Fast rebuild?

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Machmeter1 said:
Get in touch with @Jim Kueneman, his slant 6 rebuild is top notch and well documented.
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May I ask what was he building for, as in the usage? Stock ? Upgraded for something other than bone stock? H0pped up?

Sounds like this guy needs a stock slant 6, even if he rv cam'd it or bought a higher lift version of a stock perf type cam.. that's a set of valve springs. Really with slant 6's the main problems or maintenance will be the crap nylon distributor gear and making sure to locate a good hardened drive oil pump..or rebuild his old with a milled plate and spring/adjust the pressure a hair higher.

Those slants don't last darn near forever because they a ton of upgrades now.. kiss method is the approach to be taken.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
It's a slant 6, they nothing but cheap till ya go aftermarket bolt ons etc.
In an afternoon...once you pick it all up from ththe machine shop. Crank grind,rods n pistons resized n pressed on, bored n honed, recon the head. Usually takes 3-5 days for the shop.
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around my area, machine shops (the few that are left) are so backed up, it took me a week just to get a set of rods reconditioned. One shop said they weren"t even taking any more work in for a month.
 
Charrlie_S said:
around my area, machine shops (the few that are left) are so backed up, it took me a week just to get a set of rods reconditioned. One shop said they weren"t even taking any more work in for a month.
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A week!!! A week!!! Thats fast!!! I wish my machinest could hop on my stuff that quick.
 
Charrlie_S said:
around my area, machine shops (the few that are left) are so backed up, it took me a week just to get a set of rods reconditioned. One shop said they weren"t even taking any more work in for a month.
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I've had it take weeks before, but on average its 3-5 days for the bottom end machining and another week for the heads.
I have a few motors and many sets and singles of heads in the machine shop at any given time.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I've had it take weeks before, but on average its 3-5 days for the bottom end machining and another week for the heads.
I have a few motors and many sets and singles of heads in the machine shop at any given time.
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"but on average its 3-5 days for the bottom end machining and another week for the heads."
so MOPAROFFICIAL go ahead and post the names and phone numbers of these shops that have a 3-5 day turn around for ' bottom end machining ' Is that a line-bore?
I don't think the OP was even asking about that. I will certainly call them and check their lead time. Espically if they can get a slant head turned around in a week. Again, post the shops name.
 
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bought my d150 with 2 rods knocking and one bout to pull the bottom outta its piston, new jasper crate with low miles, killed by a teenager, for 700 bucks! bought a used running /6 off craigslist for 300 buck with unknown milage, said to run good and no oil consumption, 4 years ive been putting around this truck, coulda done built a bunch of motors since then or went v8! ill keep on putting around,..gotta grand to much in it to do anything else lololol
 
Where located? I have a running driving /6 I'd consider selling, still in a truck (I have a car pan/pickup) as I have a fresh one almost ready to swap in. You'd need your pulleys, carb, distributor, alternator and starter cuz I'm gonna need those for my other engine. I'd let you hear it while it's all still in place. Just under 100k miles the 1st time around the Odo. It's the original one in my 85 D150. Drop it in and drive, while you pull your original one out and go thru it the right way.
I have a thread in here,"my slant build" not far below this thread. Check it out it'll give you some of the details, thought process, and at one point a list of what I'm paying/ have paid for parts and some of where those prices are from (sources I used) within about the last 8-9 months.
I took my time and bought as parts came along, for a decent price I also bought alot of "old stock" parts made before Chineseium became the problem that it currently is.
There are alot of such threads if you look back in this /6 section of the site.
Only about 240-ish pages of posts you can wade thru to get an idea of what it really takes to go thru a motor and to do it right.
 
