Brainstormin' 440 vs 5.9 ...

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You want the BB, just do it. Said it in the thread. Always planned on a BB for it.

Port the iron heads, 509 type 108 lsa cam in at 100-102, headers, RPM/street dom intake, 1-2" super sucker and a true 850-950 carb.
Heads will make it go... they (oem) are the choke point.

Good 3000-3500 converter (likely most important piece)

Go have some fun with it.
 
You want the BB, just do it. Said it in the thread. Always planned on a BB for it.

Port the iron heads, 509 type 108 lsa cam in at 100-102, headers, RPM/street dom intake, 1-2" super sucker and a true 850-950 carb.
Heads will make it go... they (oem) are the choke point.

Good 3000-3500 converter (likely most important piece)

Go have some fun with it.
Yep! It has either a Torker II or Street Dominator on it now. Can't remember, but seems the later now. LOL For starters.... Converter will be the one behind the 5.9 now. Carb will be the one on the 5.9 now. Who knows what I'll decide over the winter on how much I'll spend. May throw it in there as is for starters just to see what a smogger RV 440 will run in a D150. Could I push a 13.9 out of her ??? LOL
 
Yep! It has either a Torker II or Street Dominator on it now. Can't remember, but seems the later now. LOL For starters.... Converter will be the one behind the 5.9 now. Carb will be the one on the 5.9 now. Who knows what I'll decide over the winter on how much I'll spend. May throw it in there as is for starters just to see what a smogger RV 440 will run in a D150. Could I push a 13.9 out of her ??? LOL
It would be interesting to start stock ish and go from there.
 
You don't need mid/high CR to make power, airflow makes power cr just squeezes more out of it sure 10.5 or even 13.5+ would be better but no reason you can't make 400-450+ hp with reasonable mods.
You can make over 500 hp + with 9.5 cr pushing the cam a bit with decent head work, but that’s two points over the rv 440 and that you need to work for or buy pistons which is what I recommend. You can drop 200 grams per piston over stock pistons +compression.
 
You can make over 500 hp + with 9.5 cr pushing the cam a bit with decent head work, but that’s two points over the rv 440 and that you need to work for or buy pistons which is what I recommend. You can drop 200 grams per piston over stock pistons +compression.
If 318willrun wants to run higher compression I'm for it, but doesn't seem like he wants to spend $$$ on it which is also fine, he'll still make power just about 10% less and there's nothing stopping him down the road doing do later if he ever chooses.
 
500 hp is within reach with a 300 cfm head and complimenting camshaft without increasing compression.
Trick flow head would do the trick and the 75cc chamber would increase compression around a point or so.
 
If 318willrun wants to run higher compression I'm for it, but doesn't seem like he wants to spend $$$ on it which is also fine, he'll still make power just about 10% less and there's nothing stopping him down the road doing do later if he ever chooses.
eventually I'll spend the money is the plan. Not sure it's this winter or not. All depends on if I get a whim... lol
 
500 hp is within reach with a 300 cfm head and complimenting camshaft without increasing compression.
Trick flow head would do the trick and the 75cc chamber would increase compression around a point or so.
I want your honest opinion. What do you think it will run in the truck just as it sits? I'm curious for my own reason.
 
well, if/when I go new pistons, probably should go .030 over since the one cylinder had rust. But, if/when I do pistons, then we'll be looking at a street friendly (pump gas in the very least) but making a little trq/hp. Did you have a part number in mind?
Are you using the cast iron open chamber heads?
 
Are you using the cast iron open chamber heads?
That's what I have now (452 / 906). Original plan was aluminum heads, Stealths at the very least. The 452's are fresh, new exhaust valves/valve job, commando valve springs, and cut .030. I did do a "little" bowl work and pinch work with the dremel, but nothing crazy. I think when we checked the 452's were good to around .510 lift. The 906 "look" fresh, but they are still bolted on the 383. I would have to investigate them to see if there was any work done on them.
 

