PCE281.1654 Speedmaster heads for 360 LA

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acastro22

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Does anyone know if these heads come ready to go (requiring only assembly and valve lapping) or if they require a full valve job.
I already have all the valve train components and was just curious to see how much these heads would take to run properly.
Link to part:
Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 170cc 65cc Aluminum Bare Cylinder Head

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They will "run" ootb.

The valve job isn't the greatest however and the lower lift flow numbers aren't all that better than a stock 2.02 iron head because of that...so that's something to improve.
 
They will "run" ootb.

The valve job isn't the greatest however and the lower lift flow numbers aren't all that better than a stock 2.02 iron head because of that...so that's something to improve.
Thank you for the info. I’ll have my shop look them over before install.
 
I got two sets of these. I took them both into the machine shop to get them inspected and set up for the cams I had for them. The machinist said they were pretty good looking inside but needed lapping and the springs changed to match the cam. I'm just running a cruiser so max effort isn't needed for me.
 
Does anyone know if these heads come ready to go (requiring only assembly and valve lapping) or if they require a full valve job.
I already have all the valve train components and was just curious to see how much these heads would take to run properly.
Link to part:
Mopar Chrysler SB 318 340 360 170cc 65cc Aluminum Bare Cylinder Head

View attachment 1716457193
Factor in a valve job cost. I think the bare heads usually come with valve seats installed but not finished.
 
Thank you for the info. I’ll have my shop look them over before install.

I am doing a set for myself.

The guides were too tight and I run my guides tighter than most.

The valve job looks like it was done in 1977.

I won’t go into the rest of it because you are not going to port them (I assume you won’t be porting them) but there is no way I would not have them at least have them checked out by a competent machinist who has an actual bore gauge for valve guides.

Or not and hope your lucky horseshoe is point up so all the luck didn’t run out.
 
I am doing a set for myself.

The guides were too tight and I run my guides tighter than most.

The valve job looks like it was done in 1977.

I won’t go into the rest of it because you are not going to port them (I assume you won’t be porting them) but there is no way I would not have them at least have them checked out by a competent machinist who has an actual bore gauge for valve guides.

Or not and hope your lucky horseshoe is point up so all the luck didn’t run out.
I’ll definitely do that because I’d rather pay and confirm they’re good then have no idea the condition they’re in ootb.
 
I am doing a set for myself.

The guides were too tight and I run my guides tighter than most.

The valve job looks like it was done in 1977.

I won’t go into the rest of it because you are not going to port them (I assume you won’t be porting them) but there is no way I would not have them at least have them checked out by a competent machinist who has an actual bore gauge for valve guides.

Or not and hope your lucky horseshoe is point up so all the luck didn’t run out.
To clarify, did you start with bare castings or the assembled version?
 

If you wait till November they should have their 40% of sale they’ve done it the last view yrs. I bought the CNC versions. There is no head that is truly OTB ready to run from one pair to the next. Regardless the best policy is to break it down and inspect. You be amazed what you find sometimes. I found aluminum shavings in mine, guides are dry and tight, I’ll add some oil let em eat to self clearance, and I like to lap the valves in myself as well I like a consistent seat to valve contact. Thinking I might back cut the valves to help the low lift numbers. For the money they are decent workable castings.
 
It’s interesting to hear all the “tight guide” responses.

If bought as “assembled heads”, I can’t think of any import heads I’ve had in the shop in ages that had tight guides.
The guides are usually right at about .3430”, and the valves are rarely over .3413”(and are typically.3405-.3410”).

If you’re building them up from bare heads, and using more “name brand” valves, you can get into guide clearance issues, as the valves can have .001-.0015” larger stems.

I just had a set of assembled SM Olds heads here to look over. Guide clearance was between .002-.0025”.

Should they be checked out?
Yes, it’s a good idea.
It’s the only way to know what you’ve got.
 
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