Just picked up this 318 roller long block, and have never seen this I cast into anything before. Has 714 heads. Supposedly out of a ram truck, but unsure. I’ve heard of the international harvester castings but those look different. Also personally never seen a -23 before or a number that high...
Finally got it to where I’m comfortable with the fit. The cure was a moroso solid mount cut to fit just like the rubber, a tiny more clearance grinding on the top side of the k member hole, along with grinding a hair off the relief cap. Plenty of room now just leveled the engine again.
A solid on the driver side, with that much cut from the k member, do you think any damage can be done? 470 with estimated 500-550 ft lbs? Was thinking torque strap to share the load.
Melling standard here also, I can only imagine fitting a hp pump. I ordered some Moroso solid biscuits to see how that works, maybe just solid in the driver side. Going to shave a 1/16” off the relief bolt. Still will eventually add a Torque strap regardless. Should be enough clearance at that...
Not really part of the interference, that is just the brace I guess on the front of the factory mount area. It’s is definitely a v8 k frame wasn’t a /6. I’d say the engine needs to come forward but all measurements say everything is correct.
Haven’t tried swapping brackets side to side but the...
Rusty you maybe right? Here’s a few photos farther out, anything look out of place, maybe wrong block brackets?
First photo is pass side, 2 and 3 drivers mount, 4 crossmember all loose on trans
Here’s where I am, engine is level and seems to be now best fit yet. Too close for comfort? I figure it should pull away under load? Torque strap of some kind needed?
I enlarged the hole in the bracket to slide the biscuit back a bit, and same on the passenger side to slide it opposite. That helped but the relief valve head is still maybe a 1/16” away from the k member. Tried moving the trans all around to get a little extra room but the 16th is all I could...
Definitely have the right kit. Cut mount is in correct spot. Angled mount in red and plane of rear oil pump in red. Right now I’m thinking hogging out hole in block bracket, towards rear to gain space between oil pump and sliver of k member left by mount.
A little, but it doesn’t improve clearance much. After turning looks less than 1/8” movement. I saw on another post someone had Schumacher measurements I haven’t seen before. I’ll check those and see what I get.
I wonder why the pump is so tight to the mount, every photo I’ve seen from cars on...
Searched on this forum and elsewhere but haven’t seen anyone have it fit this close/bad. I did trial fit the engine to the k frame multiple times, and ended up trimming a lot for the oil pump per the instructions. The problem is the back of the oil pump is touching the mount or near touching...
On the fence with this, i’ve read about these gains I just don’t have anyone local that I know of I’d trust to get the real 15-20 cfm.
Near Cleveland if anyone has recommendations. Guess I’d be willing to ship also. I’d love to do it myself if possible but am uneducated at exactly what would...
I know it’s been beat to death, and I’ve read andyF’s book, and searched on multiple forums. Just looking for further advice as my build isn’t best combo of parts, scrounged and bought what I could get deals on.
Duster street strip - 11.50 or slower don’t want a cage at this point.
Likely 3.91...
I used the cam that came out, and before the bearings were replaced they all had good wear patterns so at least in this block the cam fit before… update after a light cleaning with atf soaked scotchbrite maroon they look totally different. Literally a few wipes and it was nearly gone. The...
It’s at least a relief to see you grooved the cam same as I did. At first I turned it by ratchet, then as the new bearings eased up I used the drill. Spins nice now, I’ll touch the bearings up with some cheap scotchbrite tomorrow and see how they look. I work at a body shop so I’ll avoid the 3m...