Recent content by goldduster318

The newer caps with the vents like this - you need some air space for expansion to happen. You don't need the fluid all the way up to the bottom of the openings for the caps. You want at least 10% of the total reservoir volume for air space. But yes, the vents toward the back is very...

Yeah, I can jack up my very well used/high mileage car and the doors open and shut exactly the same and the gaps do not change whatsoever. One of these years I need to actually rebuild the hinges so it's right and fix the solidly welded striker but this car is in the 260-270k mile range as far...

Trust me, there's probably few people on here that did more projects that take patience and pre-planning - MPFI, 6-speed swap, Classic auto air, etc... this one just doesn't seem worth the extra effort compared to the other options. Most of the other frame connectors you just pop the front...

Subframe connectors are great. I don't know that I would suggest putting on the USCT ones unless you're either a masochist or have the car totally blown apart. I have the hotchkis ones and it really stiffened up the car. The door used to rattle on bumps and no longer did immediately after...

Most cars you would do a 180 stat and turn the fan on at 195 or 200. That is not hot enough to do anything you'd need to worry about.

I have the same setup you do, I didn't charge it yet, but mine has held vacuum since November so I don't expect problems so long as the compressor can build pressure I did drive the car with the belts setup this way and they seem fine -> I didn't turn a ton of RPM yet but it made a 20 mile...

Sorry I forgot to mention I made a bracket for that tube to hold it up, but it seems like the hot ticket. If anyone needs one, let me know and I'll get in contact with my friend about pricing/availability.

I cut and modded my glovebox - the JB Weld Plastic Weld worked good, but I got some runs. Not a big deal since you never see it anyway. For some reason I had to cut the upper corner because of the pinch weld on my car...This is a later plastic glovebox. Now it fits fine. Interior is back...

I think it was last year when it aired first on Motortrend+, no clue where it was made. Like I said, my shorter ones are USA and are from last year so who knows. It's possible the China made WIX is still made well. Depends on what they did to make them, if its all the same spec and the same QC...

I gotta be honest, there are some holes in that test or the results. Pressure and flow should have an inverse relationship because with only one variable, the flow should be lower with a higher oil pressure. It's quite possible that it could be a 10 micron filter, the higher pressure would...

WIX and Purolator are both owned by Mann and Hummel. Unless something changed, the Motocraft filters were Purolators -> essentially a custom case and a filter somewhere between a standard Purolator and a PurolatorOne. I would use any WIX or Purolator oil filter or any house branded one. I...

X pipe should be quieter, though the mufflers you choose are worth something here as well. If you use the turndowns instead of extending the tips past the bumper, it will drone a lot more. My Duster has the 2.5" TTI x-pipe system and the Dynomax Ultra-Flos. I would imagine the super turbos are...

Just had a look with the 3D printed tube my friend made for me, it was made in 2 pieces and glued together: The idea is that it goes above the gage cluster. I am probably just going to double sided tape it to the dash frame. The gage cluster did fit in my case, but nothing in this car is...

I don't see why it matters if you want to connect it to the starter relay instead of to the battery in that case. It's a wire with a fuse and some terminals.

Why not just do this? You can always just subsitiute the maxifuse, though the fuse is protecting the wire anyway. Painless Performance 30700 Painless Performance Alternator Wiring Kits | Summit Racing I have one on my Duster. My fuse is close to the battery.