volaredon said:
Mine was 9 months on the block and then another 3 months on the head. Whatever you do DON'T make the mistake I did and tell the machine shop that you're not in a hurry.
On the V8 swap idea/ do you have any ideas as to what is involved in that? What other parts are needed that won't interchange with your current /6 parts? I'm wondering since you say this is your 1st rebuild that you're considering. For a street cruiser/daily driver, you might be better staying with the 6. They can be built up enough to surprise many. And you wouldn't need a different trans, exhaust, radiator, motor mounts, oil pan, and such, which also all costs money. Depends on how well you like that car. And getting it all apart then not having the money turns lots of cool cars into garage ornaments.
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I know I need a lot of parts and a lot of money to do a V8 swap. I've got a 727 but it probably should probably be gone through, but I'll need an engine, rear axle, driveshaft, and every little thing in between. And each of those parts is probably going to get rebuilt, so thats even more time, money, effort.
 
volaredon said:
Where located? I have a running driving /6 I'd consider selling, still in a truck (I have a car pan/pickup) as I have a fresh one almost ready to swap in. You'd need your pulleys, carb, distributor, alternator and starter cuz I'm gonna need those for my other engine. I'd let you hear it while it's all still in place. Just under 100k miles the 1st time around the Odo. It's the original one in my 85 D150. Drop it in and drive, while you pull your original one out and go thru it the right way.
I have a thread in here, "my slant build" not far below this thread. Check it out it'll give you some of the details, thought process, and at one point a list of what I'm paying/ have paid for parts and some of where those prices are from (sources I used) within about the last 8-9 months.
I took my time and bought as parts came along, for a decent price I also bought alot of "old stock" parts made before Chineseium became the problem that it currently is.
There are alot of such threads if you look back in this /6 section of the site.
Only about 240-ish pages of posts you can wade thru to get an idea of what it really takes to go thru a motor and to do it right.
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I live in Sacramento CA. If you're not too far from here I might take you up on that engine. As a full-time worker in the medical field, a rebuild might take longer than I had hoped.
 
Murray said:
There is no way an inexperienced person can rebuild an engine. It is not easy even for an experienced mechanic. There is no 'kit'. Each motor is different, there being many variables. You need to find an experienced person nearby willing to help or turn in over to a shop.
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Sorry I have to disagree. Everyone has to start somewhere. We have a wealth of knowledge here on this site and we can walk him thru it. Granted there are gonna be alot of tools, knowledge, other stuff he is gonna have to pick up along the way. But Everyone here built their first one at some point. And Everyone here didn't know what they know now at some point. I thought I knew alot until I started building my engine then I found out I didn't know jack! I still don't know it all and have alot to learn but came along way since I started that first engine build. Anyone can learn.
 
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I would check the local trading papers and fb marketplace, craigs list etc, and find a running slant six and swap em out! Then you can take your worn slant six and learn how to work on it while your driving your duster back and forth to work!
 
dartfreak75 said:
I would check the local trading papers and fb marketplace, craigs list etc, and find a running slant six and swap em out! Then you can take your worn slant six and learn how to work on it while your driving your duster back and forth to work!
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Alecb said:
I live in Sacramento CA. If you're not too far from here I might take you up on that engine. As a full-time worker in the medical field, a rebuild might take longer than I had hoped.
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I'm right by Chicago.
And yeah, dart freak,the thing about we've all having been there, has been said above.
OP/ you wouldn't have to have a 727 necessarily to swap to a v8. they made 904s to go behind V8s too. Then you wouldn't need a driveshaft and why would you necessarily have to change the rear end? You wouldn't. What are you looking at getting out of this car? Daily driver/work car, or strip terror, what exactly? That will help determine needs gas is going the wrong way price wise since we swapped president's, you certainly wouldn't want anything too wild. Is this your only vehicle? Need up n running over a weekend? Find another slant 6 to drop in and then worry about whether to rebuild yours or swap a V8.
 
