welder recommendations

[barbee6043]

May I break in and ask a question. I have a 110 Hobart that is about 20-25 years old. I bought it about the time Hobart was bought out by Miller. It had the feed cable replaced maybe 10 years ago. It never feeds wire smoothly. Is this the wire feed wheel (roller) or the cable or ????

 

[nutz]

Do you use the cable spray ...
Mine has never run 100% smoothly

 

[volaredon]

Cable spray?

 

[nutz]

yea you spay the cable feed with it
I never used it ...but have a can around
see if I can find it
I'm welding crappy exhaust 90% of the time
been a long time since I cared what my welds look like

 

[junior636]

I've been in the welding industry over 20 years professionally, my home shop has primeweld mig and tig and I'll never switch. The catch with the 5 year warranty on the everlast is you pay shipping to ship your machine to and from their repair facility. Primeweld stores not charge shipping for any services or parts. My tig was 1 year out of warranty and got struck by lightning. I called them up to see if I could buy the parts to repair it. I had 5 new boards shipped to my house free of charge in 2 days. Do you know of any other company's that would do that? Their machines have held up to my car building and side business out of my barn, they are well built.

 

[Rick@Laysons]

Here's a tip to help keep your liner clean and maybe last a little longer.....

Get some LINT FREE material like a CLEAN shop rag(I cut a corner off of a full sized rag), and wrap it around the wire before it goes thru the rollers. It must be dry because you don't want to contaminate the wire. I used some painter's tape to secure it in place, but you could use a clothespin or a zip tie too.

The wire can get a static charge built up in it, and it will attract metal shavings and dust. This helps to keep it out of the rollers and the liner. I change this out every time I change spools.

Not the best pic in the world....but you get the idea.....

 

[volaredon]

Seems any kind of spray would cause to draw dirt and sult and grit and cause more problems than it might solve.
I had the cover off my machine recently and I was quite surprised at how much had accumulated in there. And my unit has never been in an industrial setting, been in my home garage since I bought it brand new.
On another note
Our 110powered miller 135 that I mostly use for exhaust work "at" work has been a great machine, don't know an age bit it's at least 10 to as that's how long I've been at that location.
It balled up (birds nested) on me the last time I used it. I'm thinking it's getting to need a new drive roll as I've had to crank the tensioner more and more as time has gone on, I've had slippage problems here and there over the years. For probably the last 6-7 years I'm the only one who ever uses it. We've only ever run 0.023 in it.

 

[volaredon]

I've had a few off brand ones and have used Lincoln miller and Hobart branded machines, I think I'll stick with miller or Hobart.

 

[nutz]

Here's a tip to help keep your liner clean and maybe last a little longer.....

Get some LINT FREE material like a CLEAN shop rag(I cut a corner off of a full sized rag), and wrap it around the wire before it goes thru the rollers. It must be dry because you don't want to contaminate the wire. I used some painter's tape to secure it in place, but you could use a clothespin or a zip tie too.

The wire can get a static charge built up in it, and it will attract metal shavings and dust. This helps to keep it out of the rollers and the liner. I change this out every time I change spools.

Not the best pic in the world....but you get the idea.....
View attachment 1716414271

My matco had a sponge thing that clipped on the wire like that
Wish I knew who built it
I know it's over 35 years old ...and never let me down

 

[barbee6043]

My matco had a sponge thing that clipped on the wire like that
Wish I knew who built it
I know it's over 35 years old ...and never let me down

I had guys tell me to run the wire thru an ear plug, but it did not help.
I keep telling my old self " this is the last build!"

 

[nutz]

Think that just keeps stuff from building up the the cable

 

[HankRearden]

well I went down the Amazon rabbit hole and made a couple purchases.

I got this little guy for 40 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HD97SD9?tag=fabo03-20

Very basic and ground clamp is a joke. But I measured 120 amps on 110. I've been using it outside because it is small and light primarily on sheetmetal.


