New water pump leaks

[Bob Jasinski]

I fired up the rebuilt 273 in my '65 FS for the first time and proceeded with the initial 30 minute break-in. I followed the engine rebuilder's guidelines and pre-oiled with the priming tool (from Summit). Per instructions, I did not let it idle, and kept the RPMs between 2,000 and 3,000 over a 30 minute period. It ran good. The next day I fired it up again and discovered a bad seal leak in the new water pump. Shut the engine down, and even with the engine off, it continued to leak from the seal weep hole. This is a new pump bought several years ago from Rock Auto, GMB brand:

More Information for GMB 1201250

I removed the pump, even though the Rock Auto listing by GMB says some seal initial leakage is not considered to be a defect. I don't agree with that, I don't want this water pump in my car, the coolant came out like a faucet on low. I'm looking at new pumps, but want a high quality pump this time. Summit has a selection of several, higher end pumps that include the FlowKooler High Flow pump, and the Miloden high volume:

FlowKooler 1701 FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pumps | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Water Pumps, Mechanical at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

and the Miloden high volume:

Milodon 16251 Milodon Mechanical Water Pumps | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Milodon Mechanical Water Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Water Pumps, Mechanical at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I want a high quality pump that will hold up well, however, the above pumps are listed as high flow and high volume. If I install one of these pumps, does that mean I need to also replace the thermostat with a high flow type? I saw absolutely no overheating during the 30 minute run, the temp gauge barely got to the middle mark. System is very clean, new core in radiator. I just want a stock looking high quality pump. Should I go with one of the above, or stick with a standard volume pump? Is there a downside to the hi-volume, high flow pumps? Not trying to save money here, I just want to replace the pump and move forward. Looking for recommendations.

 

[AJ/FormS]

My Milodon Hi Flow was new in year 2000, and it's still on the car.
I bought the hi-flo cuz ;
Cuz I have always run Mopars, and they all tended to throw belts off somewhere over 5500.
Will, I wasn't planning to go 7200, it just happened one day, and when I heard the sound coming out of dual 3" pipes, I was hooked. So, I went looking for some underdrive pulleys.
I reasoned that with underdrive, I might need a higher-flow pump.
To round things up;
I installed a 7-blade, high-attack angle, all-steel Mopar-fan, on a Ford thermostatic clutch.
Between that and a hi-flo 195 thermostat, my system, after reaching operating temp never exceeds 207*F, no matter how much I abuse the engine.
And she has never thrown the belt.

 

[mopar head]

My stock pump was new in 72 and still on the engine. lol knock on wood

 

[Bob Jasinski]

My Milodon Hi Flow was new in year 2000, and it's still on the car.

Are you running a stock thermostat, or hi flow?

 

[4spdragtop]

1966 PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA 4.5L 273cid V8 Water Pump | Shop Now at RockAuto

 

[slantsixdan]

I'm looking at new pumps, but want a high quality pump this time.

G,F, & L on that. The days of buying worthy parts for our cars at the parts store are more or less over. Parts quality, from once-reputable brands, for new cars is in the toilet. Let alone for old cars where there's almost no money to be made and the only reason they keep them in the line is to be able to entice distributors by padding the size of their parts count. Yours is the second report I've had on this board this week of this exact same nature (new Mopar LA water pump leaks).

So you sort of have to hit the sweet spot: a new old stock pump made long enough ago that the maker still considered it important to give a crap about what they were doing, and did so themselves rather than farming it out to Shining Great Wall Red Star Auspicious Traffic Industrial Concern Shenzhen Co Ltd…but not so long ago that the seal is dried up and no good any more. Worst-case scenario is you buy a worthy NOS pump and a rebuild kit for it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

CVF makes decent pumps. I've used a few with success.

 

[junkyardhero]

flowkooler, absolutely worth the extra coin. grab their recommended t-stat with it.

i've been running their stuff since the late 90's and it's always been top quality.

 

[Bob Jasinski]

flowkooler, absolutely worth the extra coin. grab their recommended t-stat with it.

i've been running their stuff since the late 90's and it's always been top quality.

I'm leaning towards the Flowkooler pump, original looking and high quality piece.

 

[Bob Jasinski]

CVF makes decent pumps. I've used a few with success.

