Wilwood kit vs Dr Diff Wilwood kit, help??

[Ozyduster]

I am going to run Wilwood front brakes on the duster who has run the Wilwood kit and who ran the Dr diff kit as the Dr Diff kit uses a standard mopar rotor from a later 78 model car and uses custom steering knuckle as opposed to the Wilwood kit where it uses hubs etc to adapt the kit to standard steering knuckle

Any pros and cons between the two as similar price points

 

[66Valiant528]

Is this a drag only car?

 

[Ozyduster]

Is this a drag only car?

Depends who sitting next to me at the lights...... it will do some passes but will only be a mid ten to low ten at best so no drag car by any means. Mainly a tough streeter, let it rip on weekends etc. Calvert monoleafs, kaltracks, calvert 9 way adjustable rears and qua1 twin adjustable fronts, 8,3/4 trutrac with disk brakes. So has a half decent set up if going to drag

 

[66Valiant528]

The only reason I asked is because it looks like the wilwood are a solid rotor. I can't tell on the Dr Diff but I would assume it's a much heavier vented rotor assembly. For a streeter I'd avoid a solid front rotor set up. But I have no personal experience with that Wilwood set up.

 

[Super-Cuda]

The only reason I asked is because it looks like the wilwood are a solid rotor. I can't tell on the Dr Diff but I would assume it's a much heavier vented rotor assembly. For a streeter I'd avoid a solid front rotor set up. But I have no personal experience with that Wilwood set up.

Here's my 11" Wilwood front disc brake setup, cross drilled and vented rotors.

10,000 miles on the street and no issues whatsoever.

Everything was included as well as great installation instructions.

Plus, their phone support is awesome!

Dr. Diff is also excellent to deal with and also great phone support.

I wouldn't hesitate to use either.

 

[Ozyduster]

Good

The only reason I asked is because it looks like the wilwood are a solid rotor. I can't tell on the Dr Diff but I would assume it's a much heavier vented rotor assembly. For a streeter I'd avoid a solid front rotor set up. But I have no personal experience with that Wilwood set up.

pick up, you look to be correct the base model wilwood kit looks to be solid however you can get vented kits as well.

 

[ec_co]

"mid to low 10s at best, not a drag car" is so funny to hear these days. 30 years ago that was 100% a drag car. my buddies' 69 Super Bee with a dual tunnel ram 383 and plumbed nitrous was getting 11s back then as a full 1/4 mile car. Now it's 'meh' compared to modern output

 

[Just Send It]

Both kits are fine.

However, OP needs to measure the piston diameters for both Front & Rear calipers and calculate the Pedal Ratio. From there, call Wilwood and buy a Master Cylinder that has the correct Bore and Stroke length for the entire setup.

No sense in dropping a bunch of money on new brakes if the MC doesn't provide the volume and/or pressure you need to squeeze them correctly.

None of this "15/16ths" or "7/8ths" guesswork BS. Do the math. Call Wilwood. Be happy.

 

[Inertia]

Both kits are fine.

However, OP needs to measure the piston diameters for both Front & Rear calipers and calculate the Pedal Ratio. From there, call Wilwood and buy a Master Cylinder that has the correct Bore and Stroke length for the entire setup.

No sense in dropping a bunch of money on new brakes if the MC doesn't provide the volume and/or pressure you need to squeeze them correctly.

None of this "15/16ths" or "7/8ths" guesswork BS. Do the math. Call Wilwood. Be happy.

Some folks actually go out and test, swap out different size m/cs and measure pedal movement, line pressure and actual stopping distances.

They also test brake pad brands, pad compounds.

Not guesswork, actual tests, experience under different driving conditions and road surfaces .

You guess, - some actually test .

Good luck

PS. Wilwood highly over-rated, over priced .

JMExperience.

 

[TT5.9mag]

The weight difference will be the biggest factor between the two. The aluminum hub vs the stock iron hub.

 

[Icetech]

The weight difference will be the biggest factor between the two. The aluminum hub vs the stock iron hub.

for a street/strip car though is that 30# going to matter?

 

[TT5.9mag]

for a street/strip car though is that 30# going to matter?

To me? Always. Weight is free horsepower.

 

[Icetech]

To me? Always. Weight is free horsepower.