Then I took a chance on this chinese special.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1X7Z84K?tag=fabo03-20

My ammeter cant get a consistent reading on this for some reason. I have been too busy to do much testing on heavy stuff but this is the best sheetmetal welder I've ever used. I love it for that alone.
But ground clamp is garbage.

When this falls short I plan to order the primeweld 285. But I don't have much planned now that needs a lot of power in a welder.

 

[toplscuda]

I had guys tell me to run the wire thru an ear plug, but it did not help.
I keep telling my old self " this is the last build!"

First thing to check is to make sure the wire reel turns with little effort. Make sure the drive roll groove matches the wire size. Then if all that checks ok remove the gun and slide the liner out. My bet is there is a slight kink in the liner. Even a very minor one will cause feed issues

 

[barbee6043]

First thing to check is to make sure the wire reel turns with little effort. Make sure the drive roll groove matches the wire size. Then if all that checks ok remove the gun and slide the liner out. My bet is there is a slight kink in the liner. Even a very minor one will cause feed issues

Worse thing in the world is trying to mig weld to thin and rusted wire, $ guys replace the whole floor and sometimes can actually buy a stamped panel!
I got a different brand wire and it helped and stepped up wire sped a smidgin.
Been doing this since the 70s and with a cheap welded the last 25 or so. I had a cheap Lincoln before this Hobart which back 25 years ago was bought out by Lincoln, This Hobert has never welded worth a crap. Back in Mo. a body guy just down the road had the same model Hobert and he said same about his.
But I got it all down. Now the the darn filler work! Too darn old for this. 95 degrees and heat index is just 105-7. No wind. It will get warmer!!

 

[barbee6043]

well I went down the Amazon rabbit hole and made a couple purchases.

I got this little guy for 40 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HD97SD9?tag=fabo03-20

Very basic and ground clamp is a joke. But I measured 120 amps on 110. I've been using it outside because it is small and light primarily on sheetmetal.


Then I took a chance on this chinese special.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1X7Z84K?tag=fabo03-20

My ammeter cant get a consistent reading on this for some reason. I have been too busy to do much testing on heavy stuff but this is the best sheetmetal welder I've ever used. I love it for that alone.
But ground clamp is garbage.

When this falls short I plan to order the primeweld 285. But I don't have much planned now that needs a lot of power in a welder.

Interesting!!!
darn mm!!!!
Heck I never knew they make .023 flux wire!??

 

[volaredon]

Been rebuilding a truck cab lately, converted my millermatic 185 (which I bought new in 1997 or 98) to 0.023 wire, had run some 0.030 but mostly 0.035 thru it since I've owned. Don't know if it's the age of the wire or what (most recent spool of 0.035 my son got "somewhere") but even welding heavier stuff it seems to weld better than it has in a while with the 0.023 in it but it's almost too hot for the cab metal even turned all the way down. One thing I wish I had in it is a "stitch" function.
I've been looking for a cheap smaller one for jobs like this. I remember doing some cab corners with the old astro MIG I had first (I did convert that one to gas, never did care one bit for flux core)
and until I burned that one out, one thing that machine was great for was sheet metal.
I have my eye on an older Hobart (black housing, I believe older than the Miller buyout) I'm thinking of going to get. For as often as I get into a sheet metal job anymore, (not often) this one is cheap enough that I don't care if it sits a little between uses.
Most around me want "brand new" price for old clapped out crap. I've contacted the guy with this little Hobart and told him that if he still has it when we do our campout in his area in about 6 weeks I'd come after it. Not Worth driving out of state just for this

 

[Cuda416]

May I break in and ask a question. I have a 110 Hobart that is about 20-25 years old. I bought it about the time Hobart was bought out by Miller. It had the feed cable replaced maybe 10 years ago. It never feeds wire smoothly. Is this the wire feed wheel (roller) or the cable or ????

