340 retrofit hydraulic roller lifters

[Junkdodge75]

I’m installing Lunati retrofit hydraulic roller lifters in a 70 340 block. The block has had an oil system mod. Copper tubes in passenger side oil galley. Drivers side is still open, assuming it’s plugged at a different location. My question is do I need to unmod this to run hydraulic roller lifters?

 

[Professor Fate]

That mod is for solid lifters, it blocks off the oil feed to the lifter bores. You need oil for hydraulics (roller or flat tappet) to work.

 

[Junkdodge75]

That mod is for solid lifters, it blocks off the oil feed to the lifter bores. You need oil for hydraulics (roller or flat tappet) to work.

Thanks.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Good luck getting that tube out if it is peaned at every lifter bore. Better off installing the other side and running a solid roller.

 

[mbaird]

Just make some oil feed holes in the tubes . Assuming you have the engine apart ... it will need a good cleaning afterward.

 

[mbaird]

Or do what oldmanmopar suggested

 

[Professor Fate]

Good luck getting that tube out if it is peaned at every lifter bore. Better off installing the other side and running a solid roller.

Maybe an ignorant question, but don't solid rollers need an oil supply, too? I thought they still had an oil passage going to the roller itself... or maybe not. My experience is very limited in that regard. Either way, edjumicate me please!

 

[Rat Bastid]

Maybe an ignorant question, but don't solid rollers need an oil supply, too? I thought they still had an oil passage going to the roller itself... or maybe not. My experience is very limited in that regard. Either way, edjumicate me please!

Solids get oiled from oil throw off the rods and a little by drain back from the heads.

I wouldn’t use a hydraulic lifter today unless the guy using them wasn’t ever capable of learning how to correct lash solids.

If you are going to run hydraulics all you need is an .060 hole in each tube where it breaks through the lifter bore. And that’s plenty. The tube is a good thing because even with a hole in it, it reduces oil losses at the lifter by a bunch. That’s good.

For the drivers side they either put a set screw under the number 1 main bearing so you can just take it out. The other way is it is plugged is from the front under the cam retaining plate. You can take it out and send it.

I’ve been considering for a while tubing the drivers side. Just cleaner.

 

[mbaird]

Some solid rollers have oil hole .
HIPPO lifters oil the bearings .
But as Rat Bastid stated a small hole is all that is need . That could be done with a dremel .

 

[Junkdodge75]

Just make some oil feed holes in the tubes . Assuming you have the engine apart ... it will need a good cleaning afterward.

Was just thinking that. It’s a bare block.

 

[Junkdodge75]

Solids get oiled from oil throw off the rods and a little by drain back from the heads.

I wouldn’t use a hydraulic lifter today unless the guy using them wasn’t ever capable of learning how to correct lash solids.

If you are going to run hydraulics all you need is an .060 hole in each tube where it breaks through the lifter bore. And that’s plenty. The tube is a good thing because even with a hole in it, it reduces oil losses at the lifter by a bunch. That’s good.

For the drivers side they either put a set screw under the number 1 main bearing so you can just take it out. The other way is it is plugged is from the front under the cam retaining plate. You can take it out and send it.

I’ve been considering for a while tubing the drivers side. Just cleaner.

It is plugged from the front. I’ve already purchased the lifters, cam and valve springs. I’ll drill holes in the passenger side and remove the plug from the front. Thanks.

 

[512Stroker]

It is plugged from the front. I’ve already purchased the lifters, cam and valve springs. I’ll drill holes in the passenger side and remove the plug from the front. Thanks.

Before you install a set of retro hyd rollers do some research here on the forum regarding issues with retro rollers, there have been many reported problems with them. I myself just removed a set of junk Comp Cam retro rollers from my 340 and coverted it to solid rollers.
No more hydraulic lifters for this old Hill Billy.
To $ expensive and poor performance along with the noise.
Good luck

 

[Junkdodge75]

 

[Junkdodge75]

I’ve been ready on FABO about the problem some folks have with hydraulic rollers. I had to wait 4 months for these lifters. Im going to give it a try.