Fair enough... My car is just street and will never be "Fast" so not too worried bout it One thing i find funny is when guys (not you, i have no idea how big you are) that are well over 220# will talk about how they are making their car lighter... and it's like... you could drop 50# and leave the car alone also

 

[TT5.9mag]

Fair enough... My car is just street and will never be "Fast" so not too worried bout it One thing i find funny is when guys (not you, i have no idea how big you are) that are well over 220# will talk about how they are making their car lighter... and it's like... you could drop 50# and leave the car alone also

Gotta trim the fat somewhere and if you ain’t gonna stop eating cheeseburgers you may as well buy the lightweight brakes.

I’m 190lbs and I love bacon.

 

[Icetech]

Gotta trim the fat somewhere and if you ain’t gonna stop eating cheeseburgers you may as well buy the lightweight brakes.

I’m 190lbs and I love bacon.

I went 250>178, right now... 250 was bad.. under 200 is a massive difference I am staying on IF or my eating gets out of control.. sugar is worse than any drug

 

[TT5.9mag]

I gave up sugar (and most processed carbohydrates) 4 years ago after a pretty serious motorcycle racing accident. One of the biggest factors in getting healthy in my opinion.

 

[Icetech]

I gave up sugar (and most processed carbohydrates) 4 years ago after a pretty serious motorcycle racing accident. One of the biggest factors in getting healthy in my opinion.

Yeah. at 250 i woke up one day and couldn't see more than 5ft.. i found out i was diabetic.. went pure keto and worked out, no more diabetes and felt the best i ever have. I ended up at 165 which is WAY too small for me.. i usually hang between 175-180. I had to quit keto and man sugar/carbs are insane.. the cravings came back hard as soon as i got back on them.

 

[Icetech]

ok.. sorry bout hijacking the thread

 

[Inertia]

Losing 1 pounds of un-sprung weight is equal to losing more than 1 1/2 lbs of sprung weight.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Fair enough... My car is just street and will never be "Fast" so not too worried bout it One thing i find funny is when guys (not you, i have no idea how big you are) that are well over 220# will talk about how they are making their car lighter... and it's like... you could drop 50# and leave the car alone also

 

[Super-Cuda]

I spoke to Wilwood Technical.

I gave them the parameters and requirements I needed for the car I was installing the brake system on.

They provided me with their suggestions for a master Cylinder, Rotors and pads plus several rear options.

I went with their recommendations.

Fair price, outstanding brakes and stellar service.

I'm very happy with them.

 

[Ottmundr]

Call Cass at Quality Body Shop Drivetrain and SPEAK with him. He spent time with me getting my issues sorted. I couldn't be happier with my S-60 and disk brakes and proportioning block, et cetera. He won't sell you **** you don't need. The S-60 was about $300 more (cheap insurance) than an 8 3/4, and was available immediately, the 8 3/4 was on backorder, not a hard choice. The downside is I can't swap the pumpkin out in a couple hours.

 

[Ozyduster]

Both kits are fine.

However, OP needs to measure the piston diameters for both Front & Rear calipers and calculate the Pedal Ratio. From there, call Wilwood and buy a Master Cylinder that has the correct Bore and Stroke length for the entire setup.

No sense in dropping a bunch of money on new brakes if the MC doesn't provide the volume and/or pressure you need to squeeze them correctly.

None of this "15/16ths" or "7/8ths" guesswork BS. Do the math. Call Wilwood. Be happy.

Good point, think i am limited on master cylinder due to running the 6.4 as fills the bay up quite a bit

 

[Ozyduster]

"mid to low 10s at best, not a drag car" is so funny to hear these days. 30 years ago that was 100% a drag car. my buddies' 69 Super Bee with a dual tunnel ram 383 and plumbed nitrous was getting 11s back then as a full 1/4 mile car. Now it's 'meh' compared to modern output

Very true, i mean the first fast and furious in the early 2000s talked about ten second cars.......... now days so many cars getting around capable of 8s and 9s due to modern day turbos and v8s etc.

 

[BSB67]

I have the Wilwood fronts on my Charger. I love em. I’m running a 1972 A body MC with the 15/16” bore. No power. Brings my 4100# down from 122 mph nicely.

Never used the Dr. Diff. Stuff so I have no comparison.

I’m going to go right back to Wilwood for the same thing on the GTX.