When that happened to me with my MM180, it turned out to be slight corrosion on the wire itself. If you only weld occasionally, you might consider taking spool off and storing it someplace dry. Never had a problem until I moved to TX from the high desert. Also if you are't aware, you should adjust the wire wheel tensioner so that the wire curls up when you point the gun at something and pull the trigger. Adjust it until that just starts happening. I've not had a problem with feeding since I started doing those things.

 

[Cuda416]

Been rebuilding a truck cab lately, converted my millermatic 185 (which I bought new in 1997 or 98) to 0.023 wire, had run some 0.030 but mostly 0.035 thru it since I've owned. Don't know if it's the age of the wire or what (most recent spool of 0.035 my son got "somewhere") but even welding heavier stuff it seems to weld better than it has in a while with the 0.023 in it but it's almost too hot for the cab metal even turned all the way down. One thing I wish I had in it is a "stitch" function.
I've been looking for a cheap smaller one for jobs like this. I remember doing some cab corners with the old astro MIG I had first (I did convert that one to gas, never did care one bit for flux core)
and until I burned that one out, one thing that machine was great for was sheet metal.
I have my eye on an older Hobart (black housing, I believe older than the Miller buyout) I'm thinking of going to get. For as often as I get into a sheet metal job anymore, (not often) this one is cheap enough that I don't care if it sits a little between uses.
Most around me want "brand new" price for old clapped out crap. I've contacted the guy with this little Hobart and told him that if he still has it when we do our campout in his area in about 6 weeks I'd come after it. Not Worth driving out of state just for this

Thinner wire produces less heat which makes welding sheet metal WAY easier.

 

[nutz]

Only ever welded sheet metal or exhaust with mine
Ill post a pic when get back .it's a matco but think it's a miller or Lincoln....
Never had good luck with flux core
Back 30 year ago I could butt weld quarter panels haven't tried for years

 

[HankRearden]

Been rebuilding a truck cab lately, converted my millermatic 185 (which I bought new in 1997 or 98) to 0.023 wire, had run some 0.030 but mostly 0.035 thru it since I've owned. Don't know if it's the age of the wire or what (most recent spool of 0.035 my son got "somewhere") but even welding heavier stuff it seems to weld better than it has in a while with the 0.023 in it but it's almost too hot for the cab metal even turned all the way down. One thing I wish I had in it is a "stitch" function.
I've been looking for a cheap smaller one for jobs like this. I remember doing some cab corners with the old astro MIG I had first (I did convert that one to gas, never did care one bit for flux core)
and until I burned that one out, one thing that machine was great for was sheet metal.
I have my eye on an older Hobart (black housing, I believe older than the Miller buyout) I'm thinking of going to get. For as often as I get into a sheet metal job anymore, (not often) this one is cheap enough that I don't care if it sits a little between uses.
Most around me want "brand new" price for old clapped out crap. I've contacted the guy with this little Hobart and told him that if he still has it when we do our campout in his area in about 6 weeks I'd come after it. Not Worth driving out of state just for this

I've been rebuilding the cab on my 79 d200 as well.
.030 flux core can be done but it's tough.
I rigged up a 50 ft air hose to reach my mix gad cylinder and I've tried 3 different welders welding on this cab. The 219 dollar femerol with .030 solid is the tits for this! Highly recommend!

 

[volaredon]