volaredon said:
I'm right by Chicago.
And yeah, dart freak,the thing about we've all having been there, has been said above.
OP/ you wouldn't have to have a 727 necessarily to swap to a v8. they made 904s to go behind V8s too. Then you wouldn't need a driveshaft and why would you necessarily have to change the rear end? You wouldn't. What are you looking at getting out of this car? Daily driver/work car, or strip terror, what exactly? That will help determine needs gas is going the wrong way price wise since we swapped president's, you certainly wouldn't want anything too wild. Is this your only vehicle? Need up n running over a weekend? Find another slant 6 to drop in and then worry about whether to rebuild yours or swap a V8.
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I have the 727 because I couldn't get my hands on a small block 904 and the 727 was a good price. The rear axle in my car is a 7 1/4, which wouldn't last long behind a v8. This car is just my fun project/hot rod, I've felt the awesome power of other V8 cars and I want my own now. I have a normal daily driver car so that's not an issue. The V8 swap probably won't happen for a while, so I'm content with cruising the slant six around until I'm ready.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I would check the local trading papers and fb marketplace, craigs list etc, and find a running slant six and swap em out! Then you can take your worn slant six and learn how to work on it while your driving your duster back and forth to work!
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That's what I'm thinking, I just need a runner to keep my car on the road. It really bums me out when my car is stuck.
 
A cheap v8 and a cheap driveshaft would be money better spent if you plan to go v8 in the future anyway.

Jmho, but the cost of a "runner" slant is going to be what your v8 driveshaft would cost. Find a cheap 318 and toss it in. The 7.25 will be fine for a while behind a stock "runner" 318 or 360 - just don't ask more from the engine than you get from the slant right now.
 
Phreakish said:
A cheap v8 and a cheap driveshaft would be money better spent if you plan to go v8 in the future anyway.

Jmho, but the cost of a "runner" slant is going to be what your v8 driveshaft would cost. Find a cheap 318 and toss it in. The 7.25 will be fine for a while behind a stock "runner" 318 or 360 - just don't ask more from the engine than you get from the slant right now.
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His car appears to be a 73+ which means spool mounts. Not as simple as a swap now that shumaker mounts aren't available. He would have to make his own or swap out the whole k frame not an easy job either!
 
dartfreak75 said:
His car appears to be a 73+ which means spool mounts. Not as simple as a swap now that shumaker mounts aren't available. He would have to make his own or swap out the whole k frame not an easy job either!
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You are correct. That is a part of the whole equation that I haven't gotten to yet. I'm thinking of buying some standard V8 spool engine mounts and modifying them to work with my Slant six K frame. But I can't do the mental gymnastics until I have an engine that I can use to mock up and fabricate with.
 
No sense half azzin a rebuild especially with the admission that it's been overheated a couple times bwhich what was why led up to it running how it now does.a basic rebuild won't last very many miles in that case.
fishmens67 said:
I wouldn't use the rebuild pellets, but I would do a basic rebuild on it, rings, valve lap ,seals, bearings, timing chain and gaskets.
and drive it for many more miles.
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Alecb said:
You are correct. That is a part of the whole equation that I haven't gotten to yet. I'm thinking of buying some standard V8 spool engine mounts and modifying them to work with my Slant six K frame. But I can't do the mental gymnastics until I have an engine that I can use to mock up and fabricate with.
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I had planned on taking measurements and replicating my shumakers before installing them and completely forgot to! I have a set of standard set of v8 spool mounts somewhere i wish I would have compared them before installing my engine. I did a 360 swap in a 75 dart using the shumaker conversion spool mounts it works perfectly. Just have to shorten the drivers side mount on the k frame and drill a new hole and your set. Look on ebay you may get lucky and find a set. I sure hope someone will start making them again.
 
volaredon said:
No sense half azzin a rebuild especially with the admission that it's been overheated a couple times bwhich what was why led up to it running how it now does.a basic rebuild won't last very many miles in that case.
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you don't know that. That will be determined when the engine is pulled apart.
 
fishmens67 said:
you don't know that. That will be determined when the engine is pulled apart.
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I've only ever had the head off of my engine. I know piston #2 is pitted pretty bad, the others are ok. I didn't feel any ring ridge in the cylinders.
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