the Napa Golds (PN#1515- same as the PH8a) internally they are a spring loaded filter and not a bent wavy washer to keep the filter portion tight sealed internally. The new frams are just a wavy piece of tin that next to a header will weaken and allow for oil to bypass the filter and not go thru. I own a garage and actually cut open a few oil filters they have come thru the shop. The Napa and the high end filters like Royal purple type racing filters are the only ones that still use a spring. Honestly the heat will effect any filter. A full remote one is good. Using a 90degree Mopar adapter filter like the ones talked about above but tapping it for remote lines to a different filter base is the best solution if you cannot direct pipe to the block oil filter base.

As for the guys running the really small 2.2 filters... do you really want to chance your engine to that small amount of medium? Small filter is nice but personally to me its a lot less filter. It may work great and perfectly fine as I am no filter expert. But all filters have anti drain back or no drain back features. By pass pressure and relief pressures and operating temperatures and a bunch of other things to consider and just because it fits, does not mean it is the right one. Go to the Fleet Guard catalog on line and they have a filter conversion ability online and also you can look up the specs on just about any filter. Look at a factory filter and its specs and size and go from there.
Good luck,
Joe
 
Wow! Raised from the dead thread.
Nice to see someone reading this far back.

Anybody have a diagram/pictures of how the stock 90* goes together?
Just figured it would be good to post!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Wow! Raised from the dead thread.
Nice to see someone reading this far back.

Anybody have a diagram/pictures of how the stock 90* goes together?
Just figured it would be good to post!
Click to expand...

It points rearward with a slight downward angle of about 5 - 10 degrees...

Here's two engines that had it from the factory...

Here you go:

DSC03890 B.jpg


DSC03891 B.jpg


DSC03892 B.jpg


DSC03893 B.jpg


DSC03894 B.jpg
 
Ok...So Mine has (Will Have) the same exhaust Manifold as Pictured above....Will the oil filter clear the Exhaust Manifold without issues??
Don't know IF I must get an an adapter,use a shorty,Or id a standard filter will still work.
From this angle,It loos like it will be fime as is,But not sure about Heat Issues?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,Eric
 
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