Recent content by 60Powerwagon

Thanks guys. For now I’m going to do sway bars and check all the bushings.

It’s a 72 Duster. Just street driving. It’s set up similar to 71GSSdemon’s above except it’s a bit higher in the front. It does hook good the way it is when I need it to. Yes the wheels are 10” and this is the only issue. Nothing inside rubs nor the right outside. I’m think a sway bar will solve...

I’m running 295/50-15’s on the back and everything clears fine except when making a right turns. When I do the body rolls and it’s rubbing the outer sidewall of the tire. Would SS springs cure it, should I just do a sway bar, or is it necessary to do both? If I put on springs I’m not real sure...

Pm sent

I’m looking for a couple cheap axles to make tools to rebuild my suregrip. I don’t need the whole axles just maybe a foot or so of two axles to use to line up the splines.

Exactly what I was thinking. Thank you

Of all I’m doing is installing a suregrip to replace my open carrier in my 8 3/4 489 housing I should be able to swap the ring gear, reinstall, set the backlash, and it should be good to go correct?

I’m not going to run them because I mainly drive streets. Looking at BFG radial ta’s for front and back. 155/80r15 for front, but torn between 275/60 and 295/50 for the rear

It’s a ‘72 Duster mild 360/727 (stalls about 2600) with 8 3/4 rear. It’s open right now, but I have a sure grip to install which is why I’m asking if I should change while I’m in there. It is a street car. It has no mini tubs, but I do have the kit to move the springs in when I get the chance...

I have a 3.23 rear. Im going from a 225/70r14 on stock wheels to a 275/60 or 295/50r15 on light weight weld knock offs. I like the way it performs on what I have, but I want a wider tire and I’m adding a suregrip. Will I be ok with what I have or should I go a bit deeper gearing while I’m at it?

I did some searching and there’s not a converter shop close to me. I did however find a place near Dallas, Performance Torque Converters of Texas. They seem to have a good reputation and will rebuild my converter to 2800 stall for $250. Does anyone know about them? I want to get this car back on...

Currently 3.23’s factory weight(around 3400 I think), current tire is a 225 but going to a 12.50 soon, stock converter I think, 360 bored .060 over with roller lifters and rpm air gap manifold and headers. I know the gear is a bit tall, but I also need to have decent rpm’s on the highway. May go...

My converter has not acted right since I got my car. It won’t allow it to idle in gear without some help from the throttle. I’m looking at a Hughes 24-25, but also want to get the best bang for my dollar. Probably going to swap the cam to a voodoo 268 while the motor is out. I’m trying to stay...

I think I’ve figured it out, and it makes me feel stupid. I did as suggested and removed the distributor, brought it up to TDC, rolled it back to about 12* btdc, put in the distributor and set it to #1 plug wire. Cranked a bit and it fired up and runs way better. I think I just had it far enough...

I guess that’s my next step. The factory timing marks only go 10* each way. I’ll pull it and reset like you said. Unfortunately I won’t be able to do that until Saturday evening so it will be eating at me until then.