Recent content by bvfs12

Ok. So if these heads don't have bigger ports as some claim and they flow nothing more than a set of "J" or "X" heads. Then why did chrysler make them so different for the 340 and not just install a set of "J" or "X" heads on the T?A challenger's. If one owns a T/A and they are trying to restore...

If one would want to stick with the cast heads would T/A heads more desirable to have than J or X heads if you looking to make power in your motor? Another question is , is there anything else that is different in the T/A heads verses the J and X heads besides the offset rockers/push rods ?

Does anyone know how to tell a long valve or short valve on the T/A cylinder heads ?

Looking for a pair of T/A heads with rockers. Please message me if you have a pair.

I'm looking for a set of T/A heads for purchase. Would you be interested in selling a pair?

Does the 340 TA Challengers have bigger ports on their heads the X or J Heads ? I heard that there's a head termed TA head that have bigger ports and came set up on the 6 pack 340 motors. Can anyone expound on this?

I have a simple question. Is there any differences between the 340 blocks between the 1969-1973 years or are they all the same ? Is any year block better than another ?

I have a simple question. Is there any differences between the 340 blocks between the 1969-1973 years or are they all the same ? Is any year block better than another ?

I do want to chime in here and end this thread. We have finally come to the end of my problem. All planets are aligned and we are in perfect harmony again with my Mopar. It was a very expensive fix. I had 1 smoked battery, 1 toasted alternator, 1 melted amp meter, 2 blown regulators and a bad...

I don't have the other regulators anymore. The regulator is grounded. What should be the normal needle reading on dash cluster amp meter gauge. Should it always be on center at idle and slightly to the charge side when driving down the road? I'm not sure on it's normal profile under driving...

Well I haven't posted in a while and I wanted to make a post as to what I've done since my last one. I've fixed my starting issue by replacing the ignition switch. My car now starts when the car goes to the start position and not to the run position. Problem solved there. I replaced my...

Check to see if you get these readings on your car. I got them on mine. I'd be curious to see if you read the same on yours ! I disconnected my ignition connector on the steering column from the main wiring harness. I place the ignition switch to the 2nd click (Run position) Taking a volt...

I have a 1970 Duster steering column (non automatic) that I'm trying to dissemble. I've taken everything out of the column including the turn signal switch, retaining plate to hold the turn signal switch in, ignition key lamp and the 3 screws that hold the bearing housing to the lock housing. My...

I received the new ignition switch yesterday and confirmed that my old ignition switch that's currently in the car is bad. This is what was causing the car to start in the run position. I'm not sure if this is what was causing my overcharging or if the overcharging caused the ignition switch to...

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