Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
fabbed up brakes with parts house with prefabbed brake lines & connected them with double female brass connectors. several are leaking. what do I do next? thank you for your time. RR
leaking brake lines
- Thread starter Rapid Robert
- Start date
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4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Get rid of connectors and run 1 pc.line.
As stated get prefabbed oem fit brake lines.
But ... If thats not in the cards... Loosen and tighten them several times.
Just making sure, you are using double flare fittings at every joint?
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
double flare fittings. I will loosen/tighten em several times. if no go I will get a length of line an double flare it
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
What material are you using? Steel, NiCop, stainless...?
Sometimes stainless can be a pain to get it to seat.
Sometimes stainless can be a pain to get it to seat.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
steel
You might want to try using copper flare gaskets.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
What did you connect? 2 lines to make one?
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
^^^ yes several times. I saw a utube vid on those washers & they annealed em with a propane torch to soften even further
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Run Nicop easy to bend and rated for brake psi, you are NEVER to "link" 2 lines to make one.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
OK nicop it will be
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I've found putting Teflon tape on the threads of the flate-nut, acts as a friction reducer to allow you to actually tighten the fittings more cuz the friction between the threads aren't fighting you. (You usually round the nut just before it's tight enuff)
Aircraft and refrigeration use similar.
Remove visible Teflon tape cuz everyone will remind you Teflon tape isn't necessary on flare fittings,
Riiiight ! !
Good luck
Aircraft and refrigeration use similar.
Remove visible Teflon tape cuz everyone will remind you Teflon tape isn't necessary on flare fittings,
Riiiight ! !
Good luck
Or copper flare gaskets like several of us recommended in your other thread when you were asking for advice. But whatever.
They make a 20' coil of soft bending 3/16" brake line that you can buy from your parts store for this very reason.
Much easier to work with than the old stock 4' lines they have for sale.
☆☆☆☆☆
Much easier to work with than the old stock 4' lines they have for sale.
☆☆☆☆☆
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Try snugging them up more. If that doesn't work, loosen them then tighten them up again like others mentioned. If that doesn't work, tighten more. If that doesn't work, try those copper flare gaskets. Either one of those methods should work. Can't believe others are recommending making new lines over a couple leaky fittings.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
I recommended new lines because he has patched pieces together and that isn't recommended.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
good dynamite info! I will post how it goes... RR
When making double flares- don't quite finish the second flare. This allows it to find it's own "seat" when you tighten it.
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
You see unions, sometimes in multiple spots in the same line, in brand new cars. Having the unions isn't bad so long as they seal.
It's absolutely paramount that the flared part was aligned to the cone. After that you just tighten the crap out of them. Usually the flare would have to be really bad if you can't get it to seal at all. If the union's cone got smashed it may have to be replaced.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
FWIW, about 30 years ago, when I restored my 69 Barracuda for the first time, I did brake lines from front to rear with 4 foot sections of steel brake line tubing and brass connectors from a car parts store. I was told that was not a good idea. They have worked great for 30 years with no leaks.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
It'll be awhile till I get over there but I will post how it turns out. thanks again everybody for the excellent tech. RR
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