Recent content by 73beast

I ran my summit brand pump, same style, there in that pocket in front of the right leaf spring for years. and when i pulled the pump just last week, it actually pulled a siphon, that would have completely drained my tank if I hadn't cracked the line at the tank. meaning its a decent spot as long...

Found this thread on a search, and thanks for the info! Solved my charging issue, had a bad connection at the firewall bulkhead connector. Mines a black wire from the alt to the bulkhead, was a cooked/corroded connection. Will bypass when I find a decent passthrough connector, just cleaned it...

May not be necessary for either, but I'd rather put the bulkhead fitting above the usual fuel level. I'm sure it's leakproof, but I'd rather give it every chance to succeed. Also looked cleaner with how I routed the fuel lines outside of the tank. Ran it to the bottom to kill splash. With the...

Assembling that return line inside the tank was like building a ship inside of a bottle.

In case anyone is curious this is how the tank turned out The flash may have the clearance hard to tell, but the return line is 3/8" off of the tank floor, and the pickup screen has a 1/16" gap off of the floor.

So I'm going to end up using the bulkhead fitting I already have. Not going to crowd the sending unit, so drilling the tank at the circle in the picture, and keeping it high so it's not always sitting in fuel. Going to attach a 3/8 aluminum tube to the back side of the fitting down to the bottom...

Good idea! What kind of sealing washers did you use?

Found this http://magnummopar.com/articles-and-how-to/tag/Walbro Looks like what you suggested. Wish I would have seen it earlier, before I spent $ on making my tank work... I agree it is the best option especially considering the tank is baffled and in tank pump. But close to $500.

So I'm setting up my return style electric pump fuel system with a stock 73 dart tank. Have all 3/8 hard line (and -6an braided line), summit electric pump for carb mounted in front of the right leaf spring, Holley bypass style regulator set up after the 750 holley carb, and a spectra 3/8"...

Used a 1/2-13 bottom tap, same as head bolt threads. Got my answer from their support line. I need their 6" tray stud kit 81151. My 81182 kit is 4.5" and according to them some, but not all, 318s will take that. Still hard to believe that will clear the crank. But with my 2" tall caps and...

Can't tell you the difference between the cap heights though I think the 360 studs might need the extra length for the smaller thread section to reach past it's longer stroke for the tray

Thanks for the clarification! I've always wondered about that. They put Allen keyways on the end of these studs, enough to put 5 pounds or so onto it. So I guess I won't be doing that

The bolts come a half inch away (or more)from the bottom, from what I can tell with comparing how the studs seat. And most of that had to be cut out by the tap. Not sure what is proper with installing studs. But these studs would only grab a couple threads (if any) if installed to the minimum...

This is the package in case anyone's curious Could be ARP bolts, but that is not indicated. At least packaged and sold by Milodon. So I'll be calling them on Monday. For now I just installed the crank main caps with the stock bolts, just so I can keep going. Makes more sense that they...

I've started final assembly on my 318. Was hoping to make progress today but ran into this roadblock. The windage tray studs from Milodon part #81182 were made too short. By roughly an inch, so not even close or use able. :banghead: So if I were to toss the washers and just position the...