Recent content by 68BarracudaTT

Success! Thanks for the input all. @Rick@Laysons I ended up with a price of rubber fuel line with a magnet shoved in the end. @clementine I had the cage installed. I don’t trust my welding skills with my life, all the other work is mine though.

Some additional info. I dropped the bolts in at the blue area, and they didn't come out in the red area. Also, there is a roll cage in the way. (the doors have been taken off since this picture).

Thanks for the input, but the doors and fenders are off the car. The bolts are in between the welded sheet metal below the A-pillar, and I can't see in there. the cavity looks to split in sort of a Y shape, the rear side should have dropped them to the area of the lower hinge, so they must have...

So I was taking the hinges off my car to clean them up, and I dropped one of the upper hinge bolts between the inner and outer body panels, apparently didn't learn my lesson and did the same thing on the other side. I have tried magnets and a grabber tool, but I haven't been able to retrieve...

Your odometer will think you are going farther than you actually are, so take 90% of your odometer reading when calculating MPG.

The lower bump stops are one of the things that are on order. The arms look to clear everything, I have already reworked the normal interference areas. I think I found the taller bump stops on Summit, energy suspension number 9.9136? From what I have read the difference in spindle height is not...

I am mocking up my suspension and notice the upper control arm is very far away from the bump stop. I am using the following parts: SPC upper control arm (2nd Gen) QA1 Strut Rods Boxed stock lower control arms F-Body spindles Sway away 1.24" torsion bar Setting the QA1 Strut Rod to be free...

Its going to be a race car, but I would like to get the area better looking while it is all apart. I did the best I could with the welder and grinder, but there are still some pin holes and a bit of waviness I would like to smooth out. Also, I added a picture to the original post of the area in...

Thanks all for the reply’s so far, I have updated the original post to show the area that needs some filler. It is just some self etching primer on there right now, but it will come off when I figure out what to fill it with.

Not all the spots, but I would say this is representative; It is the battery box area (It was rusted through and I removed the large support from the backside since the battery wont be under the hood). The other two areas are the closest to the exhaust where the shock towers (braces?) are.

So I did some rust repair on the inner fenders of my car. I butt welded in some new metal and ground it all down; it turned out pretty good, but not perfect. I want to skim coat it with something to smooth it all out, but since it will be near the exhaust, I want to make sure I use something...

It wasn’t too bad if you access to a mill, and a boring bar would have been ideal. Not sure about doing it on a lathe, you could probably center it on the bearing bore, but it might take a bit more time to fixture.

Thanks for the info, if the stock parts don’t fit up I’ll look at the Ford seals.

I went ahead and cut my aluminum extension housing to the same dimensions as the iron 30 spline unit I had. It wasn’t that much, less than 0.25 on the diameters, so not much reduction in the wall thickness. I did have to cut the seal bore about 0.1 deeper, but it shouldn’t affect anything. The...

Did it with my car. Rivnuts and a bunch of screws. The lip I built around the hole is pretty stiff, and it will be getting a cage, so it shouldn’t affect chassis stiffness.