Axel-Flip questions

-
I did this 3 weeks ago just for fun.

View attachment 1716466884

View attachment 1716466885

View attachment 1716466886

I didn't weld anything, I just cut the perches off and put them on top of the axle, bolted it back up and took pictures.

View attachment 1716466887

SUPER rake.

View attachment 1716466888

Now with the torsion bar screws maxxed out:

View attachment 1716466889

It looks silly but hey...I just was messing around for fun. I never measured anything but it is more than 3 inches taller. When doing a FLIP, you add the thickness of the spring pack to the diameter of the axle to get the total amount of difference in height.
Most 1/2 ton trucks with a flip kit are in the 6 inch range. This looks at least 5 inches higher in back.
:lol::realcrazy:
 

I had a 73 Duster that I enjoyed driving in dirt and mud...

View attachment 1716466919

It was really twitchy with the front end up this high. I learned why many years later when I saw how our cars alignment changes during the range of suspension travel. The higher the front is, the LESS caster you have. It goes negative just above stock ride height. Negative caster steers easier but will wander and drift around a LOT.
Used to have a 67 Dart that was my daily driver but getting kinda rusty and the pinion seal was taken out by some chicken wire after taking a short cut though a field and didn't know it was leaking until the gears let know they were dry. Had some fun with the /6 and 3.91 gears in the back. Did a few simple mods like flex fan, open air cleaner, straight pipe, good tune up etc. When it came time for it to go, I had a 'private' demo derby in a field with a dump truck load of dirt that had been there for a long time. The place had some big trees too which helped with the fun. Ended up twisting the thing....LF high, RR high. Went over the dirt hill several times before hitting it hard. Got good air but I didn't hit it dead center. The RR landed first and that made the LF hit hard. Bout jarred my teeth out lol but the car was still drivable and got back home with it.
 
CM 2.png


It is either I busy myself by tinkering on the cars or post silly things on these forums. (Kidding)
Which do you prefer?
It is rainy today so I'm inside and away from the cars!
 
It's purely aesthetic. 5mph is the "speed limit" for wasteland weekend since there are tons of people walking around.

I don't think air shocks will give me the height I'm after.

Front will remain low. Want it raked.
Better to just put Hellwig bolt on helper springs. Than to put all the load on the shock mounts. The shock mount areas are not designed to carry a load.
 
In high school I had air shocks and cranked up torsion bars and off roaded a lot. That poor car.
 
Last edited:
The diff won’t be upside down. You just put the perches on the tops of the tubes. It’s not any different than most truck rear axles that are configured the same way
I have never heard that term before I took it literally.

I would have said flip the perches.

I have seen people literally flip the diff on 4WD for ground clearance / pinion angle reasons.

I assume they have a reversing interface to keep forward forward
 
AI does not understand the difference between going in reverse and forward...
 
I have never heard that term before I took it literally.

I would have said flip the perches.

I have seen people literally flip the diff on 4WD for ground clearance / pinion angle reasons.

I assume they have a reversing interface to keep forward forward

Axle flip?

It’s a pretty common term. Lots of use in the hot rod truck crowd that lower their trucks. If you search “flip kit” at summit you get about 100 different results for kits the have what you need to flip the perches and c-notch the rear frame rails.

Flipping the diff doesn’t work unless you like going the wrong direction. I know there is such a thing as reverse cut gears for certain heavy duty axles, but that’s not at all common.

There are high and low pinion versions of some axles, like the common Dana 44 and Dana 60 both have “high pinion” versions for more ground clearance. I have a high pinion D44 in my old Ford. Typically that’s what the 4x4 crowd wants.
 
There are high and low pinion versions of some axles, like the common Dana 44 and Dana 60 both have “high pinion” versions for more ground clearance. I have a high pinion D44 in my old Ford. Typically that’s what the 4x4 crowd wants
That's probably what I'm thinking of
 
I agree, the air shock route would be easier but I'm told the upper shock supports are not too beefy. The ride gets real stiff with enough air to lift the car this high. The axle flip is obnoxious but the ride stays similar since the spring rate is unchanged. The white Dart Lite had a 7 1/4" axle that I pulled out and sold. I stuffed a 2.76 axle back in just to keep the car a roller. The 2.76 had the differential in pieces inside so I figured just to mess around with it by relocating the perches to the top. I have no idea of the pinion angle. There are no plans to build this car so this was all just me playing around.
I've read that for a reasonably fast street car, you want between 2 to 4 degrees nose DOWN. I can't see that working well on a lifted vehicle. Can you imagine the bind the U joints would be in with the pinion pointing down? I've read that you want a difference between the front u joint to rear u joint to be within 2 degrees of each other.
U joint angles and driveshaft speeds are an interesting thing. Check out this video I saw on a drag racing site:



It is interesting to me anyway.

That video solved my vibation in my Tundra 2 piece drive shaft. I always had a vibration since I bought it 5 years ago. I marked everything and did center bearing and u joints (Spicer) still had it.
Well apparently someone before me didn't mark it and the phasing was off.
Thanks
 
Last edited:
It’s relatively simple really. Cut off the perches, flip the springs to the other side of the axle, weld on new perches. But, you have to get the pinion angle correct at the new ride hight.
I have change locations of perches before and never had a problem. I removed the existing perches with a die grinder, carefully and reinstalled them where needed. Set the car with the rearend as needed and mark. Remove the rear and weld. I'm not a welder but I did do all the hard work. I did raise my B300 van by turning the shackles around.
 
I've never seen nor heard tell of anyone being stupid enough to actually flip an axle upside down. The only axle flip I've ever seen anyone do is flip the axle from the top to the bottom of the springs as in to raise a truck or go from the bottom to the top of the springs to lower it. Each time the perches are relocated to accommodate the axle in the new position. Flipping an axle upside down is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of.
 
I did this 3 weeks ago just for fun.

View attachment 1716466884

View attachment 1716466885

View attachment 1716466886

I didn't weld anything, I just cut the perches off and put them on top of the axle, bolted it back up and took pictures.

View attachment 1716466887

SUPER rake.

View attachment 1716466888

Now with the torsion bar screws maxxed out:

View attachment 1716466889

It looks silly but hey...I just was messing around for fun. I never measured anything but it is more than 3 inches taller. When doing a FLIP, you add the thickness of the spring pack to the diameter of the axle to get the total amount of difference in height.
Most 1/2 ton trucks with a flip kit are in the 6 inch range. This looks at least 5 inches higher in back.
Wouldn't look silly with the right wheel and tire configuration. Arent we all getting a little board with OE numbers perfection? I am. We don't have much time left with these cars, have fun.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom