Recent content by BblockAbody

I have to agree with most everyone else the new one looks great, good job Madmikeee.

NHRA is no more then 12" of rubber fuel line I believe. You need an axle retention device if your going to run slicks. Along with the neutral safety you have to have a what I think they called a positive Reverse lockout so you cannot shift an auto trans into Reverse while going down the track...

If the Ground lead from the welder is close to where you are welding and the welding circuit does not cross any other electrical paths or your body you should not have any problems. I figured this out when I was welding a Logging truck bunk in the rain few years ago. :blob6:

Hrmmm.... When exactly is it that you can smell the gas fumes? Cold engine at Idle?, Warm engine at Idle? After you shut it down?. I'll be heading out to my local race track today, so I will not be around this weekend. But i'll check the forums Monday. Talk to ya then.

My Duster has a 318 and all I did was recore the original tanks, by doing it this way I was able to go from a three core to a four and the new core has tighter grouping on the tubes and cooling fines. It still has the stock radiator look and all I had to do was trim the bottom of the radiator...

When I said cold, I mean the engine temperature not the weather. 8) If the car is running fine otherwise then I would guess you have a fuel leak somewhere. To check the choke take the air cleaner off and look at the top of the carb there should be a plate on top that blocks some of the airflow...

The cop in the ski mask is most likely an undercover cop and he is probably working other cases, hence the mask so his cover will not be blown. :salute:

We really need more of a discription of what the engine is doing. Such as does the engine lope or load up when its cold? Is the choke opening fully? My gut reaction is that you may have an internal leak in the carb maybe idle circuit dribbling. :dontknow:

This is the route I was going to go with the B block install. http://engine-swaps.com/noframes/home.html I don't see any reason you could not use solid mounts with this kit if neccessary either. Like I said my first 400 going into the car is going to be relatively mild. I don't plan on...

If your not going to "Stomp on it" very often I'd use the rods you already have and spend the money you saved on another aspect of your build maybe High quality rod bolts, magnaflux, shotpeen & balance the rod piston combos with that cash.

Putting A big block into an A body is a big step up from when it was first engineered, mostly the increased weight in the front of the car and the increased torque you are going to subject the unibody too. Like Longgone said, consider the car as a whole package. I'm planning on dropping a 400...

Like Wildcat said its hard to tell by the pics but the crank don't look that bad I've polished up worse then that with crocus (sp) cloth. As long as your bearing crush and clearances are good you should have no problems, the bearing shells need to be pressed into the journals if it just drop...

I Just got finished increasing the timing on my 318 to 10* BTDC and for a mid 70's auto trans 318 stock initial timing is TDC with a 2* variable.

Thanks for the info Moper, And yes eventually I'm going to get my Duster into the Pro Gas bracket. Not sure If I Have the money or balls to get into Comp with it but might try. 8)

The first I have heard of this? And it concerns me as I am currently tearing down 2 400 Blocks to rebuild for the Duster. Do you know what years that the 400's had the thinner walls? Lets see if I can remember.....One engine I have is out of a 72 3/4 Ton truck and the other out of a 73 Newport...