Recent content by Brian Donahue

May I offer a suggestion. The battery/resistor comments are likeliest options. Since you have the MSD coil, for about $200 more via Amazon you can upgrade the whole mess and get an MSD box. It will throw as many volts and amps as the ignition will ever need and it will do so flawlessly. As I...

I'm glad to here you liked them. Mine are non coated. It was a combination of weird circumstances, they've had the inventory, minus drop down flanges for a week. I asked them last Thursday to ship them separate, but the order went out some time today, Finally! Nothing happens fast enough...

Has anyone had any dealings with this company, Schumacher Creative Services 2025 NE 123rd St Seattle, WA 98125? My order is moving along very slowly, parts came in last week, still haven't been shipped. Secondly, are these headers all they are cracked up to be? My choice is because they are...

Thanks, I know they weren't HEI originally. They have something inlace similar to a Mallory system, but it is still running through the ballast which is totally weird as HEI's eliminate that. Thanks very much on the distributor source as I have been trying to find one like this. The carb is...

Thanks, I know HEI is better I just can't grasp the Chrysler method still utilizing the fail point of the ballast resistor. It is going to take me a while to study your information and retrace what wiring the previous owner has in the car now. It is all encased. They do have a Chrysler...

Has anyone had success installing the GM style HEI distributor that doesn't require coil or resistor panel. The distributor would have to be long enough to get past the valve cover. I don't understand why the Chrysler ignition system requires all the extra resistors and coil or boxes. Are...

Thanks, I am sure I will find plenty that will fix this in that suspension, just gotta start somewhere. Waiting to hear from K Dog as well.

I need to rebuild my 1973 440 Duster front suspension and replace the front tires. I just bought the car so I can only speak for what I can see on the car. The current tires are 205/60/R15, and are badly worn on the outside edges, down to the steel belts. The rear tires are 255/60/15...

Does anyone have experience with lowering the front end, with 15" rims? I am wondering about tire size.

So whichever one is right about negative or positive camber, how would you adjust the torsion bars, more or less torsion?

My thoughts are similar. The torsion bars are being used in some fashion to affect body height, making the camber very positive while the car is on the ground.

In the first photo, the car is on the ground, no jack. You can see the camber offset pretty clearly just from that side picture.

I have just the right shop for this work they specialize in classics and the owner who is 80 still manages the shop with his son. I need to put tires on this beast to move it. The outer edges are on steel belts and most shops want to do alignment after tires are purchased. Doesn't sound like...

Negative camber with front end raised