Jet Hot was in business for 30+ years. They've been bought and sold about
5 times in that time and most recently were bought out by a holding company for pennies on the dollar after boning creditors with a 950 MILLION dollar bankruptcy........ They stand behind there work, sometimes, lol...
Certainly, I was just warning others of the inherent issues with that particular option. Yours apparently worked fairly well, but I've seen others that were a complete disaster. Once that coating has been cured and you have an issues, they need to be completely stripped down to bare metal again...
Polished ceramic coatings are NOT a DIY process if you don't have access to a vibratory polisher to finish them properly. Even if you have the ability to thermally clean the headers, blast them with the appropriate media and bake them at 500F 700F for a couple hours. If this material is not...
Not sure in that she mentioned 3 different things. As a rule, traditional "polished" ceramic coatings should NOT be wrapped or covered with shields as it will prevent the coating from dissipating heat. Best case this would result in a significant dulling of the finish. Worst case you'd see...
Wrapping mild steel pipes rarely ends well..... Even ceramic coating them first may not always work..... The pipes condensate and begin to rust fairly quickly. Which means you have to inspect them and likely re-coat them fairly regularly.
Unless your car is a complete show car, only driven an and off a trailer, you NEVER EVER EVER want chrome headers. That ridiculous. They'll turn colors immediately and take a crap after that. Then your faced with the daunting expense or having to find someone that can chem strip the chrome...
Any aluminum polish will work, Mothers, etc. I prefer the Flitz liquid over the others because you can wipe it on and wipe it off much easier than the others that come in a paste version. Also, it doesn't have any noticeable abrasives in it. I would make the abrasive versions a last...
Hey Rod:
Not sure that i'm following with "soft none sticking material". On the contrary, ceramic is generally on the middle / upper end of the hardness scale. I think like 4H + ish. As for it "sticking", if the coating is applied "properly" it will have a nearly metallurgical bond with...
That would be great. I'd be curious to see how it looks after a bit of use. Unfortunately, most Bright Ceramic doesn't hold up very well in hot side turbo apps. It's unfortunate your coater didn't warn you about that. If its strictly race you may get away with it a bit longer though.
Hey 67:
Unless this is a show car that will not be run, chrome and or nickel plating is a waste of time and money for ANY exhaust product. Ceramic Coating is much more appropriate and will offer performance and thermal advantages.
With Ceramic Coating you'll need to determine usage as well...