Just finished welding in the new transmission tunnel tonight, went absolutely great, actually had to turn the wire feed up a bit and stop to crank up tension on the feed wire. I cut it and fit it up last night, I left the hole in the cab 1 to 1-1/4" smaller on each side than the new tunnel Last week one day I found a roper Whitney sheet metal punch via marketplace and went and got it after work, $20 well spent. I punched holes 1/4 to 3/8 from the edge of the donor tunnel every 2", I'd previously bought a set of Cleco's on feebay, they sure worked nice on this. I tried them on the floor patch I put in jjust inside the driver side between the threshold and the seat riser but punched my hiles just too far from the edge for all but a couple of Cleco's to catch there.
They worked great on the new tunnel. Fit up was great except I ended up "too wide" at the driver side front corner, had to weld 1/2 inch, hammer, weld 1/2", hammer, weld 1/2" repeat from both the front edge and the driver side edge. But I Cleco'd it probably 85% of the rest of the way around. And didn't have to do hardly any hammering and dollying for that 85%. 2/3 of the front edge, 2/3 of the driver side and all of the passenger side and back edge fit up great, I welded it solid all the way around, an inch at a time. And skipped around the perimeter until I connected the inch long tacks.
I then put the lift up in the air (I'm working on the bare cab by itself, sitting on my 2 post lift) and hammered the tongue (overlapping original cab metal) and welded that solid , working around here and there like I had on the topside
(PLEASE DO AWAY WITH THESE FREAKING ADS! IVE HAD TO CLEAR MY BLOCKED SCREEN 7 FREAKING TIMES TO THIS POINT TO SEE WHAT IM DOING)
There's gonna be a lot less grinding needed to dress these welds than any others to this point on this project. I also touched up the bottom of the floor patch that I mostly welded in yesterday.
1 more night after work, of welding and grinding and it'll be ready for sandblasting and handing off to body shop jail..

 

[nutz]

What year truck are you building
Looks newer...88 ...
What you swapping man to auto ?

 

[volaredon]

I had to swap tunnels as I had the small 2wd automatic transmission tunnel originally and I'm putting in an NV4500.
Granny gear stick equipped trucks, 4wd and all club cabs got a bigger tunnel. I got this one out of a 90 club cab in my local junkyard which is nice because I don't know if the shifter hole for an NP435 is in the same place as the NV 4500 so I have a fresh canvas so to speak so I don't have to patch that in to get the shifter hole in just the right spot. Huge difference in area under this tunnel vs the original. My millermatic 185 has settled in well on heat setting #2, when I started blowing holes on #1 when I started this job.
I've burned thru 1/2 a bottle of 75 25 gas in redoing this cab.... Hoo boy... That means I get to go raise He11 that much sooner about AIRGAS ' BS "hazmat fee" on what is actually 2 inert gases... Meaning NOT HAZMAT.
I have 2 spots left to fix at the bottom of the back window pinch weld a 5/8" diameter hole to weld in on the roof and a spot probably 3-1/2x6 or so to patch in on the roof inner skin. Luckily all of this will be hidden by trim, carpet and in the case of the back bed wall repair by the front wall of the bed...
In case you don't know (I've mentioned it here somewhere along the way) it appears that whatever truck this cab started out on was an application where someone had reason to cut out the back cab wall and it was haphazardly "put back in" before the guy I got the cab from, owned the truck. It was my son's best buddy from HS, "high school ride" but it was like 20 years old when he got it and didn't even know that this "surgery" had been done with the cab. Someone put a back wall in out of another truck but did so with pop rivets and bondo. I ground that off, drilled out 66 pop rivets and welded it all in the right way.

 

[volaredon]

What year truck are you building
Looks newer...88 ...
What you swapping man to auto ?

No I'm swapping the other way. Auto to stick.
I bought my 83 D250 back, my son and I had the rusty body picked off at the local yard and we have all out of state sourced sheet metal, complete body to go back on. Cab is a 90 and is off of a Cummins dually cab and chassis. That tunnel coincidentally came from a 90 club cab in the local junkyard. Bed is a 91 from Colorado, rest of sheet metal is a Heinz 57 mix of 80s truck,
We have the title to the 90 cab and the title to the 83 VIN off the original frame (which I have had sandblasted and painted, and is the basis for the build) and the 83 truck's dash. We'll probably call it an 83 even though it will have an 86-90 grille to match the 88 core support.
I have EVERYTHING brand new suspension wise that MOOG ever made for an 80s D 250, new rear leaf springs, new stainless lines, new Gabriel ultra shocks, new drums and rotors, on hand already. It's gonna be my camper hauler.

 

[nutz]

So 360?....did they ever put a bb in that gen