Amd Primer
- Thread starter Big.J.007
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
It will peel. I like to sand it with 180 grit and prime. That primer is thin and only used to protect the metal before selling.
j par
Well-Known Member
The D.A.R.E. car was in the left lane... it was a black 80s, Camaro, all set up for drag. Racing, let a couple officers had out there....
light goes green... I look over that camaros, front tires gotta be clearing at least three feet from the ground, and as I glance over to the left and think to myself COOOOL....
I GRABBED SECOND AND NEVER SEE HIM AGAIN!!...
While he was putting on a show pulling wheelie's.I was grabbing second and leaving him in the dust... another camaro dusted by the duster.....
light goes green... I look over that camaros, front tires gotta be clearing at least three feet from the ground, and as I glance over to the left and think to myself COOOOL....
I GRABBED SECOND AND NEVER SEE HIM AGAIN!!...
While he was putting on a show pulling wheelie's.I was grabbing second and leaving him in the dust... another camaro dusted by the duster.....
j par
Well-Known Member
Or there was that time that I made the semifinals for the stick shift class at the mopar nationals, while yellow rose was selling parts at the swap meet...
some people walk the walk, some people talk the talk...
some people walk the walk, some people talk the talk...
ESP47
Well-Known Member
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I, too, have had beer before noon.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Sniffing too many paint fumes!
I drank too much yesterday too but guessing I didn't drink as much
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I roughed up my AMD full floor with 180 grit then Epoxy primed. I didn't completely strip it but not much of the AMD primer was left on there.
Ugh! That looks very tired some.
It doesn’t seem to stick very well. My guess is they don’t clean the metal very well and the primer is there to prevent rust from forming on the metal before they can sell it.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Perfect. Nice job.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
ALL bodywork is tiresome.
I will guess it will stick well if the metal was cleaned prior.
I like the idea and running 180 grit over it all, to be sure. I have done it with the e coat still there but scuffed. But that was years ago, I have fabbed everythjng since.
I like the idea and running 180 grit over it all, to be sure. I have done it with the e coat still there but scuffed. But that was years ago, I have fabbed everythjng since.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Needed to get floor replaced and gotta do what gotta do. Tiresome don't think about that chop chop get it done and do a good job. Breaks rest as one goes along ect ect ect
Cuda416
Well-Known Member
Think of it this way. If someone brought you a car to paint, would you strip it to metal or scuff and paint over what they brought you knowing you'd be on the hook for the whole job? Treat it like that. You don't know the conditions under which the edp was applied any more than you would know what was under someone else's paint, or epoxy job or even filler. it's not worth the risk in my opinion to leave it on. Just strip it and git-r-done.
Bought a new fender for my daughter's Pitiful Thing (PT Cruiser) and only scuffed the E coat. It wasn't from AMD but can't remember who it was from. Painted it the factory white BC/CC and it stayed on until she decided to get rid of that POS which was many years later.
All work is tiresome to the 'old'! lol
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Are E coat are not created equal. Some may hold paint for a while but some wont. The body shop I worked at 1980 - 2000, used stock and havetohackit parts and we sanded all exterior parts down to metal. Jambs of fenders and such got a good scuff. We still used DP 40 Etching primer after.
Pretty sure I put primer on the E coat.....been lots of years now but the last time I saw the car, the fender was still covered with good looking paint. Just glad she finally got rid of it. Hated working on that pos. It did run pretty strong for a turbo 4 banger though...
I have done it both ways , but I have never had any issue putting a DTM Epoxy primer over the E Coat. But , if metal was not clean, nothing will stick to oily metal or anything with any silicone on it.
Body guys hate ArmorAll!!
Body guys hate ArmorAll!!
IMHO, after years of body work and working in a body shop as a teenager (80’s) and I know ALOT has changed but the black coating on parts is again a coating to keep parts from rusting while sitting. I always ended up sanding every part even to this day. New panels even AMD require a bit of minor work some tweaking and some major refit and you end up sanding every part even- everywhere anyhow. Quarter panels in the trunk area for example never see the love given to the outside of the panel. I’ve seen at shows inside trunk area peeling above the wheel wells due to lack of scuffing. $10k paint job and the body shop just “dusted” the paint and never even skuffed it. Painting a car is 90% prep and 10% shine.
Trust me- your not saving any time not breaking that surface.
Trust me- your not saving any time not breaking that surface.
The "right" way is to always take everything down to bare metal!!!!
You can buy a car that a guy just spent $6-8-10,000 on the body/paint... then next day take it to another "shop" for the same body/paint work, and they will every time want to take it bare metal otherwise they will not guarantee the work! Yea I get it.
Makes a difference if I do my worlk for me OR if you are a pro shop workinmg for the public.
You can buy a car that a guy just spent $6-8-10,000 on the body/paint... then next day take it to another "shop" for the same body/paint work, and they will every time want to take it bare metal otherwise they will not guarantee the work! Yea I get it.
Makes a difference if I do my worlk for me OR if you are a pro shop workinmg for the public.
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