Thermoquad rebuild.

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dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I am about to try my first attempt and rebuilding a thermoquad I have been researching and found this book. Does anyone have it? Is it a good buy? What one would you rather recommend?
Also are all kits created equal? I have found some on Ebay that seem to be a pretty good deal. What kit do you recommend? Thanks

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I've heard that is a good book. Kits, make sure you get the one for the year/number of your tq...
 
The only trouble I've ever had rebuilding a TQ is matching up the correct gaskets, be sure to try and keep the one's that come off to match them up, the kit's come with several different gaskets. And never run a cheesy air cleaner like I did back in the 80's, I sucked this one down the intake! :lol:

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Go to the “How To Articles” page. The button is at the top of the webpage just below the FABO logo. Scroll down and you will find an article created by RustRatRod on how to tear down and reassemble ThermoQuads. Excellent instructions.
 
The only trouble I've ever had rebuilding a TQ is matching up the correct gaskets, be sure to try and keep the one's that come off to match them up, the kit's come with several different gaskets. And never run a cheesy air cleaner like I did back in the 80's, I sucked this one down the intake! :lol:

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Lol I remember those things in the early 2000s when I first started driving edlebrock made them and they had a bad reputation for catching on fire and getting sucked in the carb and ruining your engine. Guess they gave been around a long while lol
 
I plan on giving it a go and rebuilding one myself. I have to learn eventually!

It's stupid simple. The most difficult part of the Thermoquad is the learning curve involved with tuning. Everybody thinks you can have one built and just slap her on and go. That's just not true with the Thermoquad. Sometimes you get lucky. But be prepared to do sime tuning and adjusting up to and including taking the top back off and making float adjustments. That's mainly why I stopped building them. That and I was having trouble finding a way to clean them as good as I wanted. I'm actually still struggling with that last one. I have a few to build now, but they are all for people who understand what's involved and what they "might" have to do. The simple fact is, unless you know "some" about carburetors, it's probably best to either choose a different type, OR learn all you can about the TQ.
 
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The only trouble I've ever had rebuilding a TQ is matching up the correct gaskets, be sure to try and keep the one's that come off to match them up, the kit's come with several different gaskets. And never run a cheesy air cleaner like I did back in the 80's, I sucked this one down the intake! :lol:

View attachment 1715350644
I think we all used that Edelbrock fire hazard back in late 70's , it was something new at the time and looked cool. lol
 
I am about to try my first attempt and rebuilding a thermoquad I have been researching and found this book. Does anyone have it? Is it a good buy? What one would you rather recommend?
Also are all kits created equal? I have found some on Ebay that seem to be a pretty good deal. What kit do you recommend? Thanks

View attachment 1715350623
That’s the book to have. Step by step instructions.
Kits, make sure you get the one for the year/number of your tq...
VERY IMPORTANT!
It's stupid simple. THe most difficult part of the Thermoquad is the learning curve involved with tuning. Everybody thinks you can have one built and just slap her on and go. That's just not true with the Thermoquad. Sometimes you get lucky. But be prepared to do sime tuning and adjusting up to and including taking the top back off and making float adjustments. That's mainly why I stopped building them. That and I was having trouble finding a way to clean them as good as I wanted. I'm actually still struggling with that last one. I have a few to build now, but they are all for people who understand what's involved and what they "might" have to do. The simple fact is, unless you know "some" about carburetors, it's probably best to either choose a different type, OR learn all you can about the TQ.
IMO, to many variables on the external linkages to build on perfect OOTB & on to your car and run perfect TQ. There is a need for final adjustments once on the engine.
 
It's stupid simple. The most difficult part of the Thermoquad is the learning curve involved with tuning. Everybody thinks you can have one built and just slap her on and go. That's just not true with the Thermoquad. Sometimes you get lucky. But be prepared to do sime tuning and adjusting up to and including taking the top back off and making float adjustments. That's mainly why I stopped building them. That and I was having trouble finding a way to clean them as good as I wanted. I'm actually still struggling with that last one. I have a few to build now, but they are all for people who understand what's involved and what they "might" have to do. The simple fact is, unless you know "some" about carburetors, it's probably best to either choose a different type, OR learn all you can about the TQ.
I am a little nervous about it because I hear all the horror stories about how impossible hard they are to get right and how frustrating they can be. But I really want to use one for the simple reason of it being period correct. My goal for the car is for it to be as close to "day one" as possible. I'm building my car as it would have been if you could have ordered a performance dart swinger 360 in 1975. Granted there are a few things that are not gonna be "as original" like the 8.8 rear end but noone will ever see that Haha.
I have a Holley that I'm gonna rebuild also just in case as a backup plan.
 
I am a little nervous about it because I hear all the horror stories about how impossible hard they are to get right and how frustrating they can be. But I really want to use one for the simple reason of it being period correct. My goal for the car is for it to be as close to "day one" as possible. I'm building my car as it would have been if you could have ordered a performance dart swinger 360 in 1975. Granted there are a few things that are not gonna be "as original" like the 8.8 rear end but noone will ever see that Haha.
I have a Holley that I'm gonna rebuild also just in case as a backup plan.

