Recent content by FixItAll

The one that runs between the vent frame and the A-pillar. Surprisingly not a lot of information on this area... Ill post some pictures myself when I get a chance, if that will help anyone visualize.

Does anyone have pictures of the location and orientation for the aux vent window seals? My research says they go open side faced inward and the top mounts where the vent window curves to meet the roof, is this correct? Please post any pictures if possible, I'd like to get this right the...

That does sound more approachable when you consider the math (100 at $100 a piece) but the hard part is the initial investment.... I wish I was in a better position to consider being an investor in this. I wonder if one of the vendors would be interested in footing the bill in lieu of doing the...

Just some thoughts... Maybe use one of those laser scanners to get a CAD model then have a 5 axis CNC machine make a two part "mold" out of something hard like stainless. Use the CAD model to back engineer a flat that gets all of the holes pressed out first then use your mold in a home shop...

Eh its like 5-600 vs 10 for my car and personally not replacing mine immediately because there is so much else to do already. My Dart was parked for like 10 years and its REAL original so itll get replaced once its daily driver status. No point in having a new top on a car that needs floorboards...

I might go that direction but honestly I just need to get the car moving and shaking before it gets cold. Im paying waaaay too much on daycare right now so $100 to keep the fluid inside is a hard ask this month. On another note, Ill prob go with these guys for top replacement near term...

I used the gorilla glue version of flex tape on mine, and it works fine... The only issue has been with the heat the tape has softened a little and slid out 1/16" on each side but for $10 how much can you ask of it? It keeps water out of the car :D

Does anyone know how much pressure output for the convertible pumps? Ive sprung a leak and Im going to try and replace the lines myself... I can get parts from McMaster or MSC but I dont want to underestimate and get connectors that could blow off. That would be a hell of a mess at full tilt lol.

Not to sound like a jerk but why not copy what you’re missing in that picture? You could prob buy 14-16 gauge carbon steel and use an angle grinder to cut the parts out. Just get it working and find a better looking part later if you really need it. Just my thoughts…

I wouldn’t doubt the salt and extended sit is what made it all happen. It’s amazing how a car will rot faster when it doesn’t get driven.

Right, I’ll have to do some cost benefit once I get it cut open and sandblast everything. I suppose what you’re implying is that your frame rail steel was just too thin once you were able to look inside? This car wasn’t my first choice for sure, but I couldn’t turn down a cheap convertible!

You are right, I was confused and thought we were referring to the spot where the frame rail meets the crossmember. I might be in the clear on frame rot based on what I can see in these photos but he’s def right about having to cut away the pan at the rocker. How much cutting can I do on the...

Oh boy, that’s not ideal if you’re right but I can see the frame rotting on the inside. The underside of the pans is surprisingly clean so that means there’s bound to be rust inside some crevasse. When you say anchors what are you referring to? Sockets?

Very smart! I get it now, sounds like an analog way to make 3D stencil. Much better than hammering and eye balling the results. Thanks for the idea, I’d never have figured that out.

Exactly on the logic regarding rust spread, I’m sure the edge of it goes down into the body at least an inch or two radius. As for the layered tape idea, are you talking about cutting through the tape and pulling it from scrap piece to layer it over the new donor metal? There’s the money shot...