Recent content by 92b

Might of spoke to soon.

I'm surprised by the tone of this thread. Five years ago this would have been filled with red x's and government conspiracy theories then moved to N&P by the moderators by now. Congrats to everyone for keeping it civil.

These are the same concerns people had when making the transition from points to electronic ignition years ago.

Would that be considered a 3/4 race cam?

Post 348 Pistons come with rings, 1/16", 2.050 CH

Thank you. See if timing fixes your idle rpm drop problem and report back what your Idle timing ends up being.

What distributor do you have?

Small block victor?

I would find what the minimum timing it will tolerate at idle first by just by moving the distributor. Make sure the distributor is not adding timing at idle speed through mechanical advance. You could easily add vacuum to the adapter or even the base plate of the carb. Closer to the throttle...

Structural repairs that make a car unsafe maybe. Cosmetic repairs seems complicated. What about fiberglass fender flares, hoods, spoilers or the entire body of a corvette?

I think it's been an interesting conversation. Both sides have made good points. As long as it is a civil, respectful conversation why censor it? If it doesn't remain civil and respectful then censor the offending party.

Yes, seems like they always fail when your trying to start them. lol

He said his box has a start retard.

You could just advance it for a quick Idle test to see if that helps and set it back if it doesn't help. If it does help then go to the trouble of redoing the curve. Don't forget to check the idle mixture.

Same effect with light springs on mechanical advance that are adding timing at and below idle speed. Easy to check with a timing light. What are your cam specs and what is your timing at idle?