what is the plastic washer supposed to do? I could not find any oil holes and the shaft is smooth, no way for oil to climb the shaft. There was no signs that oil had gotten up to this point in the past. I assume they used self lubricating bushings.
The tale of the $350.00 distributor
- Thread starter Dana67Dart
- Start date
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Not sure what the grinding says about the "original" dist. The numbers are 2642805 35 6 I assume that 2642805 is part number, 35 is work week and 6 is year which fits for 67 dart delivered 2-67 that would be 4 months before delivery seems reasonable but maybe a tad too early?
This is the coil no markings except made in the USA and the + and - Posts are D shaped.
Did I mention 2 ohms + to - and 11.5K center to + or - look like it is still good!
This is the coil no markings except made in the USA and the + and - Posts are D shaped.
Did I mention 2 ohms + to - and 11.5K center to + or - look like it is still good!
no that is the right dist, 6 months before is typical, I know squat about the coil shape not the guy for that, The oil splashes up from the bottom into the distributor that is the reason they use those stupid nylon bushings in the bottom to hold them together. Now the MP distributors have a flat washer built into the bushing no idea why kind of defeats the oiling? I have to take a pic next time I have bushings out.
That's from wear, one of the reasons I change them bet that washer was like a hulahoop on there. Here is a pic of a late model shaft you can see the spiral groves up the shaft that carries a bit of oil to lube the bushings, that plastic washer keeps it in the shaft area away from the points, the cup style have a 1/8" hole into the bushing and felt in the tube to wick the oil on the shaft so no top washer is needed the oil travels down in that case.
Oh crap now I see the whole reason for failure that shaft in your picture has no spiral and no oil cup on the housing either?
Had to happen out of the car in his shop prob? No idea but not when it was in unless you were using say a sander in there, It actually can be worked out slowly with sandpaper etc like any aluminum if you want it gone.
Man we are CSI ing this thing for sure!
That a 273 2bbl? That's what I get from the number on the original one last 4 2805?
sorry here is a pic1
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
So apparently the points distributors don't have the nylon spacer bushing between the advance weights plate and the distributor top bushing?
Nope, just looked it up and they don't.
Nope, just looked it up and they don't.
My original dist has a spiral and a oil hole. the bad reman has neither. The reman upper shaft looks good and still fits tight side to side in the bushing. It just had too much slop up and down from the upper bushing being warn down.
Depend what year, actuallu it is not there if it has a oil cup, now that said they do fall off and also some have the drilled boss there but not into the bushing to oil the shaft and they do have them, if it is solid on the base of the cup no "washer" sorry no pic right now on it, does not have that hollow ribbed area, pretty obvious when you see it and a smooth shaft also.
Yes 273 2bbl CAP california car. also the dist clamps on the original dist were green??? could be to differentiate the CAP dis from the non CAP dis?
I love CSI!
Was the bottom nylon busing in the pic installed in that same way? Almost looks like if you flipped it it would have tightened up to me. I do know when I spin them up when the weights extend it wants to raise the main shaft up and lowers it when the rpms drop down, Seriously think no plastic and it might have slapped down on the bushing, just a thought. I am not positive when the spiral started might have been when the oil cup was still going on I do know 66 and back are smooth for sure with a oil cup. Hmm great question, just like that large number on them when/what the hell is that for? No answers from any one yet on it! And they are not on all of them either!
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
You might like this from Hemmings about the Mopar points distributor.
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2007/01/The-Lost-Art-of---/1392757.html
The cap clamps are all natural (blued) steel, only ones I have seen in color are painted.
LOL have that saved great article.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I agreed with you because of the flipping the collar mention.
Didn't those have a shouldered top on the upper bushing?
Except for something missing between the two I don't see how it hit the bottom of the casing.
Yep.
It does look like the collar could be flipped then 180 the shaft to get the pin opening lined up and slip it back up there.
Doesn't explain the hitting inside the case.
Didn't those have a shouldered brass upper bushing that the shaft sat on?
The original dist had almost no play up and down maybe 1 thou. there was a plastic retainer ring at the bottom but I didn't take a photo and didn't pay attention to the orientation.
I measured the thrust washers on the reman and the bottom was 28 thou, the upper was 27.5 thou and the warn out part was another 1-2 thou thinner. The upper bushing was between 79 and 100 thou taller than the housing. the bottom bushing was flush with the housing and looked to have minimal wear
No just the end of the bushing itself 1/32" above the floor, that is about the thickness of that washer it is missing also.I agreed with you because of the flipping the collar mention.
Didn't those have a shouldered top on the upper bushing?
Except for something missing between the two I don't see how it hit the bottom of the casing.
Yep.
It does look like the collar could be flipped then 180 the shaft to get the pin opening lined up and slip it back up there.
Doesn't explain the hitting inside the case.
Didn't those have a shouldered brass upper bushing that the shaft sat on?
I agreed with you because of the flipping the collar mention.
Didn't those have a shouldered top on the upper bushing?
Except for something missing between the two I don't see how it hit the bottom of the casing.
Yep.
It does look like the collar could be flipped then 180 the shaft to get the pin opening lined up and slip it back up there.
Doesn't explain the hitting inside the case.
Didn't those have a shouldered brass upper bushing that the shaft sat on?
The reman did not have a shoulder. That would have made sense. Regarding rotating the plastic collar... the collar is ok where it is if the upper bushing had 86 thou more material on it. Maybe that was a shoulder that disintegrated due to no oil up there for 75,000 miles??? BUT there was no sign of that much ground material in the cup to suggest that. Who knows!
PIA to put them in also, I usually just toss them unless it is a important number, after you take the two out from the top you seat the bottom, then the top at 1/32 and then burnish them out. Really hate doing them myself. I have a 1/2" washer I reamed out to the od of the bushing and it is right at 1/32 thick so that part is easy. Then just drill the oil hole on the early ones before burnishing them I should add.
Only weird thin to that is it definitely drove the rotor UP into the cap. My money is the bottom bushing was sloppy and then add the rest, lack of oil etc, actually kinda makes sense the upper bushing was not getting oil and the bottom was and kept the shaft from wobbling?
some good info here for me to think about glad I jumped in.
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