 

[512Stroker]

I’ve been ready on FABO about the problem some folks have with hydraulic rollers. I had to wait 4 months for these lifters. Im going to give it a try.

Just keep in mind that if you try them and they fail to perform you will need to remove the cylinder heads to replace them.
To me it would not be worth the gamble.

 

[Junkdodge75]

Just keep in mind that if you try them and they fail to perform you will need to remove the cylinder heads to replace them.
To me it would not be worth the gamble.

I’ve read about the lifter bore chamfer being erratic, the lifter waist protruding out of the lifter bore causing oil pressure problems, improperly clearances pushrods and lifters leaking down. I’m still going to try.

 

[PRH]

I’m with you.
When I have it in my head to try something...... I try it.

Either way it’s a learning experience.

 

[Junkdodge75]

Solids get oiled from oil throw off the rods and a little by drain back from the heads.

I wouldn’t use a hydraulic lifter today unless the guy using them wasn’t ever capable of learning how to correct lash solids.

If you are going to run hydraulics all you need is an .060 hole in each tube where it breaks through the lifter bore. And that’s plenty. The tube is a good thing because even with a hole in it, it reduces oil losses at the lifter by a bunch. That’s good.

For the drivers side they either put a set screw under the number 1 main bearing so you can just take it out. The other way is it is plugged is from the front under the cam retaining plate. You can take it out and send it.

I’ve been considering for a while tubing the drivers side. Just cleaner.

What would be involved in tubing the drivers side? Seems to Me if I drilled .060 holes in the passenger side tube, tubing the drivers side to match would help with oil control around the lifters.

 

[512Stroker]

I’ve read about the lifter bore chamfer being erratic, the lifter waist protruding out of the lifter bore causing oil pressure problems, improperly clearances pushrods and lifters leaking down. I’m still going to try.

Just wanted you to know the issues.
If you think you can make them work - go for it.
Keep us informed how it works out for ya.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

My son is using those lifters in my street motor. The trick is bush and tru the lifter bores That is why he bought the tooling.

I talked to him about your block . That was done to your block years back when they splash oiled the lifters. Not for street. He also said the other side would need to be done for splash oiling.

He said he would ream the tube out if it was here. Many people have problems with these lifter due to the bore being to big and having them bleed through. Use the lifters but prep the block properly.

 

[Bakerlite]

Use the lifters but prep the block properly.

Yep, that's the way.

 

[K.O. SWINGER]

Couldn't he just go to a solid flat tap setup? A good option for a high winding 340

 

[Junkdodge75]

My son is using those lifters in my street motor. The trick is bush and tru the lifter bores That is why he bought the tooling.

I talked to him about your block . That was done to your block years back when they splash oiled the lifters. Not for street. He also said the other side would need to be done for splash oiling.

He said he would ream the tube out if it was here. Many people have problems with these lifter due to the bore being to big and having them bleed through. Use the lifters but prep the block properly.

Guess I’ll be on the phone with Wydendorf machine in the morning. They sell a kit with piloted reamers and oilight bushings.

 

[Rat Bastid]

Guess I’ll be on the phone with Wydendorf machine in the morning. They sell a kit with piloted reamers and oilight bushings.

You don’t need all that crap. Drill some holes, take out the restriction to the drivers side and send it.

Correcting the lifter bores won’t make the lifters not tick. And the kit you are looking at won’t correct them either.

Don’t make it harder than it is.

 

[Junkdodge75]

You don’t need all that crap. Drill some holes, take out the restriction to the drivers side and send it.

Correcting the lifter bores won’t make the lifters not tick. And the kit you are looking at won’t correct them either.

Don’t make it harder than it is.

Ok. I’ll try that first. Thanks.