I want your honest opinion. What do you think it will run in the truck just as it sits? I'm curious for my own reason.
mid to high 13's with your ability to tune, a bunch will be gained when you open up the heads and put in a complimenting camshaft, Whiplash or something similar
 
mid to high 13's with your ability to tune, a bunch will be gained when you open up the heads and put in a complimenting camshaft, Whiplash or something similar
Thanks. I thought a 13.9 would be a great run, but what do I know. And thanks for your vote of confidence that I will at least give it a chance to achieve something...
 
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Put a LS in it.

:lol:

Well done.

What does the truck weigh?
You can get 450hp out of the 440 you have with some decent headwork and 500-525 lift cam. The carb needs to be big enough to feed it. Running a 750 will probably have 1-2" of vacuum at higher rpms, that will be a tell that it's not enough carb.

Just a wild guess 450hp/390rwhp at 4000# can run a 12.90/108 or so at a 1500DA. That's good hook and efficiency. Converter/hook is the key
 
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:lol:

Well done.

What does the truck weigh?
You can get 450hp out of the 440 you have with some decent headwork and 500-525 lift cam. The carb needs to be big enough to feed it. Running a 750 will probably have 1-2" of vacuum at higher rpms, that will be a tell that it's not enough carb.

Just a wild guess 450hp/390rwhp at 4000# can run a 12.90/108 or so at a 1500DA. That's good hook and efficiency. Converter/hook is the key
I think the truck weighs about 3800 at the starting line right now. It already runs 12.9's with the 200,000 mile 360. If I build (even mildly) a 440, I want more than a 12.9.... and not a 12.85 either LOL
 
That's what I have now (452 / 906). Original plan was aluminum heads, Stealths at the very least. The 452's are fresh, new exhaust valves/valve job, commando valve springs, and cut .030. I did do a "little" bowl work and pinch work with the dremel, but nothing crazy. I think when we checked the 452's were good to around .510 lift. The 906 "look" fresh, but they are still bolted on the 383. I would have to investigate them to see if there was any work done on them.
Below is a picture and specs for a pro tru piston. I haven't used one of these but it looks like a good bang for buck. It comes with rings from Summit for $641.99. Advantages are 1/16 ring package, forged piston and although I couldn't find a weight on it it is likely lighter than stock. Another advantage of a flat top is it will give you good quench should you decide to upgrade to an aluminum heads at a later date. Also a forged piston will be more nitrous friendly should you decide to do that.

I did some rough calculations for compression ratio. Please check my work before you commit to anything. I think it is important to deck the block. I used .006" in the hole for my example. While not critical for an open chamber head it will be important if you at a later date decide to go with a closed chamber head. I used common felpro gaskets. There are other gaskets available which might change how much you deck the block.. The camshaft you chose will need to work with the compression and fuel you choose. So keep that in mind and think about how what you choose now might affect any changes you do in the future. Above all have a written plan on paper before you buy anything. Good luck with your build.

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Below is a picture and specs for a pro tru piston. I haven't used one of these but it looks like a good bang for buck. It comes with rings from Summit for $641.99. Advantages are 1/16 ring package, forged piston and although I couldn't find a weight on it it is likely lighter than stock. Another advantage of a flat top is it will give you good quench should you decide to upgrade to an aluminum heads at a later date. Also a forged piston will be more nitrous friendly should you decide to do that.

I did some rough calculations for compression ratio. Please check my work before you commit to anything. I think it is important to deck the block. I used .006" in the hole for my example. While not critical for an open chamber head it will be important if you at a later date decide to go with a closed chamber head. I used common felpro gaskets. There are other gaskets available which might change how much you deck the block.. The camshaft you chose will need to work with the compression and fuel you choose. So keep that in mind and think about how what you choose now might affect any changes you do in the future. Above all have a written plan on paper before you buy anything. Good luck with your build.

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Thanks for your efforts and posting. If not I, somebody may read this and use this info.
 
Thanks for your efforts and posting. If not I, somebody may read this and use this info.
This is a similar build. 440 stock stroke, stealth heads. re-cut seats, clean up bowls, .050 quench, 10.4:1, comp XE 274H, 750 holley, 1 7/8 headers. Numbers on this sheet are corrected to sae j607.

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