Milodon windage tray studs defect/issue

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73beast

73beast

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I've started final assembly on my 318. Was hoping to make progress today but ran into this roadblock. The windage tray studs from Milodon part #81182 were made too short. By roughly an inch, so not even close or use able.

View attachment 1412388878572.jpg
View attachment 1412388915718.jpg
:banghead:
So if I were to toss the washers and just position the nut to barely grab all the threads it's still an 1/8" shorter than the original bolts. And as you can see from the pic if I seat the stud fully in the bolt holes, that I bottom tapped, all the threads are below the nut/washer land on the main cap.

Has anyone seen this before? Can I just order another set and hope that it was just a bad batch? Or is there another manufacturer that I can try? Really wish it wasn't too late in the evening to track down a customer service number and vent about this.
 
If it were me I'd just call ARP or whomever you got the studs from. While the product from ARP is always first class, misboxing, or extra pcs, or missing pcs are fairly common issues with them. I've never had a full set be wrong - so I'd bet they were misboxed. But I have had extras and been shorted over the years.
 
This is the package in case anyone's curious
View attachment 1412446988641.jpg
Could be ARP bolts, but that is not indicated. At least packaged and sold by Milodon. So I'll be calling them on Monday.

For now I just installed the crank main caps with the stock bolts, just so I can keep going. Makes more sense that they were misspackaged, like you say. I just hope for everyone else's sake (and my own) that there are not many more out there like this.
 
Milodon makes their own stuff (or most) on their own thread rolling equipment.
 
I had the same problem with the same Milodon hardware for my 340. Luckily, I found stock ones pretty cheap and used them.
 
Original bolts are not supposed to bottom out in the thread bore.

Is there any reason why studs should or should not bottom the thread bore?
 
autoxcuda said:
Original bolts are not supposed to bottom out in the thread bore.

Is there any reason why studs should or should not bottom the thread bore?
Click to expand...

The bolts come a half inch away (or more)from the bottom, from what I can tell with comparing how the studs seat. And most of that had to be cut out by the tap.

Not sure what is proper with installing studs. But these studs would only grab a couple threads (if any) if installed to the minimum height that would work with the tray.
The kit does say bottom tapping is necessary. But I guess that doesn't necessarily mean to bottom out the stud.
 
Studs get threaded in by hand, until the threads stop. They should not be "torqued" by themselves. Just threaded in by hand, then torque the nuts. Normally they're sized to reach close to the bottom of the hole which is why they say bottom tap the holes.
 
Thanks for the clarification! I've always wondered about that. They put Allen keyways on the end of these studs, enough to put 5 pounds or so onto it. So I guess I won't be doing that
 
That's to make it easy to install and remove. Not to torque heavy.
 
Studs should be threaded in by hand till they stop then a half turn out. As you torque the nut the stud will turn and if bottomed will strip the threads out of the block. I learned the hard way on a SBC when I first started at the first engine shop.
 
I see the package is marked for a 318. Are you building a 360? 360s have a larger main journal. IDK if it matters, but it could be that the main fasteners on the two different engines are different lengths. Can somebody clear that up?
 
73beast said:
I've started final assembly on my 318.
Click to expand...

Can't tell you the difference between the cap heights though

I think the 360 studs might need the extra length for the smaller thread section to reach past it's longer stroke for the tray
 
Dragonbat13 said:
I see the package is marked for a 318. Are you building a 360? 360s have a larger main journal. IDK if it matters, but it could be that the main fasteners on the two different engines are different lengths. Can somebody clear that up?
Click to expand...

The 318 has shorter caps than the 340 / 360.
 
Not sure what size these tapped holes in your block are but I would guess 3/8-16, When you say you bottom tapped the holes can you clarify? A flat bottom or bottoming tap is specially ground to remove the imperfect threads that typically remain when a standard tap is used and if you were cutting threads out then I could see another 3/8" of thread engagement in the block which would equate to 3/8" of lost thread height on the stud. As another member mentioned studs or bolts are not supposed to bottom out in their respective thread bores. How much actual thread engagement do you have in the block I would think 5/8" -3/4" would be plenty for a 3/8" stud and if you have more then that just back off the studs and apply some Loctite threadlocker.
 
Used a 1/2-13 bottom tap, same as head bolt threads.

Got my answer from their support line. I need their 6" tray stud kit 81151. My 81182 kit is 4.5" and according to them some, but not all, 318s will take that.
Still hard to believe that will clear the crank.
But with my 2" tall caps and 1-5/8" deep bolt holes I need their kit #81151 with the longer studs.
View attachment 1412720211756.jpg
Hope this will save someone else from the same issue.
 
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