Thanks Rusty. I checked out the CVF site and also found them on Amazon. There is one review that states the 273/318/340 version has fine threads for the fan mount instead of course like stock. I want to stick with my stock bolts.

 

[Professor Fate]

After having pumps leak, have bad bearing(s) right out of the box, drive flanges pressed on at the wrong height, etc.; I've given up on new pumps.
I rebuild them myself.
ASE INDUSTRIES – AUTOMOTIVE WATER PUMP COMPONENTS
Having a press helps, but is not mandatory- a big vise and a couple of steel sleeves will get you there.
Once you've done one and see how basic it is, you'll never need to buy a new one unless the housing is roached.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks Rusty. I checked out the CVF site and also found them on Amazon. There is one review that states the 273/318/340 version has fine threads for the fan mount instead of course like stock. I want to stick with my stock bolts.

Yeah, don't want points knocked off for using the "wrong" thread pitch.

 

[mopar head]

Yeah, don't want points knocked off for using the "wrong" thread pitch.

I looked on that site also, I could only find pumps with the right side inlet, earlier pumps are on the left side, afaik

 

[RustyRatRod]

I looked on that site also, I could only find pumps with the right side inlet, earlier pumps are on the left side, afaik

Who messes around with that junk?

 

[mopar head]

Who messes around with that junk?

What... the company you recommended?

 

[RustyRatRod]

What... the company you recommended?

I was talkin about left side inlets.

 

[mopar head]

I was talkin about left side inlets.

What`s wrong with them? I`ve been running one for over 20+ years on a 69 340.

 

[4spdragtop]

Left side here, I like period correct look.
I put an NOS one on our 340 no issues. Ive also bought a repop of the older version with no issues from National Moparts.

 

[Bob Jasinski]

Yeah, don't want points knocked off for using the "wrong" thread pitch.

Rusty, It wasn't just the bolts, but as noted the inlet is on the wrong side, and the pumps are aluminum, not steel. We've had this conversation before, I like an original look and like to use original parts if I can. We have a big tent here, why pick on me because I like originality, its getting old.

 

[4spdragtop]

This is one i bought.
1957-69 Poly & Small Block Engine Water Pump-Aftermarket – National Mo-Parts

 

[4spdragtop]

I will say the one i bought needed slight grinding on a boss or 2 where the triangular alt bracket bolts on.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Rusty, It wasn't just the bolts, but as noted the inlet is on the wrong side, and the pumps are aluminum, not steel. We've had this conversation before, I like an original look and like to use original parts if I can. We have a big tent here, why pick on me because I like originality, its getting old.

Suck it up buttercup. I was just messin with you.

 

[Cal Tonsley]

My Milodon Hi Flow was new in year 2000, and it's still on the car.
I bought the hi-flo cuz ;
Cuz I have always run Mopars, and they all tended to throw belts off somewhere over 5500.
Will, I wasn't planning to go 7200, it just happened one day, and when I heard the sound coming out of dual 3" pipes, I was hooked. So, I went looking for some underdrive pulleys.
I reasoned that with underdrive, I might need a higher-flow pump.
To round things up;
I installed a 7-blade, high-attack angle, all-steel Mopar-fan, on a Ford thermostatic clutch.
Between that and a hi-flo 195 thermostat, my system, after reaching operating temp never exceeds 207*F, no matter how much I abuse the engine.
And she has never thrown the belt.

Funny thing for me that when I bought my Milodon WP 6 or 7 years ago it was actually a GMB pump in the box!
I should say that it has worked fine on my car up until now and that these pumps are normally pretty good in my experience!

 

[Kendog 170]

I saved my 340 pump years back. I should try rebuilding it for a spare. Thanks

After having pumps leak, have bad bearing(s) right out of the box, drive flanges pressed on at the wrong height, etc.; I've given up on new pumps.
I rebuild them myself.
ASE INDUSTRIES – AUTOMOTIVE WATER PUMP COMPONENTS
Having a press helps, but is not mandatory- a big vise and a couple of steel sleeves will get you there.
Once you've done one and see how basic it is, you'll never need to buy a new one unless the housing is roached.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

I never had any luck with parts from Rock Auto. . My friend just bought loaded struts from them for an Avenger. He installed them and when taking it for a ride the coils hit the towers. . Wrong coils. Because he installed them he cannot return them .