Evaporust by the barrel?

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dibbons

dibbons

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Anyone purchase a 55 gallon drum of Evaporust. I have three classic Mopars to restore and I am thinking about a "wholesale" purchase of the stuff. The reason being the local Autozone has been the only outlet in this town to sell it and today they started offering the quart size in place of the gallon. No way will that work!

My first contact with a Mexican distributor quoted me $950.00 plus tax which is costlier than offered in the U.S.A. but what is a guy to do?

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I wish vinegar was as effective for me. I have tried vinegar and the results with my heavily rusted parts have been a total failure. With Evaporust, the wasted parts come out looking like new parts.

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There is no substitute for Evaporust, however a molasses bath is very effective, just a tad stinky when the funk starts growing on the surface. It just won't protect the part
once You pull it out, scrub & rinse it, so be ready to prime, oil, or plate the part soon afterwards.
 
O'Reilly over the counter price is 899. If you know someone with a commercial account, you can get a discount off that. Or, if you find it cheaper, O'Reilly will match that price.
 
Dibbons, I dunked a patina'd turbine housing in my Evaporust overnight and it didnt do ****. What happened? How long did you soak yours? My Evaporust is a black color, like dark coffee..?
 
Get some phospuric acid or hydrochloric acid. Cheaper than evapo-rust.
 
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evaporust is great, i used it on my filler neck with mostly good results.

if i had the room/space I'd go with electrolysis. Way cheaper and just as effective if not better.
 
pishta said:
Dibbons, I dunked a patina'd turbine housing in my Evaporust overnight and it didnt do ****. What happened? How long did you soak yours? My Evaporust is a black color, like dark coffee..?
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As long as Evaporust is a golden color, it is still effective. However, once it turns all black, it is spent and does NOTHING. The claims/advertising made are way exaggerated in regards to how much rust removing power it contains. In my experience, it poops out (turns black) pretty quickly.

When Evaporust is good and fresh (new) usually overnight will do the trick for almost anything.
 
Evaporust is not meant as a cleaner. So, that means you need to thoroughly clean the parts, before you use Evaporust.

You CAN filter Evaporust and make it regain its effectiveness. I've done it. Several times now. I have a five gallon bucket I have had for about three years I have filtered it twice through an old sheet and that makes it as strong as new.

Try it. You'll be surprised.
 
you could buy a bunch of good Ole Coca-Cola for way less........ it will eat rust
 
I use it around patch panels,spray it on after the welding.or soak a few rags and lay them on the parts. Bought a gallon a couple months ago. A plasic barrel set up for electrolysis wouldnt take up any more space than a barrel of evapo rust.
 
Killer6 said:
There is no substitute for Evaporust, however a molasses bath is very effective, just a tad stinky when the funk starts growing on the surface. It just won't protect the part
once You pull it out, scrub & rinse it, so be ready to prime, oil, or plate the part soon afterwards.
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Use a spray bottle with trisodium phosphate TSP and water mix in solution. As soon as you pull the part out of the molasses or vinegar, give it a healthy rinse with the water/TSP mixture and let drip dry inside your shop. Once its dry you can primer it within a few days. It wont flash rust quickly if you spray it down this way. I left parts i had dunked and rinsed with the water/TSP mix on my workbench for almost a year, and very little rust started in that time.

I mix a 1 gallon plastic bucket filled full with water, and 4 serving spoons of TSP mixed in. You can buy TSP in powder form at lowes or home depot for about $5
 
kiss said:
Since when?
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Since forever. Bluing is rust based. I don't use pb blaster on guns either.
Wd will kill the primers in ammo.

U don't want WD on your wood finish.
And u don't want PB on your plastic.
 
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