That's the same type I have. First thing I did was replace the bolts with aircraft grade 10 and it's never failed me.
Mine actually came with grade 5. Crazy.That's where I should have gone Rob because grade 8 was insufficient
...and the punch goes where?Take the clip out.
Unscrew the torsion bar adjusting bolts 20 turns.
Remove the shock lower bolts.
Now everything is loose.
You shouldn't need a tool outside of a punch and hammer.
Many years ago I happened on a 340 Duster in a junkyard. I wanted the t-bars for my 340 Duster that had come to me with slant 6 bars. Making do with what was available I hung an 18" pipe wrench off the bar and used a bumper jack wedged against the pipe wrench and rather easily ratcheted the bars out. Please, don't waste your time with alarmist comments about gouging the bars with a pipe wrench - nothing bad happened and I would do it again in a similar situation.
Just like the one I made it worked good until I realized that prying the control arm back was easier when rebuilding the front end.I don’t expect to need this again. PM me if interested. If I need it again, I’ll make another one.
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That's the way I've always done it. I wrapped the ubolts with some electrical tape too, for a little more grip. With how big my headers are, I don't think the actual tool would fit.Easy enough to make.-A short piece of angle iron and a couple of u bolts. Drill through one flat for the u-bolts. Attach so the 90 degree is hanging down. Whack it with a hammer. I recommend wrapping the bar with tape first.
That's the way I've always done it. I wrapped the ubolts with some electrical tape too, for a little more grip. With how big my headers are, I don't think the actual tool would fit.
I don’t expect to need this again. PM me if interested. If I need it again, I’ll make another one.
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Mine worked great on my B bodies, but as you say on an A body with headers it's a tight fit.That's the way I've always done it. I wrapped the ubolts with some electrical tape too, for a little more grip. With how big my headers are, I don't think the actual tool would fit.
Easy to say until you've had a frozen one.Take the clip out.
Unscrew the torsion bar adjusting bolts 20 turns.
Remove the shock lower bolts.
Now everything is loose.
You shouldn't need a tool outside of a punch and hammer.
Mine worked great on my B bodies, but as you say on an A body with headers it's a tight fit.
Just my evaluation of what I see is #1, no grease on the bar or socket. Someone installed the bar dry: #2, heat was applied to the bar and not the socket only. You want to expand the socket, not the bar. Note: before installing a new bar. clean out the socket well before adding the grease and bar.I had a really crazy time removing one recently..
Cut it out, cut a slot for the air chisel, and then Some heatin' & beatin'
It took about a 1/2 Hour with the air hammer. - There was no way that ws coming out with any method or tool described in the FSM.
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