Battery size or timing too high?

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junior636

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I have a 512 with the distributor locked, I had timing at 36 degrees and backed it down to 32 degrees and it still starts hard. I plan to buy an add on msd box to kill timing during starting but then I was wondering if my battery is sufficient. This is the battery I am using.

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What are you guys running for cca? What’s your initial timing it what are you doing if your distributor is locked out?
 
I have a 512 with the distributor locked, I had timing at 36 degrees and backed it down to 32 degrees and it still starts hard. I plan to buy an add on msd box to kill timing during starting but then I was wondering if my battery is sufficient. This is the battery I am using.

Pardon Our Interruption

What are you guys running for cca? What’s your initial timing it what are you doing if your distributor is locked out?


There is no reason to lock the timing out. You are pissing away power everywhere. This is a provable fact.

Figure out how to get a curve in it and you won’t need any retard boxes or **** like that. And you’ll make way more power.
 
My 440 used to be locked out at 36. I was using a 15 year old Optima red top and a mopar high torque dakota starter, it started just fine.

On a side note, I have the same battery, now 25 years old starting the car just fine, but I have it set to 18 initial and have a timing curve in it now.
 
There is no reason to lock the timing out. You are pissing away power everywhere. This is a provable fact.

Figure out how to get a curve in it and you won’t need any retard boxes or **** like that. And you’ll make way more power.
I have never heard that less timing makes more power. I’m not arguing, but do you have some evidence to show that?
 
I have never heard that less timing makes more power. I’m not arguing, but do you have some evidence to show that?


Nope. I just made that all up.

And I never said a WORD about LESS timing. I said get a curve in it.

I’ll ask you this simple question. How does you engine want the same timing at idle as it does at peak torque and as it does at peak power?

Was the factory stupid by using a curve?

I’ll also add that you have no idea what your timing is if you lock it out. Bet everything you have that your timing retards with rpm.

Unless you get your timing light on it at idle, and then every 500 rpm or at least every 1000 rpm you have no clue what your actual timing is.
 

People would have to know this guy is cranking compression before they State how their engine would start just fine with 30 something degrees timing
 
Nope. I just made that all up.

And I never said a WORD about LESS timing. I said get a curve in it.

I’ll ask you this simple question. How does you engine want the same timing at idle as it does at peak torque and as it does at peak power?

Was the factory stupid by using a curve?

I’ll also add that you have no idea what your timing is if you lock it out. Bet everything you have that your timing retards with rpm.

Unless you get your timing light on it at idle, and then every 500 rpm or at least every 1000 rpm you have no clue what your actual timing is.
No need to be self righteous, is it possible to ask questions and learn something here? Every time someone chimes in with their holy than thou attitude. I was asking questions, to which you’ve provided no proof other than your opinion. I’m not even arguing with you. A curve would involve less timing and you say I’m losing power by not using a curve…. So yes you did say that.

Now, I don’t have the springs or bushings so I’m working with what I have, currently. I have considered switching to a curve but I’ve never heard that locking out the timing loses power.
 
No need to be self righteous, is it possible to ask questions and learn something here? Every time someone chimes in with their holy than thou attitude. I was asking questions, to which you’ve provided no proof other than your opinion. I’m not even arguing with you. A curve would involve less timing and you say I’m losing power by not using a curve…. So yes you did say that.

Now, I don’t have the springs or bushings so I’m working with what I have, currently. I have considered switching to a curve but I’ve never heard that locking out the timing loses power.


What “proof” do you want? Your question makes the assumption that I come on here and make **** up.

There are many videos, some of them mine are all over YouTube PROVING these boxes retard.

The problem is no two boxes, even the same part number boxes won’t start to retard at the same rpm and they most likely won’t retard the same amount.

That’s why I said you have no clue what your timing is unless you verify it at at least every 1000 rpm.

Depending on your rpm, your engine may only have 30-31 degrees at max rpm. Maybe less, maybe a bit more depending on YOUR PARTICULAR BOX.

That’s the FACT. I know the rail birds and shoe polish tuners will argue the point but it’s easily proven.

That means that the guys who actually use a timing light at the track still have no idea what their actual timing is.

So you at a minimum need to clean that up if you refuse to use a curve.

You didn’t say what your max rpm is, where peak torque and peak power occur, how much compression you have and what cylinder heads you have. So how am I supposed to educate you on your engine? Because we are taking about YOUR engine, and they aren’t all the same.

We also don’t know your converter stall speed. That matters.

The simple FACT is, and this was proven decades ago that engines want LESS timing at peak torque and MORE timing at peak power.

How does that happen if you lock out the timing??

I’m not saying you won’t end up at 36 total, but unless you are running shitty heads, big rpm or both 36 is pretty high for a good chamber.

So you can lock out your timing, spend money on a retard box so you can start it and you still won’t know what your actual timing is. And I promise you the engine will be down 20-25 on torque and 25-30 hp at peak power.

I see it on the dyno all the time. BTW, if you go to a dyno and they don’t develop a curve or don’t know how to do it find a better dyno shop.
 
Just a thought...

What if you keep your locked out timing but killed the ignition till you flip a switch.

you crank the engine and once it is spinning you flip the switch to fire it.

Might be easier on the starter?
 
Now I remember why I stopped coming on this page for years.
I'll give you an example, I had a locked out distributor, 470 ci that wouldn't hardly overcome the load of the Dyno. @Newbomb Turk took the time to put a curve in the distributor. It took 2 or 3 pulls on the Dyno getting the distributor to advance slower and slower in lower rpm. once it did my carbs tuned easier and it went from 660 HP up to 685 in 2 more Dyno pulls after figuring out what the carbs needed to be. Btw my engine makes a lot of cylinder pressure and is 12.9:1 and never kicked back on the starter.
 
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Here's the proof. Just grab the distributor and crank the timing WAY down. Now see if the engine turns over. Not interested in running. Just see if it turns over. If it does, there's your answer.
 
Here's the proof. Just grab the distributor and crank the timing WAY down. Now see if the engine turns over. Not interested in running. Just see if it turns over. If it does, there's your answer.
There, proof from you, proof of more power from me, it's settled...the op must put a curve in.
 
If the battery is in the trunk, not big enough IMO.
You're a wiring guru ? I think I read a bunch of tech stuff you've written.
I will definitely be going through all of that.
To the OP, his opinion is a fine opinion.
 
Yeah he's purdy dang good at it.
First time I met Tim over here was working on a duster and he was doing something to the headlights and mentioned he needed to talk to him since it was something he made.
 
First time I met Tim over here was working on a duster and he was doing something to the headlights and mentioned he needed to talk to him since it was something he made.
I have his headlight relay harness on Vixen. It's super good quality. He knows what he's doin when he's awake. lol
 
I have never heard that less timing makes more power. I’m not arguing, but do you have some evidence to show that?

Correct timing makes the most power, not more or less. Engines need different timing for max efficiency (power) depending on RPM and load. It takes experimentation to get there, 36° might make the most torque at a specific RPM at WOT but below that speed it will want less. In a light car with a high-stall converter or short gears and a stick the engine doesn't spend much time below peak torque under high load which is why people are able to get away with locked out distributors and not notice a significant power loss. Also as RPM increases in basically any electronic ignition system whether factory style or MSD, etc the actual timing becomes less and power is given up.

Long-winded way to say, put a curve in it...
 
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