"What I would do" would be to break the new build in on a known good carburetor and then switch to the Thermoquad. That way, you get the engine all broken in good without the risk of wiping cam lobes or other nasty stuff.
 
Have no fear. Jump in with two feet. The water is fine.
Geeeeezzzzzz
 
"What I would do" would be to break the new build in on a known good carburetor and then switch to the Thermoquad. That way, you get the engine all broken in good without the risk of wiping cam lobes or other nasty stuff.
That is the plan. I absolutely agree. I had planned on having Dana rebuild one for me he tests them on his test engine before he mails it back. But idk now. I may just rebuild the Holley and have someone run it in their engine idk yet. It has also crossed my mind to just buy a new carb and use it for break in and tuning then when get the TQ on put it away for my next engine.
 
"What I would do" would be to break the new build in on a known good carburetor and then switch to the Thermoquad. That way, you get the engine all broken in good without the risk of wiping cam lobes or other nasty stuff.
So you're say'n, you never just through an old carb on and got a fresh engine running.
How does one learn, if he doesn't jump in and work with what he has or wants to use.
Hell, I filed old points to get a motor running for cam break in. cheap ones at that.
 
So you're say'n, you never just through an old carb on and got a fresh engine running.
How does one learn, if he doesn't jump in and work with what he has or wants to use.
Hell, I filed old points to get a motor running for cam break in. cheap ones at that.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm saying. I always use a known good carburetor for engine break in, even if I have to pull it off of something running. It's just that important "to me", because it's expensive to make mistakes. I caint afford "all that".
 
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So you're say'n, you never just through an old carb on and got a fresh engine running.
How does one learn, if he doesn't jump in and work with what he has or wants to use.
Hell, I filed old points to get a motor running for cam break in. cheap ones at that.
I see your point but for me imo its risky to wipe a 2k engine because of a poorly tuned carb. And I have no tuning skills to begin with. If it was already a broke in engine it wouldn't be a big deal but trying to break it in with a unknown carb with zero experience is just to risky imo.
 
The truth is, a monkey could rebuild a carb, if he can read and can use a screw driver.
Too much is made of break in failure, most of the guys with failure are building chit already.
 
I see your point but for me imo its risky to wipe a 2k engine because of a poorly tuned carb. And I have no tuning skills to begin with. If it was already a broke in engine it wouldn't be a big deal but trying to break it in with a unknown carb with zero experience is just to risky imo.
A poorly tuned carb doesn’t destroy an engine or cam.
An engine NOT starting and trying to start it over and over destroys a cam. A lack of oil, non spinning lifters destroy a cam.
A destroyed cam will ruin an engine if you continue to run it.

IF your engine doesn’t start quickly, your carb may not be rebuilt correctly and it is getting no fuel, also, you maybe 180*’s out of timing. Lift the distributor up and out and move the rotor 180*’s, then reinstall. Start engine up.

And use of a known good carb for initial start up and cam break in.
 
A poorly tuned carb doesn’t destroy an engine or cam.
An engine NOT starting and trying to start it over and over destroys a cam. A lack of oil, non spinning lifters destroy a cam.
A destroyed cam will ruin an engine if you continue to run it.

IF your engine doesn’t start quickly, your carb may not be rebuilt correctly and it is getting no fuel, also, you maybe 180*’s out of timing. Lift the distributor up and out and move the rotor 180*’s, then reinstall. Start engine up.

And use of a known good carb for initial start up and cam break in.
Yea I know but chances are a poorly tuned and or rebuilt carb isnt gonna fire up and run. Thats what I was getting at. Setting there cranking blindly trying to get it to start not knowing whether it's the carb timing electrical etc. I'd rather eliminate as much of that as possible by starting with a well known carb.
 
I don't understand why this is even a frikkin point to argue. It's my personal preference. Don't like it? Start your new engines your way. Lots of times, chimps stick food up their *** before they eat it, too.
 
I don't understand why this is even a frikkin point to argue. It's my personal preference. Don't like it? Start your new engines your way. Lots of times, chimps stick food up their *** before they eat it, too.
:rofl::rofl::lol:
You always make me lol no matter what the topic is! Haha. Just for the record I agree with you!:)
 
:rofl::rofl::lol:
You always make me lol no matter what the topic is! Haha. Just for the record I agree with you!:)

It just always grinds my nuts together when people come from nowhere and throw up an argument. It's a good idea. It's been posted and suggested many times before. Everybody knows it's a good idea. It make perfect sense to bust a new engine off with a carburetor you already know is good. It's a no brainer, yet some folks gotta throw water on everything.
 
a known working carb is needed for initial fire up, but rest assure there have been many engines shut down after initial fire from other unforeseen problems. It happens, like I said, too much made of cam break in.
 
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